MARIANI’S

 

Virtual Gourmet

March 8, 2026                                                                                            NEWSLETTER

 


Founded in 1996 

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Oyster Shuckers, 1937



THIS WEEK

SMALL IN SIZE AND VERY WEALTHY, BRONXVILLE, NY,
HAS A RICH RESTAURANT SCENE

By John Mariani



THE BISON
CHAPTER  THIRTEEN

By John Mariani

NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR

                                        California Wineries Have for Years Promised
                                       More Finesse in Their Cabernet Sauvignons.
                                                Have They Abandoned That Goal?


By John Mariani



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           SMALL IN SIZE AND VERY WEALTHY,           
      BRONXVILLE, NY, HAS A RICH     
   RESTAURANT SCENE


By John Mariani

 

 

    The natives of the Westchester suburb of Bronxville (35 minutes from, Grand Central) happily accept its moniker as the “Golden Square Mile,” given its exceptionally affluent population of just 6,500 with an average home income of $430,000. They do, though, bristle when people erroneously believe it is part of the Bronx.  (The name comes instead from the Bronx River that flows through it.)

   For a village so small it does have a remarkable number of restaurants of every stripe, from  a Dumpling & Noodle eatery and The Taco Project to a delightful fifties-style Diner (left).  Pete’s Park Place Tavern has been a burger-and-brew favorite for generations of Sarah Lawrence and Iona University (formerly Concordia College) students, and you could film an episode of “The Real Housewives of Bronxville” about those  decked-out  ladies under a white tent toying with a Cobb salad at Underhills Crossing. There's also the requisite sushi restaurant, Hai-Ku and Pan-Asian,  Wild Ginger.

As throughout the county Bronxville is home to several Italian restaurants, from the lively Il Bacio and Rosie’s Bistro Italiano to the shadowy Scalini Osteria and Tredici Social, along with three pizzerias.

    A brand new addition is La Chitarra (7 Pondfield Road), which is part fresh pasta shop (good but very expensive) and part snug trattoria, opened by Randy Restiano, formerly of Gramercy Tavern, and his cousin Peter Diana, along with chef John Poiarkoff.  The shop opens onto the restaurant, with a marble five-seat bar, a wall of wines from a list of 200 mostly Italian labels, blue-and-white patterned floor, sconces and rattan bentwood chairs.

    La Chitarra's menu goes considerably beyond the standard Italian fare with seasonal specials, including wild mushrooms foraged from the Hudson Valley, combined with pastas and risotto. The restaurant’s name references the Abruzzese pasta shape spaghetti alla chitarra, combined with San Marzano tomatoes, parmigiano and basil. 

You’ll be brought some crusty country bread, so there is no real reason  to order focaccia at $9. Slickly grilled octopus comes with potatoes, the mild bite of capers, olives and tomatoes. There’s a slightly heavy hand with salt in some dishes, but if you love roast chicken, La Chitarra's is one of the better versions around.


La Casa (7 Pondfield Road) is located in the former Gramatan Hotel once a retreat for fleeting assignations by Broadway actors, and it has long served a slightly elevated style of Mexican food. Opened by Spencer Pingel (with a newer Casa in Purchase, NY) the space is composed of a glittering bar and large dining room very popular with families.

    There are plenty of appetizers deserving of the name, including excellent octopus grilled on the plancha; a well-seasoned guacamole and warm chips; a ceviche of the day’s catch in lime with cilantro; wonderfully addictive potatoes with spicy chorizo sausage,  beans, lettuce and rice. There are ten taco selections––the carnitas and the al pastor with pineapple were very good,  six quesadillas and a well-rendered, very hearty  posole stew chock full of hominy, pork and cabbage.  The enchiladas verdes were fairly  bland, and no one’s going to find the food here excessively hot with searing chiles. You’ll have to ask for hot sauce, and you pay for rice.





    Pingel also just opened a companion restaurant next door  called Ma Maison (7 Pondfield Road), the first French restaurant in the village in ages. (The first French restaurant I ever ate in––back in the ‘70s––was Le Bon Viveur in Bronxville, now called The Urban Hamlet.)  Ma Maison has been a dream of Pingel since spending three years in Paris, and when the space turned up, it was logical to combine the two restaurants’ hotel-size kitchens into one.

    Straw lamps hang from the ceiling in a main dining room set with banquettes and bistro chairs,  scones, prints of fruits, with fin de siècle French posters and subway tiles behind a copper-topped bar to the rear. Another smaller room painted gray is more cramped than cozy.

