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April 19, 2026                                                                                                     NEWSLETTER

 


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Erika Marozsan in "Gloomy Sunday" (1999)

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WHAT'S IN  A CREOLE NAME?
By John Mariani

NEW YORK CORNER
BENJAMIN'S STEAKHOUSE IN WHITE PLAINS

By John Mariani


THE BISON
CHAPTER  EIGHTEEN

By John Mariani

NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
DO YOU REALLY NEED A
CUSTOM-DESIGNED WINE CELLAR?

By John Mariani



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                WHAT’S IN A CREOLE NAME?

                                                     by John Mariani



 

 

    Most Americans are familiar enough with the oddities of foods with names like hot dogs (which should contain no dog), hamburgers (which contain no ham) and may well wonder how Caesar salad, the Reuben sandwich, and Buffalo chicken wings got their names.  But nowhere is the nomenclature of indigenous food more puzzling than in New Orleans, where a mix of local dialects and influences from French, African, Italian, Spanish, and Indian languages have coalesced into a patois that takes a long time to get to understand, unless you’ve grown up within the sound of the bells of St. Louis in Jackson Square.

       So if you go to N’awlins (the local pronunciation) you’d better go with this little dictionary of terms, so that when someone offers you some “mud bugs and dirty rice,” you don’t make a face.

 

Oysters Rockefeller (above)—These luscious bivalves cooked with watercress, scallions, celery, anise, cream and other seasonings were created in 1899 at Antoine's, one of the oldest restaurants in America (opened in 1840). The dish was so called because the mixture of oysters was so lavishly rich that proprietor Jules Alciatore named the dish after the richest man in the world at that time, John D. Rockefeller (who never ate at Antoine's). The recipe is still a secret, though mimicked all over town, so Antoine's is still the only one to make the one true version of this dish.

 

 

Café Brûlot—French for “burnt brandy coffee.” Chicory coffee, used since the Civil War when coffee was unavailable, with citrus rind, cinnamon and a good shot of brandy has been enjoyed in the city since the 19th century, when special flame-proof café brûlot "bowls" were in every dining room, Today the dramatic flaming of the beverage is still part of the ritual that accompanies this coffee service at many restaurants around town, best appreciated on the patio at Commander’s Palace on Sunday with brunch and New Orleans jazz.

 


 


Bananas Foster--an outlandishly extravagant dessert of sautéed bananas with butter, brown sugar, rum and banana liqueur was created in the 1950s at Brennan's by then-chef Paul Blange as part of the famous "Breakfast at Brennan's," and named after Richard Foster, the owner of an awning company who also happened to be a very, very good customer at the restaurant. 

 

Panéed—A French-Creole term for the technique of pan frying meat or seafood that has been breaded or otherwise coated; it is not deep-frying, and the oil must be just hot enough  to set the crust on the food.

 


Mudbugs—A local colloquialism for crawfish, which is itself a local pronunciation for crayfish.  Since these crustaceans inhabit muddy waters they’ve received the name with arch affection. They’re also called creekcrabs, yabbies, and cheval du diable (French for “devil’s horse”). Crawfish étouffée refers to the French word for braising, and in New Orleans refers to a gently cooked food--in this case, fat, luscious crawfish set over steaming rice.

 


Hurricane—A cocktail with little repute outside of New Orleans, but when you're in the Quarter, one must make the pilgrimage to Pat O'Brien's, where this cocktail of rum, passion fruit flavoring and sour mix served in a tall "hurricane glass" (tall and shaped like a hurricane lamp) was created. You'll find people coming out of this saloon with a souvenir glass, and others going in to try O'Brien's other climatically named libations like the cyclone, the breeze and the cyclone.

 

 

Calas. These yummy little breakfast rice cakes mixed with sugar then deep fried and served with honey take their names from an African word for “fried cake.” They were once hawked on the streets of New Orleans' French Quarter by vendors who sang out in Creole French, "Belles calas tout chauds!"—“beautiful, hot calas!” Today they are rarely made except at the Coffee, where they're served daily with cane sugar syrup and chicory coffee.

