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MARIANI’S Virtual
Gourmet APRIL 26,
2026
NEWSLETTER ARCHIVE ![]() Los Angeles Roadside Eatery
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THE INTIMIDATED AMERICAN DINER By John Mariani THE BISON CHAPTER NINETEEN By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR ARGENTINE MALBECS DESERVE RECOGNITION By John Mariani ❖❖❖ THE INTIMIDATED AMERICAN DINER By John
Mariani
![]() Orson Welles and Patrick Terrail at Ma Maison People who say that "No
one wants to eat at fine dining restaurants
anymore" are usually people who have not the
acumen or manners to do so. It’s not about the money, for
those who blanche at the thought of spending $200
for a meal in Paris with wine (including service
and tax) will readily spend that at a steakhouse
where a Tomahawk steak alone runs $150 at Morton’s
in New York.
No, the real reason Americans
scoff at going to fine dining restaurants both
here and abroad is because they feel intimidated
by a lack of knowledge and anxiety over how
they’ll be treated. And
many should feel that way because they
have not taken the least trouble to find out what
to expect and how to act in a posh restaurant.
French Restaurant Syndrome (FRS) is
particularly prevalent when Americans go abroad,
fearing their own ignorance will make them feel
inadequate. They believe that the outdated
stereotype
If, by any chance, you do feel a bit
intimidated by the fine dining experience––and it
is an experience that requires
rapport––here are some suggestions to ease your
anxieties.
2.
Always
make a reservation, and for that ask your hotel
concierge to make it for you and to relay to him
any special requests you may have––a special
occasion, a quiet table, a table on the terrace.
These are more readily granted, when available,
via a concierge who works with these restaurants
every day. 3.
Consider going to lunch, which
in even the most storied restaurants are more
likely to have an empty table. 4.
Many fine dining restaurants in
Europe have only one seating at night, and they
may not even open until seven PM. So don’t ask for
a 5:30 or 9:30
table, although the latter is fine for a
bistro or trattoria.
10.
State your allergies or likes
and dislikes, even if you are a vegetarian.
Vegans, however, will find it nearly impossible to
dine at such restaurants and will surely frustrate
the chef’s efforts to please you. 11.
Learn the simple rules of
etiquette with silverware: There will rarely be
more than an appetizer fork, tablespoon, fork and
knife, though knives
may be different for either fish or meat. 12.
If you do fancy yourself a
gourmand or connoisseur, never try to flaunt it or
show off with pretentious commentary in front of
the staff, who already know what you are spouting
about. ❖❖❖ THE BISON By John Mariani ![]() CHAPTER NINETEEN
Katie
reported into Dobell who told her, “I’m
warming up to this story but only if we can
get inside the financial dealings. Rich guys
accepting Epstein’s hospitality has got to
result in favors, political or monetary.”
Katie immediately phoned Unitas, who was
only to eager to meet with her. When she
arrived at the dealership he was waiting for
her just inside the door. He was in his
forties, in good shape, with a comb-over and
goatee, wearing suit pants and a pink shirt
with white collar.
David called
Rush and asked him if there were any bankers
he could speak to about Epstein’s money
transfers, but Rush reminded him
that no one was going to speak to him if he
wasn’t a cop or a reporter.
❖❖❖ NOTES FROM
THE WINE CELLAR
ARGENTINEAN
MALBECS
DESERVE By John
Mariani
![]() Rio Negro, Patagonia
Who knew?
April 17 has been declared Malbec World Day, at
least according to WoFa (Wines of Argentina),
which is understandable since the country is the main producer of the varietal,
with nearly 110,000 acres of
vineyards cultivated by 200 wineries, making up
22.4% of the total cultivated area in the
country.
Malbec almost didn’t survive
the phylloxera plague of the 19th
century in French vineyards, where it was planted
in Cahors (where Malbec was called "Côt.")
Argentina has also
been turning out some impressive Garnacha,
Semillon and Marsanne, but the wines you’ll most
likely find in U.S. wine stores will be Malbecs.
I tasted several this week and
found that they are much more appealing than the
since recovered wines of Cahors, which tend to be
inky and tannic. The Argentine examples
were very fresh and ready to drink, although a
2022 Crios ($15), from the Valle de Uco,
Mendoza, had
clearly mellowed, while its acid kept it lively
and, at this price, a real bargain. At 14% alcohol
and
minimal oak it is in impeccable balance.
Cuchillo de
Palo Malbec 2024 ($30) has 5%
Petit Verdot added to the Malbec for a perky
fruitiness, and 2024 was a year of ideal warm
but not intensely hot weather, with gradual
grape ripening. It is aged for 16 months in used
oak barrels, so it has only a faint flavor of
the charred wood. I can see drinking this with
just about any meats this summer, including
poultry. ![]() Salentein
Reserve Malbec 2023 ($22)
has a fine complexity, coming out of the Uco
Valley, aged for one year, six months in stainless
steel, six months in oak, which is a good
equilibrium of freshness and mellowness. I like
the fruitiness combined with a little pepper on
the back of the palate, so it would be delicious
with lamb, veal and chicken as well as spicy
pastas.
Finca Canal
Uco 2022 ( $100).
If
you wish to
make the leap to the top ranks of
Argentine Malbec, Finca Canal Uco, made by the
Zuccardi family, is
worth the price. It is a high altitude estate
(3,608 feet above the Uco Valley) irrigated by a
canal that draws from the Tunuyán River. The
vintage was a cool year, allowing for good
ripening of sugars. The wine was aged in
concrete vessels with a finesse provided by
winemaker Laura Principiano. Lovely herbal notes
complement the fruit.
![]() PC GONE WILD "The current steakhouse revival cannot be publicly politically neutral. According to Alicia Kennedy, 'It is a collective fever in which the right wing, masculinist approach of the carnivores has found a palatable way into polite society.'"––Eater.com ❖❖❖ Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.
The Hound in Heaven
(21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and
for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance,
inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find
this to be a treasured favorite. The story
concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and
their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their
barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise.
But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and
the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring
his master back from the edge of despair. WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish.
Contributing
Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical
Advisor: Gerry
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