|
MARIANI’S VIRTUAL GOURMET April 19, 2026
NEWSLETTER Founded in 1996 ARCHIVE ![]() Erika Marozsan in "Gloomy Sunday" (1999)
❖❖❖
WHAT'S IN A CREOLE NAME? By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER BENJAMIN'S STEAKHOUSE IN WHITE PLAINS By John Mariani THE BISON CHAPTER EIGHTEEN By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR DO YOU REALLY NEED A CUSTOM-DESIGNED WINE CELLAR? By John Mariani ❖❖❖
WHAT’S IN A CREOLE NAME?
![]()
Most Americans are
familiar enough with the oddities of foods
with names like hot dogs (which should contain
no dog), hamburgers (which contain no ham) and
may well wonder how Caesar salad, the Reuben
sandwich, and Buffalo chicken wings got their
names. But
nowhere is the nomenclature of indigenous food
more puzzling than in New Orleans, where a mix
of local dialects and influences from French,
African, Italian, Spanish, and Indian
languages have coalesced into a patois that
takes a long time to get to understand, unless
you’ve grown up within the sound of the bells
of St. Louis in Jackson Square.
So if you go to N’awlins (the local
pronunciation) you’d better go with this
little dictionary of terms, so that when
someone offers you some “mud bugs and dirty
rice,” you don’t make a face. Oysters
Rockefeller (above)—These
luscious bivalves cooked with watercress,
scallions, celery, anise, cream and other
seasonings were created in 1899 at Antoine's,
one of the oldest restaurants in America
(opened in 1840). The dish was so called
because the mixture of oysters was so lavishly
rich that proprietor Jules Alciatore named the
dish after the richest man in the world at
that time, John D. Rockefeller (who never ate
at Antoine's). The recipe is still a secret,
though mimicked all over town, so Antoine's is
still the only one to make the one true
version of this dish.
Bananas
Foster--an
outlandishly extravagant dessert of sautéed
bananas with butter, brown Panéed—A
French-Creole term for the technique of pan
frying meat or seafood that has been breaded
or otherwise coated; it is not deep-frying,
and the oil must be just hot enough to
set the crust on the food.
Mudbugs—A
local colloquialism for crawfish, which is
itself a local pronunciation for crayfish. Since
these crustaceans inhabit muddy waters they’ve
received the name with arch affection. They’re
also called creekcrabs, yabbies, and cheval du
diable (French for “devil’s horse”). Crawfish
étouffée refers to the French word for
braising, and in New Orleans refers to a
gently cooked food--in this case, fat,
luscious crawfish set over steaming rice.
Calas.
These yummy little breakfast rice cakes mixed
with sugar then deep fried and served with
honey take their names from an African word
for “fried cake.” They were once hawked on the
streets of New Orleans' French Quarter by
vendors who sang out in Creole French, "Belles
calas tout chauds!"—“beautiful, hot
calas!” Today they are rarely made except at
the Coffee, where they're served daily with
cane sugar syrup and chicory coffee. Muffuletta—A
Creole version of the hero sandwich, only
here the bread is round and about the size of
a deflated basketball, stuffed with Genoa and
mortadella salami and cheeses and then dressed
with pickled olives. It
is said to have originated at the Central
Grocery Co. on Decatur Street, where Salvatore
Lupo came up with the idea back in 1906 and
gave it the name of a similar sandwich made in
his native Sicily. Take one home on the plane
and make the other passengers envious.
Beignets--These
light, fluffy Creole French fritters (the name
means “pillows”) are wholly addictive, despite
the inevitable risk of showering of their
powdered sugar topping all over your clothes.
It is sacrosanct tradition to eat them--at any
time of day or night--at the Cafe du Monde
with a cup of their strong chicory coffee, Gumbo--The
very sound of the word "Gumbo" makes you think
of its African origins, and the word is Bantu
for okra, a common ingredient in this cross
between a soup and a stew. You can get
terrific gumbos made with crawfish, shrimp,
sausage and vegetables all over town, but why
take a chance? Head straight for the Gumbo
Shop, which does more kinds better than anyone
else and has a lovely antiquarian charm that
makes this a favorite spot to dine casually. Shrimp
rémoulade--Basically
this is just boiled shrimp with a spicy
mayonnaise and mustard dressing that in New
Orleans often acquires the addition of
hard-boiled eggs and parsley. It is one of the
many traditional dishes found at Galatoire's,
where it is served cold. Pain
perdu—This
is French for “lost bread,” referring to a way
to use stale bread by making it into either
French toast or a bread pudding of amazing
richness and lots of caramel. My
favorites are the traditional homestyle
version made at Mother's and the white
chocolate bread pudding at the Palace Café for
which I'd walk the length of a streetcar line
in July.