 

 

Muffuletta—A Creole version of the hero sandwich, only here the bread is round and about the size of a deflated basketball, stuffed with Genoa and mortadella salami and cheeses and then dressed with pickled olives.  It is said to have originated at the Central Grocery Co. on Decatur Street, where Salvatore Lupo came up with the idea back in 1906 and gave it the name of a similar sandwich made in his native Sicily. Take one home on the plane and make the other passengers envious.

 

Po' boy. This is another style of hero sandwich, made with a long French loaf sliced sideways and filled with anything from cheese and lettuce to fried oysters (this last makes the sandwich a mediatrice--a "mediator" given to a wife by an errant husband who stayed out too late).  The name comes from its association for out-of-work streetcar strikers in 1906 who were fed the sandwich by Clovis Martin of Martin Brothers Grocery (now gone).The lovingly named Mother's is famous for its po' boys, especially its "ferdi," stuffed with roast beef and "debris"(pronounced “DAY-bree”)--the shards of crisp meat that falls off the roast.

 

 

Beignets--These light, fluffy Creole French fritters (the name means “pillows”) are wholly addictive, despite the inevitable risk of showering of their powdered sugar topping all over your clothes. It is sacrosanct tradition to eat them--at any time of day or night--at the Cafe du Monde with a cup of their strong chicory coffee, a package of which almost everyone takes home after tasting this rich brew.

 

Gumbo--The very sound of the word "Gumbo" makes you think of its African origins, and the word is Bantu for okra, a common ingredient in this cross between a soup and a stew. You can get terrific gumbos made with crawfish, shrimp, sausage and vegetables all over town, but why take a chance? Head straight for the Gumbo Shop, which does more kinds better than anyone else and has a lovely antiquarian charm that makes this a favorite spot to dine casually.

 

Shrimp rémoulade--Basically this is just boiled shrimp with a spicy mayonnaise and mustard dressing that in New Orleans often acquires the addition of hard-boiled eggs and parsley. It is one of the many traditional dishes found at Galatoire's, where it is served cold.

 


Pain perdu—This is French for “lost bread,” referring to a way to use stale bread by making it into either French toast or a bread pudding of amazing richness and lots of caramel.  My favorites are the traditional homestyle version made at Mother's and the white chocolate bread pudding at the Palace Café for which I'd walk the length of a streetcar line in July.

 

Jambalaya—The word is a happy sound, especially since Hank Williams made it into a Cajun-beat pop song of the same name. A hearty mix of ham (the word may come from the Spanish, jamon, for ham), pork, sausage, shrimp and crayfish cooked with rice, jambalaya is as identifiable as any dish in Louisiana as pure native cookery. Still, it's not that easy to find in New Orleans. One of my favorite places to get it is at Olde N'Awlins Cookery, with its lovely brickwalled courtyard, good prices and very friendly service.

 

Macquechou—No one has ever ascertained where the name for this dish of corn, onion, peppers and milk came from, but some believe it was brought to Louisiana by the Spanish with the name machica;  others think the word comes from the French colloquialism maigrichou, for “thin child,” though that doesn’t sound right.

 


Dirty Rice—Simply because this rice dish riddled with cooked chicken livers and gizzards attains a gray-brown appearance, it has come by this lowly name.

 

Petticoat tails—This cookie with a scallop-shaped edge has a fascinating linguistic history, which begins in the court of Queen Mary Stuart of Scotland (1542-87), who was much influenced by the French court, where these cookies were called petits gâtels or petit gateaux—“little cakes.” Scottish immigrants brought the cookie to New Orleans, altering the pronunciation to “petticoat tails,” and the name stuck because the edges do have the look of a petticoat hem.

 



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NEW YORK CORNER


                                                             BENJAMIN STEAK HOUSE
                                                                                610 Hartsdale Road
                                                                                 White Plains, NY
                                                                                    914 428-6868

        By John Mariani

 

       Little things add up in a good restaurant. You arrive and are cordially greeted and shown to your table past a handsome bar into an elegant, polished dining room, its spacious tables well set with white linens and thin stemware, salt and pepper grinders, candlelight. There's a fireplace and a wall of wine.The black leather chairs and brown banquettes are  comfortable. There is no pounding music played. The moment you sit down a busboy brings a basket of bread rolls, butter and olive oil. The highly experienced waiter asks if anyone wants a cocktail. The pace of the courses is smooth. Portions are deftly doled out. Plates are warmed. Wines are at the right temperature.

