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VIRTUAL GOURMET JULY 5, 2026
NEWSLETTER ARCHIVE ![]() HAPPY FOURTH OF JULY
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WHAT IS AMERICAN FOOD? By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER BRASSERIE COGNAC AMÉRICAIN By John Mariani THE BISON CHAPTER TWENTY-EIGHT By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR By John Mariani ❖❖❖
WHAT IS AMERICAN FOOD? BY John Mariani ![]()
Cynics
have always derided American food as
simplistic, unhealthy, adulterated and
favoring quantity over quantity. And for a
while in the post-World War II period that
seemed to be the case as the food industry
made cheap food available to everyone in
abundance, even if frozen or boxed. It is no wonder, then,
that American food deserved the hard knocks it
once took before a revolution took place in
the 1970s that stressed freshness, local
ingredients, ethnic variety and a turning away
from junk food, which at first meant More disturbing was the
fact that small, family-owned restaurants,
where such food was traditionally made
according to old recipes, were being nudged
aside in favor of the fast-food eateries, so
that even American institutions like the diner
and the cafeteria, where excellent American
fare could be had, found it difficult if not
impossible to compete with the fast-food
places’ prices and “fun atmosphere.” The reaction to all
this was the development of a culinary elitism
that once again pronounced the excellence of
French, Italian, and Oriental cuisines and the
horrid state of American gastronomy. Even a
charming Boston woman named Julia Child
enjoyed a long run on public television
showing Americans how to cook, not turkey with
stuffing, clam chowders, or scrod, but rôti de
porc poêle, canard a l’orange, and choux de
Bruxelles. Credit must be given to such
a television program and to Mrs. Child for
relieving the inferiority complex American
cooks had about French food and complex
cooking processes in general. Her tone was
typically Yankee and refreshingly reassuring,
and she taught a generation how to care about
excellent ingredients and attention to detail.
And in her TV series in the 1980s, Child did
feature American cooking and championed
California wines.
At the same time, food
magazines like Gourmet,
Cuisine, Food & Wine, and others
began devoting more space to American cookery,
and even the Culinary Institute of America, a
cooking school in Hyde Park, New York, long
devoted to Continental cuisine, opened a
separate course of study on American food. The publication in 1970
of Time-Life’s beautifully produced Foods of
the World included seven volumes on
regional American cookery (right),
which gave the food a legitimacy of the kind
afforded French, Italian, and Japanese
cuisines. Well written, gorgeously
illustrated, and full of well-tested, explicit
recipes, these volumes on New England, Creole
and Acadian, Northwest, Eastern Heartland,
Southern Style, Great West, and Melting Pot
regional cooking showed just how diverse this
nation’s cookery is. They revealed the wealth
of tradition and history behind each dish and
a people’s pride in every preparation. Thousands of other
authoritative regional cookbooks have appeared
since then, ranging from specific books on a
single item like chili or cheesecake to thick
volumes of recipes compiled by women’s
organizations throughout the United States.
Several excellent histories of American food
and drink have appeared within the last
decade, along with delightful compendiums of
lore and anecdotes on everything from candy
bars and ice cream to North American fish.
American wines, which in the 1970s became
internationally respected, have been boosted
by wine writers and recorded in narratives and
encyclopedias with the same care and devotion
to accuracy given the vineyards of Bordeaux
and Burgundy. Things seem to be on the right
track again.
As ever, but even more
so now, American food is diversified,
modified, substantial, complex, heterogeneous,
subtle, humdrum, exciting, excessive,
embracing, soul-warming and stomach-filling,
hot, cold, prepared with honesty, concocted
with audacity, promoted with passion, consumed
with courage, debated with conviction, tossed
in a pot, simmered in a kettle, fried in a
skillet, chilled in a bowl, shaken in a
canister, brewed in an urn, topped off, tossed
out, shoved down, pushed aside, got through,
held up, jiggled at the end of a pole, brought
down with an arrow, skinned with a knife,
tested with a finger, squeezed with a hand,
sniffed at, cursed at, argued over, and
beloved by a people who will try anything
once. What is American food? It
is all of this. ❖❖❖
NEW YORK CORNER BRASSERIE COGNAC
AMÉRICAIN 212-470-5889 By John Mariani ![]()
The announcement that master chef
Michael
Lomonaco, formerly of Porter House, was
appointed as chef and partner for a new
Brasserie Cognac set across from the New York
Public Library was very good
news. The chain of four restaurants under that
name, run by the Serafina Group
owned by Fabio Granato and Vittorio Assaf,
adds the fifth iteration that is
quite a spectacular advance set over two
stories. It has a bright glistening
horseshoe bar, broad dining room, banquettes,
beautiful white marble tables and,
somehow, a noise level that is not as high as
you might expect in a place with
these high ceilings.