Macquechou—No
one has ever ascertained where the name for
this dish of corn, onion, peppers and milk
came from, but some believe it was brought to
Louisiana by the Spanish with the name machica; others
think the word comes from the French
colloquialism maigrichou, for “thin
child,” though that doesn’t sound right. Dirty
Rice—Simply
because this rice dish riddled with cooked
chicken livers and gizzards attains a
gray-brown appearance, it has come by this
lowly name. Petticoat
tails—This
cookie with a scallop-shaped edge has a
fascinating linguistic history, which begins
in the court of Queen Mary Stuart of Scotland
(1542-87), who was much influenced by the
French court, where these cookies were called
petits gâtels or petit gateaux—“little
cakes.” Scottish immigrants brought the cookie
to New Orleans, altering the pronunciation to
“petticoat tails,” and the name stuck because
the edges do have the look of a petticoat hem.
❖❖❖
NEW YORK CORNER
BENJAMIN STEAK HOUSE By John Mariani ![]()
Little
things add up in a good restaurant. You arrive
and are cordially greeted and shown to your
table past a handsome bar into an elegant,
polished dining room, its spacious tables well
set with white linens and thin stemware, salt
and pepper grinders, candlelight. There's a
fireplace and a wall of wine.The black leather
chairs and brown banquettes are comfortable.
There is no
pounding music played. The moment you sit down a
busboy brings a basket of bread rolls, butter
and olive oil. The highly experienced waiter
asks if anyone wants a cocktail. The pace of the
courses is smooth. Portions are deftly doled
out. Plates are warmed. Wines are at the
right temperature.
Put all these details together and you have
a restaurant like Benjamin Steakhouse, whether
it’s one of two in Manhattan or the newer version
in the Westchester suburb of White Plains. Then
add in the finest beef, abundant side dishes and a
wine list with more than 1,000 selections and you
have something quite special––even though all is
as it should be.
The New York steakhouse model varies by
design and service, once barebones décor and gruff
waiters. Now there is far too much competition to
rest on those outdated ideas, and, as I’ve had
ample reason to extol, many of the new steakhouses
are run by eastern Europeans well-schooled in Old
World service.
In the case of Benjamin, the owners
Benjamin Prelvukaj and Ben Sinanaj and director of operations Victor
Dedushaj run their restaurants with the same
aplomb once found at places like ‘21’ Club and The
Four Seasons, and the nightly full parking lot in
White Plains indicates a clientele who expects
nothing less. I’m always
partial to an Iceberg lettuce wedge with dried
Canadian bacon, cherry tomatoes and blue cheese
dressing and the lobster bisque is more lobster
flavor than cream. The whole lobsters weigh
in at a hefty two pounds, shelled quickly at the
table to keep the flesh warm. There are
also four fish items each night. Desserts are as
full-bodied as the rest of the menu, The owners of
Benjamin also run the new Seafire Grill
overlooking the Hudson River that I wrote about
several months ago, which has become a destination
spot for the Tri-State Region. The White Plains
branch of Benjamin’s replicates the original’s
largess and service but does so in a more
spacious, relaxing atmosphere that draws guests
from across the Tappan Zee Bridge and south from
Connecticut for all those reasons of classic
hospitality so often missing these days in food
service. Incidentally,
you
won’t find a better fixed price three-course lunch
at $44.95 than here, especially now in springtime
in the glass-in porch at Benjamin’s. Open for
lunch and dinner daily. ❖❖❖
THE BISON By John Mariani ![]()
Donald Trump, Melania Knauss,
Jeffrey Epstein and Ghislaine
Maxwell
CHAPTER EIGHTEEN
Rather
than go into a room where they would
normally grill a suspect, Rush brought
them to his own office, which had a couch
and two chairs, with a coffee table, file
cabinets and a peg board on one wall.
“Now,” Rush said, “you told us before
you came from a ‛troubled home,’ and that
you were molested at the age of seven by a
family friend.”
“And who was Ron Eppinger?” asked
Rush.