    The opening menu is quite short––five starters, six entrees––full of bistro classics like a smooth country-style pâté maison (right) with gherkins and mustard sauce;, an onion soup (left) that needed a more deeply flavorful broth of caramelized onions; tender mussels in white wine with crisp frites; and two double-cut lamb chops, perfectly cooked. For dessert there’s crème brûleé and apple Tarte Tatin.

    The wine list is surprisingly short and composed of rather dull bottlings. I suspect this will improve as Ma Maison gets its footing. I also trust that the menu will rise above the expected cliches like grilled salmon and endive salad, for French bistro fare is so much more extensive. Perhaps Pringale is testing the waters of a conservative clientele, but it would be nice to see more Parisian dishes like wintry cassoulet, blanquette de veau and île flottante.

 

 






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THE BISON
By John Mariani



                       Donald Trump, Melania Knauss, Jeffrey Epstein and Ghislaine Maxwell



CHAPTER THIRTEEN


    "I appreciate your seeing me, Mr. Cherico,” said Katie upon meeting the IRS agent, who was wearing a yellow tennis shirt, chinos and deck shoes. He had the appearance of a bureaucrat shy of retirement. Gray, thinning hair in a comb-over, paunchy, a slightly weary look and a forced smile.
         “I’m told you know Terry Rush,” he said. “Good cop.”
         “Actually I don’t but a mutual friend does and helped set up this meeting.”
         “The guy you go on all these adventures with?”
         “Uh, yeah. Same guy. His name is David Greco. You’ve read my articles?”
         “I read the one about Al Capone, because, as you know, it was our office that put him in prison.”
         Katie thought he was trying to sound as if it was this shabby little office in Palm Beach that finally brought the mobster to justice sixty years ago. She wasn’t going to humor him, and asked, “Terry Rush and Al  Barber from the FBI said you might be able to throw some light on Jeremy Epstein’s subterfuge.”
         “You mean his sex parties? I haven’t a clue what goes on inside his walls. I’m only interested on whether he’s a tax felon or not.”
         “Is he?”
         Cherico leaned back in his swivel chair.
         “Didn’t Rush or Barber say I can’t talk about an ongoing case?”
         Katie nodded  and raised her eyebrows, then went silent, the reporter’s trick for making a subject feel ill at ease and want to tell her something.
         Cherico cleared his throat and said, “I can only say that we are pursuing an investigation into Mr. Epstein’s taxes, which we wouldn’t be doing if there was no evidence of fraud.”
         “By ‛pursuing’ you mean it’s an actual open case?”
         Cherico nodded twice but said nothing.
         “So I’m assuming that this might well involve his involvement with banks in the Caribbean?”
          Another nod.
         “And his business deductions for his parties?”
         Another nod and Katie realized that’s how Cherico would indicate what he could not reveal verbally.
         “And you might also be looking into where his money comes from?”
         “I can tell you, because it’s been reported, that his investment business took a huge hit a few years ago with the collapse of that Ponzi scheme with Tower Financial, which lost something like $450 million, yet he seemed to walk away free and clear and was back in the money within the year.”
         “Let me ask you this,” she said. “Do guys this rich get audited every year?”
         “Not all of them. They have extremely capable—let’s make that ‛creative’—lawyers and accountants who file in bulk year round. The IRS only has so many agents.”
         “And you’re one of the most persistent?”
         Now it was Cherico’s time to pause. Then, “I do my job wherever it takes me.”
         “You enjoy your work, then?”
         “It’s a pretty good feeling when you catch the crooks. When you don’t, you just go on to the next file. Anyway, I’ll be retiring next year.”
         “Is that enough time to catch a crook like Epstein?” asked Katie.
         “What with the local police and the FBI looking at him and with us coordinating where it’s of mutual benefit, I think Epstein should be very worried these days.”
         “Well, the local police seem interested only in the sex trafficking, aren’t they?”
         “If it’s trafficking, someone’s paying or making money illegally, so that’s something we’d look at.”
         Cherico glanced at the clock.
         “Ah, time for me to get home for the weekend. My wife and I are having a barbecue with some people coming over. I’m the cook.”
         Katie thought, “Why am I not surprised?”  and thanked him for his time. “You’re helping bring things together for me, Mr. Cherico.”
         “It is a complicated case,” he said. “If you can keep my name out of it, I’d appreciate it. If not. . .”  He waved his hand and got up to shake hers.     

