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MARIANI’S Virtual Gourmet March
8, 2026
NEWSLETTER Founded in 1996 ARCHIVE ![]() Oyster Shuckers, 1937
THIS WEEK SMALL IN SIZE AND VERY WEALTHY, BRONXVILLE, NY, HAS A RICH RESTAURANT SCENE By John Mariani THE BISON CHAPTER THIRTEEN By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
California Wineries Have for Years
Promised By John Mariani ❖❖❖
SMALL IN SIZE AND VERY
WEALTHY,
By John Mariani
The
natives of the Westchester suburb of
Bronxville (35 minutes from, Grand Central)
happily accept its moniker as the “Golden
Square Mile,” given its exceptionally
affluent population of just 6,500 with an
average home income of $430,000. They do,
though, bristle when people erroneously
believe it is part of the Bronx. (The
name comes instead from the Bronx River that
flows through it.)
As
throughout the county Bronxville is home to
several Italian restaurants, from the lively Il
Bacio and Rosie’s Bistro Italiano
to the shadowy Scalini Osteria and Tredici
Social, along with three pizzerias. A
brand new addition is La Chitarra (7 Pondfield Road), which is part fresh
pasta shop
You’ll
be brought some crusty country bread, so there
is no real reason to
order focaccia at $9. Slickly grilled octopus
comes with potatoes, the mild bite of capers,
olives and tomatoes. There’s a slightly heavy
hand with salt in some dishes, but if you love
roast chicken, La Chitarra's is one of the
better versions around.
La Casa
(7 Pondfield Road) is located in the
former Gramatan Hotel once a retreat for
fleeting assignations by Broadway actors, and
it has long served a slightly elevated style
of Mexican food. Opened by Spencer
Pingel (with a newer Casa in Purchase, NY) the
space is composed of a glittering bar and
large dining room very popular with families.
Straw lamps
hang from the ceiling in a main dining room
set with banquettes and bistro chairs, scones,
prints of fruits, with fin de siècle French
The opening menu is quite short––five
starters, six entrees––full of bistro classics
like a smooth country-style pâté maison (right)
with gherkins and mustard sauce;, an onion
soup (left) that needed a more deeply
flavorful broth of caramelized onions; tender
mussels in white wine with crisp frites;
and two double-cut lamb chops, perfectly
cooked. For dessert there’s crème brûleé and
apple Tarte Tatin.
The wine list is surprisingly short and
composed of rather dull bottlings. I suspect
this will improve as Ma Maison gets its
footing. I also trust that the menu will rise
above the expected cliches like grilled salmon
and endive salad, for French bistro fare is so
much more extensive. Perhaps Pringale is
testing the waters of a conservative
clientele, but it would be nice to see more
Parisian dishes like wintry cassoulet,
blanquette de veau and île
flottante. ❖❖❖
THE BISON By John Mariani ![]()
Donald Trump, Melania Knauss,
Jeffrey Epstein and Ghislaine
Maxwell
In order to find out what
went on at Epstein’s parties, Katie knew she
needed to find people who had attended them,
some, perhaps, against their will. She
figured Ramona Sanchez would be her best bet,
so she asked David to contact her in Miami. The British press first
linked the Prince with Jeffrey Epstein in
February 1999, their meeting arranged through
Ghislaine Maxwell, flying on Epstein’s private
Gulfstream jet to his Little St. James island.
A year later both Epstein and Maxwell (as an
uninvited “plus one”) were invited to a
star-studded guest at a
Windsor Castle party called the Dance of the
Decades, hosted by In December 2000 Andrew
threw a
surprise birthday party at Sandringham, the
Queen's estate in Norfolk, for Maxwell, with
Epstein among the guests, which Andrew told
the BBC was a "straightforward shooting
weekend."
By then Epstein was publicly boasting
that the Prince was his “best friend,” flying
off together with Maxwell on trips to Florida
and Thailand, and that, according to an Evening
Standard report, Epstein had joined the
Prince on five such occasions over the
previous 12 months. Andrew told the BBC that
he used to see Epstein a “maximum of three
times a year” but confirmed he had been on his
private plane, stayed at his private island
and stayed at his homes in Palm Beach and New
York. It also came to light that Andrew had
arranged in secret to have Epstein pay off
£15,000 of Sarah Ferguson’s debts.