       If none of these details seems extraordinary, I can guarantee that these days they are exceptional at a time when the civilities of dining out have been dashed by so many uncomfortable, cramped, loud, barely designed restaurants with cheap glassware, paper napkins, no tablecloths and a waitstaff seemingly drafted right off the street.

       Put all these details together and you have a restaurant like Benjamin Steakhouse, whether it’s one of two in Manhattan or the newer version in the Westchester suburb of White Plains. Then add in the finest beef, abundant side dishes and a wine list with more than 1,000 selections and you have something quite special––even though all is as it should be.

       The New York steakhouse model varies by design and service, once barebones décor and gruff waiters. Now there is far too much competition to rest on those outdated ideas, and, as I’ve had ample reason to extol, many of the new steakhouses are run by eastern Europeans well-schooled in Old World service. And their clientele are fully appreciative of the attention.

       In the case of Benjamin, the owners Benjamin Prelvukaj and Ben Sinanaj and director of operations Victor Dedushaj run their restaurants with the same aplomb once found at places like ‘21’ Club and The Four Seasons, and the nightly full parking lot in White Plains indicates a clientele who expects nothing less.
     
The menu doesn’t stray from the classics, beginning with a fine French onion soup thick with browned Gruyère and a well-cut tuna tartare with toast. The generous platter of shellfish teems with fat crustaceans and bivalves, not least truly jumbo lump crabmeat (although the crab cake appetizers does not).

I’m always partial to an Iceberg lettuce wedge with dried Canadian bacon, cherry tomatoes and blue cheese dressing and the lobster bisque is more lobster flavor than cream.  The whole lobsters weigh in at a hefty two pounds, shelled quickly at the table to keep the flesh warm.
         There are eight options for steaks and chops, including a hamburger. The steak for two , three or four   is a lot of meat,  even for two, and the tomahawk cut is a really a show-off.  I’m glad to see that Benjamin has not fallen into the trend of serving the ubiquitous wagyu not nearly as good as USDA Prime.

There are also four fish items each night.
        The creamed spinach is luxurious, keeping the flavor of the vegetable forward by using a stock reduction  rather than gobs of cream, and, if you really like to gild the lily, try a platter of the home fries lavished with melted blue cheese.

Desserts are as full-bodied as the rest of the menu, including an excellent cheesecake, perfect créme brûlée and crunchy pecan pie.

The owners of Benjamin also run the new Seafire Grill overlooking the Hudson River that I wrote about several months ago, which has become a destination spot for the Tri-State Region. The White Plains branch of Benjamin’s replicates the original’s largess and service but does so in a more spacious, relaxing atmosphere that draws guests from across the Tappan Zee Bridge and south from Connecticut for all those reasons of classic hospitality so often missing these days in  food service.

Incidentally, you won’t find a better fixed price three-course lunch at $44.95 than here, especially now in springtime in the glass-in porch at Benjamin’s.

 

 

Open for lunch and dinner daily.










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THE BISON
By John Mariani



                       Donald Trump, Melania Knauss, Jeffrey Epstein and Ghislaine Maxwell


CHAPTER EIGHTEEN


        Rather than go into a room where they would normally grill a suspect, Rush brought them to his own office, which had a couch and two chairs, with a coffee table, file cabinets and a peg board on one wall.    
       Katie was amazed at how young Virginia Giuffre appeared, more so than Susannah. The girl looked more like a hippie than a hooker, free of make-up with gray-blue eyes and thin lips. Pretty but not stunning. She was wearing a denim skirt, sandals and spaghetti strap top, with  a strand of Thai beads around her neck and a turquoise bracelet. She was smiling.
       Everyone shook hands and sat down. Katie asked if she could use her tape recorder, Virginia shrugged and Rush turned on his own recorder.
       “I’m going to ask you some basic questions, Miss Peters, things I know you’ve gone over before.”
       “It’s Mrs. Giuffre, if you don’t mind.” She said.
       Katie and David then learned that she was born Virginia Louise Roberts
 in Sacramento, California, in 1983, with a younger brother to her parents Sky and Lynn Roberts, who relocated to Loxahatchee in Palm Beach County.