 

         In order to find out what went on at Epstein’s parties, Katie knew she needed to find people who had attended them, some, perhaps, against their will.  She figured Ramona Sanchez would be her best bet, so she asked David to contact her in Miami.
         “I think she’d be eager to speak with you, Katie,” he said. “She gave me a couple of names of big wigs like Prince Andrew and Donald Trump—can you  believe that? —but she’s not going to give us the names of her own clients or the real names of the girls she sent to Epstein. I do think she might tell you how to contact those underage girls she’s so concerned about, assuming she knows who they are.”
         “If it’s true it’s really despicable,” said Katie. “I’m thinking that that’s really the story I’m after, like when we spoke to those poor women who’d been imprisoned in the Magdalene Laundries.”
         Katie was referring to a prior story she’d covered with David in Dublin, where the Magdalene Laundries were hothouses run by the Catholic church until the mid-1990s to take in prostitutes and girls pregnant out of wedlock where they were brutalized and sexually abused by both nuns and priests.
         “Is this a McClure’s story?” asked David.
         “It is if it’s part of a larger corruption involving people like Prince Andrew, finance guys and national politicians. Merely giving out a list of the attendees might be shocking but the fact these girls are illegally procured for men who are supposed to abhor such things is where the story goes further into how power operates and thrives off favors. That’s a story Alan might well go for. So, let’s go see Ramona.”
         David called Sanchez and was not entirely surprised how quickly she agreed to another meeting the next day, yet again at the Versailles.
        Meanwhile Katie and David had dinner at what claimed to be the “oldest steakhouse in Florida,” Ockeechobee Steakhouse, opened in 1947 as a drive-in in West Palm Beach and evolved into an upscale family owned restaurant set within a squat nondescript one-story building with  stone façade, lantern lights and shingled roof.  Inside it was low-lighted, with a salad bar, dark brown tufted booths, dark brown wainscoting and dark brown tables.
        Katie and David looked at the menu and he said, “When in  Rome, go whole hog, or in this case eat like a Floridian.” The menu item descriptions had claims attached: “Colossal shrimp with our famous garlic  butter”; “Famous ‘Old Florida’ crabcake”; a bone-in ribeye—“what steak tastes like in heaven.” All of which David ordered, saying, “My treat. So you want to try a caipirhiña?”
    “Not my favorite,” said Katie, “but if it’s good enough for Ramona, it’s good enough for me.”
    The meal was a good break from the day’s work, and the couple did not brainstorm about the connections of the investigations and agreed to go over some questions for Sanchez while they drove down to Miami the next day.  They skipped dessert and coffee, returned to the hotel and agreed to meet at eight AM. 
    Katie had brought her new laptop, so she looked up information on Prince Andrew. As the third child and second son of
Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh, Andrew was eighth in the line of succession to the British throne. He dutifully served in the Royal Navy as a helicopter pilot and instructor, and during the Falklands War, he flew on multiple missions.
    In 1986, he 
married Sarah Ferguson with whom he had two daughters, Princess Beatrice and Princess Eugenie. The couple separated in 1992 and divorced in 1996, with Ferguson receiving £350,000 in cash, £500,000 from the Queen to buy a house for herself and the children, and a monthly allowance.

  As Duke of York, he served as the UK's Special Representative for International Trade and Investment, but his own sources of income beyond the Royal dole were always questionable, as when he paid £18 million for a Swiss chalet in Verbier with help from a mysterious benefactor.

The British press first linked the Prince with Jeffrey Epstein in February 1999, their meeting arranged through Ghislaine Maxwell, flying on Epstein’s private Gulfstream jet to his Little St. James island. A year later both Epstein and Maxwell (as an uninvited “plus one”) were invited to a star-studded guest  at a Windsor Castle party called the Dance of the Decades, hosted by the Queen.

In December 2000 Andrew threw  a surprise birthday party at Sandringham, the Queen's estate in Norfolk, for Maxwell, with Epstein among the guests, which Andrew told the BBC was a "straightforward shooting weekend."

         By then Epstein was publicly boasting that the Prince was his “best friend,” flying off together with Maxwell on trips to Florida and Thailand, and that, according to an Evening Standard report, Epstein had joined the Prince on five such occasions over the previous 12 months. Andrew told the BBC that he used to see Epstein a “maximum of three times a year” but confirmed he had been on his private plane, stayed at his private island and stayed at his homes in Palm Beach and New York. It also came to light that Andrew had arranged in secret to have Epstein pay off £15,000 of Sarah Ferguson’s debts.

         Katie lay back on her bed, telling herself this story was, quoting Alice in Wonderland, “curiouser and curiouser.” The caipirhiña and the red wine from dinner sent her straight to sleep.

