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MARIANI’S Virtual Gourmet January
25, 2026
NEWSLETTER Founded in 1996 ARCHIVE ![]() Alec Guinness and John Mills in "Great Expectations" (1946)
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THIS WEEK
DINING OUT AND STAYING IN ZURICH By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER LEX YARD By John Mariani THE BISON CHAPTER SEVEN By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR THE REMARKABLE BARGAIN THAT IS SAUTERNES By John Mariani ❖❖❖
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Every great city of the 21st century
needs hotels and restaurants with equal amounts
traditional character and true modernity, which
is certainly the case with Zürich, both in the
older and newer parts of the city.
Very different in style and every bit as
modern as any hotel in Europe, the Park Hyatt focuses
on a contemporary approach based on efficient and
congenial service by a young lobby staff imbued
with a mission to go beyond all the requisite
answers to business and tourist queries along with
personal insight into what is going on in Zürich,
from the new restaurants to the arts and
entertainments. Requisite to a visit to Zürich
is a traditional meal of Swiss raclette, and the Raclette
Factory (Rindemarkt
1), ❖❖❖
NEW YORK CORNER
LEX
YARD 550 Lexington Avenue 212-355-3000 ![]() Peacock Alley
It
took a while––eight years––for the restoration
of the legendary Waldorf Astoria to be
completed, but the best thing about it, thanks
to architects Skidmore, Owings & Merrill and
interior designer Pierre-Yves Rochon, is that
anyone who recalls the interiors with fondness
will be delighted to find the transformation has
maintained all the elements that made it the
most spectacular hotel in New York when it
opened in 1931. Now, with everything given a
finer tone and better lighting, it is all
polished to a dazzling sheen, not least the art
deco bas-relief figures on the elevator doors.
The
hotel once had 1,400 guest rooms, but the
conversion now provides 375 guest rooms and 372
private residences (none of which I’ve seen). There
are now three restaurant options, including
Peacock Alley with a lounge menu, and the
Japanese Yoshoku, while the main dining room
that was once Oscar’s, is now set on two levels:
Downstairs is the more casual bar, while up a
daunting flight of stairs is the main dining
room, It's a comfortable room,
with roomy booths and banquettes, though, with
220 seats, it does have the spread-out ambience
of a hotel dining room serving breakfast , lunch
and dinner.
“Helmed by Chef
Michael
Anthony,” who is also maintaining his long-term
position at
Gramercy Tavern, Lex Yard offers a kind of
modern continental menu that offers something
for everyone, including a good number of
vegetable options, including appetizers like
roasted sweet potatoes with sumac yogurt and
citrus, and veggie sliders of Napa cabbage slaw
and pickled peppers. The menu is both a la carte
or as a fixed price four-course option. Among
the chilled starters are oysters and crudi, as
well as Long Island Royal red shrimp as plump as
langoustines and very meaty. Butternut squash
soup with turnips, chickpeas and carrots made
for a warming winter dish.
As
everywhere in New York, Lex Yard offers pastas,
three of them, and I liked the mushroom
tagliatelle with bacon, black pepper and a sauce
made with Vermont Alpha Tolman cheese.
There are three
seafood items, and the sweet meat of
Arctic char was graced with shelling beans,
spigarello broccoli and peppers. I
felt the Elysian Fields lamb braised shoulder
with Thumbelina carrots, turnips and a dose of
harissa could have used more of the last
ingredient to perk up the sauce. Golden Chicken
came with parsnips, cipollini onions, and
excellent shoestring potatoes, and, of course,
there is a Lex burger piled high with cheddar
cheese, caramelized onion and Thousand Island
dressing on a seated bun.
Lex Yard’s wine list is currently
dominated by very high-priced wines with most
well above $100 and very few under. I asked
about this
imbalance and was told the management is,
in fact, taking another look at the list. I had expected the menu at
Lex Yard to be a bit more exciting, even daring,
given the elegance and luxury of the
restoration. As of now, you’ll eat well enough
but surprise is not among the menu’s virtues. It
could use a good deal more dazzle than just
putting caviar on the lobster roll.
Open for breakfast
and lunch; Sat. & Sun. for brunch;
Tues.-Sat. for dinner. ❖❖❖
THE
BISON ![]()
“Donny Deutsch. Who’s’ this?”