       “Now,” Rush said, “you told us before you came from a ‛troubled home,’ and that you were molested at the age of seven by a family friend.”
       Giuffre nodded and said, “I was just so mentally scarred already at such a young age, and I ran away from that, and after a while I was put in a series of foster homes. Hated every one and I ran away every time.  From the time I was fourteen I was living on the streets where I was always hungry and suffered more abuse.”

       “And who was Ron Eppinger?” asked Rush.
       “He was a sex trafficker in Miami (right), and he took me in and abused me, too. He was sixty-five and ran this bogus modeling agency named Perfect 10, out of which he trafficked girls. Finally the FBI got him for prostitution and money laundering, and he was put away after pleading guilty. Far as I know he’s still in prison. At least I hope so.”
       Katie and David were both thinking of the rottenness that allowed such people to thrive and thought again of the Magdalene Laundries in Ireland where the abuse had been sanctioned by the Catholic Church.
       Giuffre continued: “I had no place else to go, so I went home to live with my father, who worked as a maintenance manager at Mar-a-Lago (below), which is owned by Donald Trump. My father got me a job there as a spa attendant. It wasn’t a great payday but it was clean and safe. Plenty of security in that place because of the kind of clientele it attracted.”
       “And that’s where you met Ghislaine Maxwell?”
       “Yeah, I was sitting around at the spa reading a book and this woman with a British accent came up to me and like started talking to me, told me I was such a pretty girl, and bullshit. She asked if I knew massage therapy and said she could get me a job as a traveling masseuse for Jeffery Epstein.”
       “Did you know who that was?”
       “Not a clue. I just assumed he was another old rich guy who could afford to fly around with his own personal masseuse. Shit, I didn’t actually know anything about being a masseuse but it didn’t seem to matter to Ghislaine. She told me she knew some guy who would train me, and if it works out, I’d  make good money and travel.”
       “What happened then?” asked Katie. 
        “The training started immediately. It was everything, down to how to be quiet, be subservient, give Jeffrey what he wants. A lot of this training came from Ghislaine herself, and being a woman, it kind of surprises you that a woman could actually let stuff like that happen. But not only let it happen but to groom you into doing it.”
       “And then?”
      “We went over to Jeffrey’s and, I gotta say, that was a freaking big house. And I’m led right into this massage room and there’s Jeffrey naked. Ghislaine told me to take off my clothes and give him a blowjob.”
       Katie realized how identical the stratagem was to what Susannah had told her.
       “They seemed like real nice people so I trusted them, and I told them I'd had a really hard time in my life up until then. I'd been a runaway, I'd been sexually abused, physically abused. That was the worst thing I could have told them because now they knew how vulnerable I was. From then on they were grooming me to be a masseuse who also gave the guys sex. From then on my whole life revolved around just pleasing these men and keeping Ghislaine and Jeffrey happy. And their whole entire lives revolved around sex.”
       Katie asked, “And when was this?”
       “Like two years ago. I mean, compared to what I’d been through, it wasn’t such a bad life. I got to travel to New York, Jeffrey’s private island and the Zorro Ranch.  I loved that place because it was so different from South Florida. Dry heat.  But it all went bad real fast.   I was passed around like a platter of fruit to Jeffrey’s friends. It was a wicked and really scary time for me, and I really couldn’t understand how in the highest level of the government, powerful people were allowing this to happen. Not just allowing but participating in it. And I was a piece of fruit in the whole rotten business.”
       Rush said, “And that’s about where we left off last time we spoke, correct?”
       “I guess so.”
       “And on the basis of what you told us we opened an investigation, but you took off to Thailand.”
       For the first moment Giuffre winced as if she’d been struck.
       “I took off because Ghislaine wanted to send me to this fancy massage therapy school in Chang Mai. And when I got there I met the guy I married (right). He’s a good man, and he wouldn’t let anything happen to me over there. And, listen, I came back because you people don’t seem to be going anywhere with this investigation, so I decided to give you the names of the other guys in Jeffrey’s world. If you don’t take it seriously I can always go straight to the Miami Herald.”
       Katie said, “Mrs. Giuffre, I am part of the press, and I, for one, guarantee I’ll report what you tell me if I can get sources to back it up.”
       “Where you from again?”
       David spoke. “McClure’s magazine. And Katie’s one of the finest investigative journalists in the country. What she says she’ll do, she’ll do.”
       Rush tried to get his questions back on track.
       “It may seem, Mrs. Giuffre, we’ve been dragging our feet on this case, but it’s because now the FBI and the IRS are also involved, and anything you tell us about these powerful men in Epstein’s grasp the more likely he and some other people will be going to prison for a long time.”
       “I hope I live long enough,” she said. “Jeffrey’s surrounded by buffers. These kind of people never go to jail or they get a slap on the wrist.”
       “Then why do you want to get further involved?” asked Katie.
       Giuffre laughed. “Isn’t it obvious? If I can’t get Jeffrey and his bitch Ghislaine hanged then I want them to be publicly exposed and humiliated. They go to jail, even better. I just want the trafficking of young girls to stop. That’s it for me. If that happens I’m never setting foot in Florida again. And by the way, I’m expecting a child.”
       “You mean you fear for your life if you stay here?” asked Katie.
       “You’re damn right I do. Jeffrey has, like,  a big revenge streak in him. He’s careful but even if he has to wait, he’ll try to get to anyone who betrays him.”
       “Do you know of anyone he’s gone after?”
       “Nobody he’s knocked off, though I wouldn’t doubt it. More like threatening them, like beating them up. You ever heard of a guy named Vargas out of Miami?”
       David and Katie looked at each other, then at Rush, who said, “We know he runs a brothel down there. How’s he involved?”
       “Vargas is one of the people Jeffrey uses for like strong arm stuff. There are others. Vargas usually hires them.”
       “And you think this Vargas, through Epstein, has ordered hits on people?”
       Giuffre smirked and said, “What are you? A sergeant, lieutenant or captain?”
       “Captain.”
       “And, like, I have to tell you these things?”
       “Okay,” said Rush, “let’s get back to Epstein’s friends. “Who are these powerful men who attend these parties?”    
      