Open
only a month when I visited, the service staff
was in full swing, from the
charming hostesses who greet you to manager
Bruce
Crystal’s smooth ministrations and the
waiters
who keep the pace going.
Thus
far, the new Brasserie’s all day menu doesn’t
differ much from the other
branches’ with
a few new items and a
separate “La Boucherie” section with six cuts
from steak frites to a 30-ounce
côte de boeuf. The wine list is
not huge but more than serviceable for brasserie
cuisine. The thick wineglasses
are not. You’ll begin with
good bread and butter, but the cheese-rich
gougeres were a hit as much for four
adults as for a young child who gobbled his up
with obvious relish. The
Alsatian onion tart was made with goat’s cheese
and bacon, and it’s always good
to find silky leeks au vinaigrette
gribiche
with warm shallots in summer. There’s a big
roasts marrow bone, and the sauteed
duck foie gras was particularly luscious via its
sour cherry compote and brioche
toast. Unexpected but delicious was an ahi tuna
bowl of sushi rice, avocado,
pineapple, edamame, relish and cucumber. Steak frites was
made with the butcher’s hanger cut with maître d
butter and a mess of perfect
French fries. I’ve seen a return of the classic
old canard à l’orange on French
menus, and here the magret breast, cooked rare,
came with a sauce deeply
reduced and spiked with Grand Marnier,
accompanied by butter-rich potato puree.
I was torn about
ordering from the burgers and sandwiches
section, which contains a fried
chicken club, a Croque monsieur or madame, a
lobster roll, even a French dip of
roast sirloin with caramelized onions sopping up
beef juices. In the end I went
with the LaFrieda Signature burger––LaFrieda
being a top meat supplier in New
York–– which was made with Prime beef cheese,
grilled onion, lettuce, tomato
and French fries. It was fine burger, if not the
best in a city where competition
is fierce. For seafood there
is a finely grilled branzino à la Provençale
with a tangy ratatouille. A good brasserie’s
jolly atmosphere demands ordering desserts, and
Brasserie Cognac is delivering
with practiced attention to getting the crust of
the crème brûleé perfect; the generous
portion of chocolate laced profiteroles; and a
seven-layer deep dark chocolate
cake that is more sky high American than
Parisian and welcome for that distinction.
This
version of
Brasserie Cognac has immediately become the
company’s flagship, and at a time
when restaurateurs are said to be cautious about
capital investment, Serafina
has gone all out and given the city a
spectacular venue fittingly across from
the magnificent Library. The neighborhood seems
to be a new nexus, with the
Grand Central Oyster Bar and Restaurant around
the corner, Wolfgang’s
Steakhouse under the highway bridge, the haute
cuisine Gabriel Kreuther down
the block and Daniel Boulud’s Le Pavillon on
Vanderbilt Avenue. It’s simple
logic: New York can never have enough great
restaurants. Open daily four lunch
and dinner. Brunch Sat. &
Sun. ❖❖❖
THE BISON By John Mariani ![]()
Donald Trump, Melania Knauss,
Jeffrey Epstein and Ghislaine
Maxwell
Katie was feeling wholly
frustrated by the lack of progress on what she
felt sure was a story with a murder in it
attached to the horrors of the Epstein
perfidies. Now, with Epstein blithely back at
the supposed scene of the crime, she wracked
her brain as to how to penetrate the shield
Epstein had erected around him with the help
of highly placed and very powerful men, not
just in Palm Beach and the rest of the United
States
❖❖❖ NOTES FROM
THE WINE CELLAR By John Mariani ❖❖❖ ![]() WHY THERE'LL ALWAYS BE AN ENGLAND "I’m not saying that Dante,
at Claridge’s in Mayfair, is the ultimate American
restaurant, but ooh, do you feel you are entering a
seductive, soothing, expensive, smoothly grinning
money machine as you are ushered through the foyer
and into the bowels of the hotel’s clean new
restaurant. . . . It’s
certainly a lotof money for martinis that aren’t
real, to sit at tables that are too big, in a
place that’s clattery in a way the Wolseley never
is, among Americans whom the hotel only considers
desirable because at least they aren’t Middle
Easterners."––Camilla Long, "Dante," London
Times (6/21/26). ❖❖❖ Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven
(21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and
for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance,
inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find
this to be a treasured favorite. The story
concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and
their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their
barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise.
But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and
the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring
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MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
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