NOTES
FROM THE WINE CELLAR
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I seriously doubt that most
wine lovers could name a single
Sauternes other than the famous
Château d’Yquem. A handful of
connoisseurs might be familiar with a
few other First Growth Sauternes like
Suduiraut, La Tour Blanche, and
Rieussec, but Yquem’s status—and
price—has long eclipsed all other of
these intensely sweet Bordeaux dessert
wines.
All these dessert wines—which the
British call “pudding wines”—undergo the
tricky process of achieving their
elegant sweetness by being attacked by a
fungus called Botrytis cinerea
that literally rots the grapes,
devouring five-sixths of their acids and
one-third of its sugars.
Yield is always very low. Many
grapes become too rotted and are left to
wither away. The
time-consuming, careful, selective
picking of the grapes means only a
portion of them will actually go to the
winery, and the best Sauternes producers
make only 60-90 cases per acre a year,
whereas the average winery in Médoc
makes about 220 or more. There are also
years when the entire crop might be lost
to rot. The distinction
between Sauternes and many other dessert
wines, including those “late harvest”
wines attacked by botrytis, is that the
predominant Semillon grape used in
Sauternes achieves a complexity and
depth of acid-sugar balance hard to
achieve elsewhere in the world.
I don’t know many people who
drink Sauternes on a regular basis, and
some drink it on its own. The problem
with most desserts is that “dessert
wines” compete with the sweet, cloying
flavors of, say, a chocolate cake or
apple tart. Baron Philippe de Rothschild
(left) insisted that only ice
cold Yquem be served with foie gras,
because the rich fattiness of the liver
is buoyed by the luscious sweetness of
the wine. Roquefort cheese is considered
a classic marriage because the sweetness
balances the saltiness of the cheese.
After World War II and up through
the 1980s La Tour Blanche was owned by
an agricultural college and
tasted homogenized year after year. Now,
with more Sémillon in the blend and
sensible use of new oak, the wine now
shows a great deal of bright fruitiness
and layers of botrytis flavors.
Château Caillou, from the Barsac
section, is a Second Growth (whose owner
uses the gravel stone called cailloux
to pave tennis courts), and
it is a lighter, delicate style that
will indeed go well with a simple white
or yellow cake or butter cookies at a
meal’s end. The estate’s Private Cuvée
is their top of the line.
Château Doisy-Daëne is
a beauty, vinified in stainless steel
and aged in new oak, with lots of floral
and aromatic notes in the bouquet, then
a pretty burst of citrus mixed with
sweet orange flavors. A
sheer delight.
First growth Château Climens,
owned by Bérenice Lurton, is
always a bargain, often considered a
rival of Yquem at one-third the price.
It’s a Barsac that sleeps for two years
in oak, acquiring strata of toasty
flavors along finely tuned acids and
creamy sweetness.
Château Suduiraut and Château
Coutet, both often mentioned in the same
league as Yquem, are actually quite
different from one another. The
Suduiraut, now owned by AXA Millésimes,
has
a luscious but never cloying intensity
underpinned by a backbone of acid and
oak, ideal as a dessert by itself. The
Coutet 2001 has more spiciness up front
and on the finish, which makes it ideal
for fruit tarts or blue cheeses, but its
Cuvée Madame, which comprises but five
percent of the production, is
exceptional.
All Sauternes are
sipped in small quantities—a half-bottle
is usually sufficient for four people. But
if Yquem’s reputation and rarity keeps
it among the world’s most expensive
wines for only celebratory occasions,
the availability and modest price of so
many other great Sauternes allows anyone
to enjoy them with friends throughout
the year. ❖❖❖
"If there’s a
bowl of Lactaid set out at food establishments, and
yes, sometimes there is, then I see the promise of
milky superabundance on the horizon like some cosmic
event, a pleasure so irresistible, so devastating,
it can only be delivered with a warning."—Tejal Rao,
"This
California
Restaurant Is Making Magic With Cheese and Masa" NY
Times (12/25).
❖❖❖ Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven
(21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and
for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance,
inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find
this to be a treasured favorite. The story
concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and
their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their
barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise.
But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and
the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring
his master back from the edge of despair. WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
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