Giuffre puffed, “That’s a long list. I was only there for like eighteen months and I didn’t know most of these guys. A lot of them were like local politicians, developers, bankers. I was introduced to a lot of them and was their girl for the night. Everybody I assume was getting sex—I mean like they weren’t there for the free food and booze. All of them leering and giggling. Most of them looking like they hoped their wives wouldn’t find out.” 
      
“So, who were some of these men?”
        “I remember the first guy Ghislaine had me meet, a big hedge fund manager named Dubin (left).”
        “Glenn Dubin?” asked David. “Billionaire, head of  the Robin Hood Foundation.”
        “I guess so. He was the first powerful guy Ghislaine gave me to.  He was one of those guys who would like boast to me about how he’d married a Miss Sweden, and how his kids had met Jeffrey, like he was just attending some bible meeting. Jeffrey was obsessed with his teenage  daughter Celina. What a creep. Ghislaine put us in a room and we had sex, while his pregnant wife was sleeping in the next room.”   
        Katie shook her head. “Who else?”
        “That attorney who was in the O.J. trial. Dershowitz (right)? A fat pol from New Mexico, I think, Bill Richardson. The heads of a lot of modeling agencies, scouting out girls they never planned to use as models. The head of Victoria’s Secret. Bill Clinton I saw on Jeffrey’s island with two girls. He liked the young ones. That  British guy, Tony Blair (left). Jeffrey once had 12-year-old triplets flown in from France for his birthday and flown back the following day after being sexually abused by some Wall Street guy. Other times he’d take away a girl’s passport so she couldn’t’ leave the U.S. He brought in girls from Brazil and other South American countries,  and Europe—Jeffrey loved Russian girls—and the MC2 modeling agency in New York that this scumbag named Jean-Luc Brunel (right) opened after Jeffrey lent him some money. He brought in all his newest, youngest girls. Jeffrey even forced some girls to marry new foreign girls so they could stay in the country.
    “Oh, then there was this Saudi Prince.  What a sleazebag, walking around in these long white dresses looking like Lawrence of Arabia. Then there was some big billionaire from South Africa named Angus. Who names their kid ‛Angus’? What a pig he was!”
     “Donald Trump?”
    “Oh, yeah, he and Jeffrey were close friends, soul buddies. He and Ghislaine went to the White House a bunch of times. And both of them only wanted really young girls. They’d stand around and, like, rate us, give us numbers, like, ‛Oh, she’s a nine” and ‛Hey, man, look at the rack on that one,' and worse, and all the girls could hear what they were saying. Then there’s Prince Andrew, who Ghislaine told me I had to ‛do for him what you do for Jeffrey.’”   
       “You mean massage?” asked Katie.
       “Yeah, Jeffrey’s kind of massage.”
       "Did you get paid for that?” asked David.
       “Oh, yeah, I got about $15,000.”
       “I’ve read that you traveled pretty extensively with Prince Andrew.”
       “Oh, yeah, I had a ball. Tahiti, Mexico, even his huge palace in London. He had more than one, you know. I was pretty dazzled. I wasn’t allowed to talk about him with anyone, but, hey, I made a lot of money off Andy and  drank a lot of Champagne, which, frankly, I never even really liked all that much. I used to ask for bourbon on the rocks. I remember Andy telling me, ‛Well, could you at least order Scotch?’ but I didn’t like Scotch.”