Katie lay back
on her bed, telling herself this story was,
quoting Alice in Wonderland,
“curiouser and curiouser.” The caipirhiña and
the red wine from dinner sent her straight to
sleep.
❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
California Wineries Have
for Years Promised More Finesse in Their
Cabernet Sauvignons. Have They Abandoned That
Goal? ![]() The Judgment of Paris, 1976
Back
in the 1970s when the California wine industry was
starting to simmer with labels like Robert
Mondavi, Stag’s leap Cellars, Chateau Montelena,
Beaulieu, Heitz
Cellars and others they made headlines for what
were called “blockbuster Cabs”––most famously at
the 1976 Judgment
of Paris blind tasting where Californian Cabernet
Sauvignons beat out famous French Bordeaux. At
that moment Napa Valley wines had broken through
and were no longer considered pale shadows of
French counterparts. To boot, the
emerging U.S. wine media, led by Robert
Parker (below) in his Wine Advocate
newsletter, hailed these hefty, fruit-driven wines
with scores in the high 90s out of 100. Many wine
lovers, myself included, thought these wines were
indeed one-dimensional monsters that, as one
sommelier giddily told me, “will blow your doors
off.” I was sniffed at by one wine California wine
writer who said, “You have an East Coast palate, and
that’s why you can’t enjoy West Coast wines.” Aside from
their lack of finesse, they were also high in
alcohol at 14.5% and getting higher all the time.
Almost in secret, however, many Napa vintners were
aware that their wines lacked balance and
refinement, but in 1988 a group formed the Meritage
Association, whose members sought to develop wines
that had more complexity than traditional California
varietals, to be achieved by blending in classic
Bordeaux varieties. Such wines needed to be limited
in production to no more than twenty-five thousand
cases from each vintage by a single winery. But now, a
quarter century later, Napa vintners seemed to
forget their promise to make better, more mellow
Cabs. What I find is that many of the most touted
labels are as full-bodied and immature as ever with
alcohol levels going to 16% in some bottlings like
Cornerstone Cellars Benchmark and Amulet Estate “The
Dark Ark.” By comparison, most Bordeaux reds begin
at 13.5% and rarely go to 14.5%. Alcohol in and of itself does not
make a Cab a monster, but the reasons for it can
range from a warming climate to the Napa tendency to
pick grapes later in the season, when they have more
sugar that turns into more alcohol. Sugar content
creates “phenolic ripeness,” and Napa producers want
that bigger, hotter, fruitier, in-your-face style
gained by picking late. So you may not taste the
alcohol but you’ll feel it. As Karen MacNeil (below),
author of The Wine Bible, The over-ripe
flavor of such Napa Cabs are impressive on first
sip, and, granted, many people like that style, just
as they may like an over-oaked, over-ripe Chardonnay
at 15% alcohol. Technically,
even legally, speaking, the U.S. Standards of
Identity specifies that “Table wine is
grape wine having an alcoholic
content not in excess of 14 percent by volume.”
Those in excess of that level are deemed “Dessert
Wines,” like Port and Sherry. “Finesse” itself,
according to any dictionary, as refinement
or
delicacy of workmanship, structure, or texture,
are not virtues one associates with massive, tannic-
and alcohol-driven Cabs of a kind that drives the
U.S. market today. Yet many of these wines are among
the highest-priced “trophy” names in Napa, like
Screaming Eagle, selling for up to $3,500 a bottle.
By comparison, a First Growth Bordeaux like Mouton
Rothschild 2021 goes for about $500-$600.
It's not unlike comparing the purchase of a Maserati
A6G for $4 million to an Aston Martin DB11 at
$217,000, which may say more about
the person who buys one over another. As Oscar Wilde
once observed, “A cynic is one who knows the price
of everything and the value of nothing.” ❖❖❖
❖❖❖ Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven
(21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and
for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance,
inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find
this to be a treasured favorite. The story
concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and
their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their
barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise.
But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and
the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring
his master back from the edge of despair. WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish.
Contributing
Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical
Advisor: Gerry
McLoughlin. If you wish to subscribe to this
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