❖❖❖ NOTES FROM
THE WINE CELLAR
By John Mariani ![]() Custom-designed
cellars by Genuwine Cellars
The
romance
attached to having a beautiful wine cellar done in
polished mahogany with tile floors, air-conditioning
and humidity controls is a pretension of rather
recent vintage––a rich American connoisseur’s dream.
Indeed, the rich European connoisseurs, including
those who actually own wine chateaus, store their
wines in musty old cellars, often hung with cobwebs,
à la Edgar Allen Poe’s short story “The Cask of
Amontillado,” in which a host seals up his enemy
behind a wall in his wine cellar (left).
The simple answer is, in most
cases, no.
“A wine cellar is rarely just about storage,” says
Robb Denomme, founder
and CEO of Genuwine Cellars,
that since 1995 has designed and constructed over
10,000 bespoke projects. “For the
serious collector, it's a preservation environment.
For the entertainer, it's a statement. And for many
homeowners, it sits somewhere in the middle, a
curated space that reflects their relationship with
wine and, to a meaningful degree, their taste in
design. There's a reason the traditional cellar has
endured: It appeals to something instinctive in the
way we think about wine: the patience, the history,
the ritual. When you walk into a well-built
traditional cellar, you feel it immediately.”
Which sounds like a swell idea, but it will cost you
plenty, and the “preservation” factor may not be of
any real consequence unless you’re hoarding
fifty-year-old cases of Lafite-Rothschild and
Romanée-Conti.
Since most wine lovers drink wines within
days, weeks or months of purchase, there’s no reason
to worry about the temperature or the humidity
in your house or apartment. No one keeps their
living quarters or cellar at 90 degrees, so anything
below 80 degrees does no harm.
In my
own experience I can count on the fingers of one
hand the number of bottles that had gone bad over
the last fifty years I’ve been storing them in my
concrete-block house cellar (below) with pine
shelving, where the temperatures range from about 60
degrees in winter and 70 in summer. I do have a
de-humidifier just to take prevent the cellar from
becoming musty
The ironic thing about building a $50,000+ wine
cellar, however beautiful, is that stocking case
upon case of rare wines is rather silly unless you
either intend to drink all of them (assuming you
don’t re-stock) or plan to will them to your heirs,
who may or may not like wine very much. I once knew
a woman who used her late husband’s rare Burgundies
to cook with but never drank.
The fact is, wines, once purchased, cannot be
re-sold except at auctions, and most experts will
tell you that, while rare wines may increase in
value over decades, they are never a particularly
profitable investment. Custom-made
wine storage rooms make a certain amount of sense
for restaurateurs, although with such constant
turn-over and
the urgent intent to sell old and new bottles, few
wines are going to remain in that room for very
long. Usually a restaurant will do just fine
with a room with air-conditioning and a humidifier
to keep things constant. And in most of the
restaurant cellars I’ve visited, the decorous
embellishments are few or non-existent beyond walls
of sturdy wooden racks. Some use them for private
dinner parties where guests are supposed to be awed
at the lavishness of the cellar, like the Hotel
Bellwether's at right. By the way, in those dreadful
incidents where a restaurant has suffered a fire,
even if the million-dollar wine cellar is untouched,
all bottles will likely be condemned for possible
smoke damage by the local fire department, whose
members gladly cart them away by the
case. Rest assured, then, that you are unlikely to
have problems with wines going bad under any
reasonable conditions. Better yet, buy them and
drink them. Life is too short not to. ❖❖❖
"You don’t
need to be Willy Wonka or own a chocolate factory
to make your own candy bars. It might sound
intimidating, but chocolate bars are simple to
make. Plus, doing it yourself gives you the
freedom to add your favorite toppings and flavor
combinations so they’re exactly how you like them.
It also can be fun to get your kids involved and
let their confectionery creativity
flow. The final
result can be shared with loved ones as a tasty
treat – or kept in your secret sweets hiding spot
for you, and only you, to enjoy."––"Making your own
candy bar is simple" by Cody Godwin, USA
Today ❖❖❖ Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven
(21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and
for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance,
inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find
this to be a treasured favorite. The story
concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and
their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their
barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise.
But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and
the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring
his master back from the edge of despair. WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish.
Contributing
Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical
Advisor: Gerry
McLoughlin. If you wish to subscribe to this
newsletter, please click here: http://www.johnmariani.com/subscribe/index.html © copyright John Mariani 2026 |