       “And you’re willing to go on the record about meeting these guys?” asked Rush.
       “Whatever nails Jeffrey I’ll talk about.”
       “And do you have any evidence that you were with all these men?” asked David.
       “Not much. Things were all done on Jeffrey’s property, and they made sure nothing got left behind when these guys were finished with the girls. There were videos, though, and the men had to know they were being filmed.”
        “Do you know where those tapes are stored?” asked David.
        Giuffre said, “Safe and sound.”
        “Do you believe Trump and Clinton when they say they had no idea what was going on?”   
        Giuffre laughed. “The walls were lined with photos of naked girls!”
        “And Andrew was in on all this?”
        “Of course.  Now, Andrew, with him I’ve got lots of stuff, a lot of which he gave me as gifts. Some of the rest I picked up from hotel rooms and restaurants along the way. My husband wants me to trash it all but I said it's going to come in handy one  day. Today’s the day, I guess.”
           “Did you ever see any money passed around at these parties?” asked Katie.
           Giuffre blinked. “Are you serious? You think these guys were paying us out of their own wallets? I can’t believe you even asked that.”
           Embarrassed, Katie responded, “I meant, like, pay-offs?”   
          
Giuffre shook her head again. “Yeah, right, they were stuffing big thick envelopes into Jeffrey’s pockets all night. Gimme a break.”
           The interview went on for an hour, until Giuffre said, “That’s it for me. I’m here for like two more nights if you want to reach me, but after that I’m going back to Thailand for good. I want my baby born there.”
       Rush, Katie and David thanked her for her help. Rush knew she was having a session with the FBI before leaving, and there would be some comparing of notes afterwards.
       “I wish you luck, Mrs. Giuffre. You’ll have police security until you leave the U.S.”
       “That’s cool, but I may need it in Thailand, too. Jeffrey’s got friends there, and I’m sure he’ll find out I’ve been in here talking to you.”
       “We’ll see what we can do with the Thai police.”
       “Good luck with that. No offense, but they’re like way more corrupt than the cops in Miami or around here.”
       She then turned to Katie and David and said, “And you two should be on alert, too. If Jeffrey and Ghislaine find out you’re snooping around, they’re gonna make sure you know it.”
       David thought of the spider in his bedroom and winced.

      

 

 


 
© John Mariani, 2024





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NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR



DO YOU REALLY NEED A CUSTOM-DESIGNED WINE CELLAR?

By John Mariani



Custom-designed cellars by Genuwine Cellars

 

       The romance attached to having a beautiful wine cellar done in polished mahogany with tile floors, air-conditioning and humidity controls is a pretension of rather recent vintage––a rich American connoisseur’s dream. Indeed, the rich European connoisseurs, including those who actually own wine chateaus, store their wines in musty old cellars, often hung with cobwebs, à la Edgar Allen Poe’s short story “The Cask of Amontillado,” in which a host seals up his enemy behind a wall in his wine cellar (left).