 

 


 
© John Mariani, 2024









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NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR


California Wineries Have for Years Promised More Finesse in Their Cabernet Sauvignons. Have They Abandoned That Goal?

 

By John Mariani

The Judgment of Paris, 1976

 

    Back in the 1970s when the California wine industry was starting to simmer with labels like Robert Mondavi, Stag’s leap Cellars, Chateau Montelena, Beaulieu,  Heitz Cellars and others they made headlines for what were called “blockbuster Cabs”––most famously at the 1976  Judgment of Paris blind tasting where Californian Cabernet Sauvignons beat out famous French Bordeaux. At that moment Napa Valley wines had broken through and were no longer considered pale shadows of French counterparts.

    Back then Napa Cabs were usually made from 100% Cab. As a result they had bigger body and more tannin, unlike in Bordeaux where they blend in other grapes like Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot to achieve complexity and equilibrium among fruit, acid and tannins.

    To boot, the emerging U.S. wine media, led  by Robert Parker (below) in his Wine Advocate newsletter, hailed these hefty, fruit-driven wines with scores in the high 90s out of 100. Rightly, the French complained that Cal Cabs were out of balance and drunk right off the wine store shelf, without benefit of aging to mellow them out. Yet the big, bold Napa wines were the ones people bought and paid high prices for.

    Many wine lovers, myself included, thought these wines were indeed one-dimensional monsters that, as one sommelier giddily told me, “will blow your doors off.” I was sniffed at by one wine California wine writer who said, “You have an East Coast palate, and that’s why you can’t enjoy West Coast wines.”

    Aside from their lack of finesse, they were also high in alcohol at 14.5% and getting higher all the time. Almost in secret, however, many Napa vintners were aware that their wines lacked balance and refinement, but in 1988 a group formed the Meritage Association, whose members sought to develop wines that had more complexity than traditional California varietals, to be achieved by blending in classic Bordeaux varieties. Such wines needed to be limited in production to no more than twenty-five thousand cases from each vintage by a single winery.

   At first their colleagues scoffed at the whole idea, but gradually it took hold, and wineries both in and out of the Association began insisting in the media that it was now their aim to produce more nuanced Cabs that the blended varietals helped add to, so that by 2000, few Napa Cabs were any longer 100% of that varietal. A few still are, including Colgin, Neal Family, Napa Cellars and others.

    But now, a quarter century later, Napa vintners seemed to forget their promise to make better, more mellow Cabs. What I find is that many of the most touted labels are as full-bodied and immature as ever with alcohol levels going to 16% in some bottlings like Cornerstone Cellars Benchmark and Amulet Estate “The Dark Ark.” By comparison, most Bordeaux reds begin at 13.5% and rarely go to 14.5%.

Alcohol in and of itself does not make a Cab a monster, but the reasons for it can range from a warming climate to the Napa tendency to pick grapes later in the season, when they have more sugar that turns into more alcohol. Sugar content creates “phenolic ripeness,” and Napa producers want that bigger, hotter, fruitier, in-your-face style gained by picking late. So you may not taste the alcohol but you’ll feel it. As Karen MacNeil (below), author of The Wine Bible, said recently, “A wine may mellow in the glass, but the alcohol does not go away.” Nor will it even if the wine is kept in a cellar to age, as is done in Bordeaux.

    The over-ripe flavor of such Napa Cabs are impressive on first sip, and, granted, many people like that style, just as they may like an over-oaked, over-ripe Chardonnay at 15% alcohol.

    Technically, even legally, speaking, the U.S. Standards of Identity specifies that “Table wine is grape wine having an alcoholic content not in excess of 14 percent by volume.” Those in excess of that level are deemed “Dessert Wines,” like Port and Sherry.

                     

“Finesse” itself, according to any dictionary, as refinement or delicacy of workmanship, structure, or texture, are not virtues one associates with massive, tannic- and alcohol-driven Cabs of a kind that drives the U.S. market today. Yet many of these wines are among the highest-priced “trophy” names in Napa, like Screaming Eagle, selling for up to $3,500 a bottle. By comparison, a First Growth Bordeaux like Mouton Rothschild 2021 goes for about $500-$600.

    It's not unlike comparing the purchase of a Maserati A6G for $4 million to an Aston Martin DB11 at $217,000, which may say  more about the person who buys one over another. As Oscar Wilde once observed, “A cynic is one who knows the price of everything and the value of nothing.”

 







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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             








              

MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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