       These established cellars are cool by nature and the humidity constant, and no amount of mahogany will improve on those conditions. But assuming you do not have an ancient cellar beneath your chateau and instead live in an apartment  where the heat and cold vary season to season, even if you try to keep it at 70 degrees year-round, do you really need to be careful about storing your wine cache, no matter how big or small?

The simple answer is, in most cases, no.

    “A wine cellar is rarely just about storage,” says Robb Denomme,  founder and CEO of Genuwine Cellars, that since 1995 has designed and constructed over 10,000 bespoke projects.  “For the serious collector, it's a preservation environment. For the entertainer, it's a statement. And for many homeowners, it sits somewhere in the middle, a curated space that reflects their relationship with wine and, to a meaningful degree, their taste in design. There's a reason the traditional cellar has endured: It appeals to something instinctive in the way we think about wine: the patience, the history, the ritual. When you walk into a well-built traditional cellar, you feel it immediately.”

    Which sounds like a swell idea, but it will cost you plenty, and the “preservation” factor may not be of any real consequence unless you’re hoarding fifty-year-old cases of Lafite-Rothschild and Romanée-Conti.  Since most wine lovers drink wines within days, weeks or months of purchase, there’s no reason to worry about the temperature or the  humidity in your house or apartment. No one keeps their living quarters or cellar at 90 degrees, so anything below 80 degrees does no harm.

    Even more, cold has little effect on wine storage. I was once told by the owner of the Bordeaux estate Château Lafon-Rochet (left) that he forgot that he’d left a case of his wine on his boat where it was rocked about under icy-cold temperatures throughout the winter, but found, to his surprise, that the wines tasted perfectly fine when he re-discovered them that summer when the temperatures were above 80.

    In  my own experience I can count on the fingers of one hand the number of bottles that had gone bad over the last fifty years I’ve been storing them in my concrete-block house cellar (below) with pine shelving, where the temperatures range from about 60 degrees in winter and 70 in summer. I do have a de-humidifier just to take prevent the cellar from becoming musty in warm weather but not because I worry about it affecting the wines. Moreover, there’s no way of telling if those spoiled wines were already spoiled or corked when I bought them.

    I do have a dozen or so old, expensive bottles that I keep in a refrigerator (left) made for such wines, which is not a bad idea, since, depending on the size, can be had for $250 to $400 to hold twelve to 36 bottles.

    The ironic thing about building a $50,000+ wine cellar, however beautiful, is that stocking case upon case of rare wines is rather silly unless you either intend to drink all of them (assuming you don’t re-stock) or plan to will them to your heirs, who may or may not like wine very much. I once knew a woman who used her late husband’s rare Burgundies to cook with but never drank.

    The fact is, wines, once purchased, cannot be re-sold except at auctions, and most experts will tell you that, while rare wines may increase in value over decades, they are never a particularly profitable investment.

Custom-made wine storage rooms make a certain amount of sense for restaurateurs, although with such constant turn-over  and the urgent intent to sell old and new bottles, few wines are going to remain in that room for very long. Usually a restaurant  will do just fine with a room with air-conditioning and a humidifier to keep things constant. And in most of the restaurant cellars I’ve visited, the decorous embellishments are few or non-existent beyond walls of sturdy wooden racks. Some use them for private dinner parties where guests are supposed to be awed at the lavishness of the cellar, like the Hotel Bellwether's at right.

    By the way, in those dreadful incidents where a restaurant has suffered a fire, even if the million-dollar wine cellar is untouched, all bottles will likely be condemned for possible smoke damage by the local fire department, whose members gladly cart them away  by the case. Rest assured, then, that you are unlikely to have problems with wines going bad under any reasonable conditions. Better yet, buy them and drink them. Life is too short not to. 

 

 





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"You don’t need to be Willy Wonka or own a chocolate factory to make your own candy bars. It might sound intimidating, but chocolate bars are simple to make. Plus, doing it yourself gives you the freedom to add your favorite toppings and flavor combinations so they’re exactly how you like them. It also can be fun to get your kids involved and let their confectionery creativity flow. The final result can be shared with loved ones as a tasty treat – or kept in your secret sweets hiding spot for you, and only you, to enjoy."––"Making your own candy bar is simple" by Cody Godwin,  USA Today

 






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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             








              

MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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