MARIANI’S

 

Virtual Gourmet

MAY 3, 2026                                                                                             NEWSLETTER

Founded in 1996 



"Abbott and Costello in the Navy" (1941)


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THE DOLLAR MAY BE WEAK,
BUT YOU CAN STILL EAT GREAT FOOD
IN EUROPE CHEAPLY
By John Mariani




THE BISON
CHAPTER  TWENTY

By John Mariani

NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
MY ANNUAL ROSÉ REPORT,
PART ONE

By John Mariani



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THE DOLLAR MAY BE WEAK,
BUT YOU CAN STILL EAT GREAT FOOD
IN EUROPE CHEAPLY

By John Mariani

 

       Imagine eating at one of the best and oldest trattorias in Rome and paying just €12 for spaghetti all’amatriciana, €15 for saltimbocca alla romana and €10 for a pizza margherita. If those sound like prices from the 1990s, think again: Those are the prices being charged right now at Trattoria Vecchia Roma (left), which opened in 1916. At the slightly more upscale La Carbonara on the Campo di Fiori, the signature pasta costs €17 and osso buco €20. And that includes tax and service. In other cities and towns prices may be even lower for glorious regional fare.

       Frankly, I don’t know how they do it––maybe they all own the buildings––but despite the swing in the value of the US dollar, you can still eat sumptuously at very little cost. Add in a bottle of the vino della casa, and you’re out the door spending less than $100 for two people.

       But it’s not just in Italy that you find such low prices. In Eastern European countries like Hungary, Poland, Croatia and others prices are amazingly low. In Budapest you can nosh your way through the dozens of food stalls at the Central Market (right) at Fővám Square, built in 1897, now sprawling over 11,000 square feet on two floors, for a few dollars. Across the river you can feast on Hungarian comfort food at Pest-Buda on traditional dishes like chicken paprikash with  buttered noodles for $22, goulash for $20 and apple strudel for $11.50.

       Vienna is not the cheapest city in Europe, but you can dine very well at very modest prices, especially at any of the grand cafes on the Ringstrasse. One of the best known restaurants for its Wiener Schnitzel is Plachutta (left) where they sell the dish with potato salad for €25 and a glass of sparkling  wine is €8.50.

       Throughout France the bistros and brasseries cater largely to the locals, who expect excellent French cuisine at reasonable prices. In Strasbourg every traditional restaurant serves choucroute garni––a huge portion of sausages, sauerkraut and potatoes––and typical is the one at Le Tire-Bouchon, where it sells for €24.

       The same is true in Paris where the average Parisian rarely dines at the haute cuisine level restaurants frequented by tourists. At Le P’tit Bistro onion soup is €13 and boeuf bourguignon €23. On Montparnasse the brasseries like La Rotonde, La Coupole, Le Dome and Le Select compete with each other and balance their menu prices accordingly. At La Coupole you can share a dozen oysters for €29.50, Burgundy snails for €12.50 and beef tartare for €19.50.

       
     On my most recent trip to Spain I found the prices don’t seem to have budged for years. Of course, you can go on a place-to-place trail of tapas bars anywhere, sampling a wide array of small dishes for a few dollars each. On Madrid the Mercado de San Miguel (left) is rife with eateries offering everything from Iberian ham to paella at very low prices, and at a cerverceria like Tineo in the Plaza Mayor, I enjoyed
 a plate of grilled langoustines and paella a la Valenciana (below) with Mahou beer, all for  €35. In the beautiful seaside city of Santander my friend and I sated ourselves with white asparagus, potato croquetas, baby lamb and half  suckling pig that could feed four for €56 at Asador Lechazo Aranda.

           Again, I remind you that these prices include tax and service so there’s no need to add a 20% tip. So, while it’s true that you can eat at three-star restaurants in Europe for €400 per person, some of the best food in big and small cities on the continent are easily found for one-eighth that price.

        

      

 



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THE BISON
By John Mariani



                       Donald Trump, Melania Knauss, Jeffrey Epstein and Ghislaine Maxwell

CHAPTER  TWENTY

        At about two o’clock David spotted Vargas’s silver Mercedes coming up SW 14th Avenue, stopping in front of his brothel. He was alone, dressed all in a white guayabera shirt and wearing a Panama hat. As he started up the steps to the house he heard a car door slam loudly and someone call out, “Vargas!”
       He turned around and saw David leaning against his rented car.
       “Ah, Señor Greco, nice car you drive. Did they upgrade you to a compact?”
       David walked across the street and noticed someone peeking through the blinds on the house windows.
       “I suspect you heard about my incident with a tarantula,” he said.
       “I did,” said Vargas, smiling. “But apparently you survived.”
       “Healthy as a horse.”
       “Well, there are many more tarantulas in Florida. You should be careful.”
       They were now face to face, about a yard apart.

       “So, what you going to do now, Greco? Try to beat me up out in the open on a street in Calle Ocho? Not a smart thing to do.”
       “No, much as I’d like to, but maybe someday I will.”
       “Ah, you’re going to hang around Miami till you see me walking down a dark alley then strangle me, eh?”
       “The thought has occurred to me. But, y’know, Vargas, I thought of a better use for a piece of shit like you. I’m going to ask for your help in exchange for your staying out of jail for trying to kill me.”
       Vargas smiled. “And how is that? You want me to give you Susannah for a week, free of charge?”
       David clenched his fists. “No, I want you to help me put Epstein in jail, for a very long time.”
       “And why would I want to do that? Señor Jeffrey is a very good client.”
       “I’ll tell you why,” said David. “The cops, the FBI and the IRS are closing in on him, and they are going to want to know where these underage girls came from. I know that Madam Sanchez didn’t pimp them.”
       Vargas stopped smiling and said, “Maybe you should ask Jeffrey’s girlfriend, Ghislaine. She arranges everything for him. Often she brings in the girls by herself. Other times she calls me.”
       “That’s exactly what I’m saying. If the authorities get what they need on Epstein, he’s probably going to try to cop a plea and tell them everything he knows about people like you. You can be sure he’s not going want to spend twenty years in a federal prison. Of course, you’d go to a state prison and you definitely don’t want to do that kind of time.”
       “And just how do I help you?”
       “First of all, think about turning state’s evidence, get ahead of Epstein. Because they’re going to get you too. It’s just a question of how cooperative you are rather than pull down twenty years for yourself. Second thing I want you to do for me—not the police or  the feds—is tell me about how the money is moved around.”
       “Why should I know that?”
       “Because Epstein and Ghislaine pay you directly, the party-goers don’t. And I have a real suspicion that you help Epstein launder other money for him down here through various local businesses and through JP Morgan.”
       “I think you think I’m a bigger fish than I really am, Señor.”
       “No, I think you’re a little shit, but you do very nicely on Epstein’s money. You’re not getting rich on pimping three or four call girls, who might turn a couple of tricks a night. And I also suspect that many of the rich guys who meet one of your girls at Epstein’s parties want to see them again, over here at your place. If you co-operate with me and with the authorities on that wrinkle, it’s only going to be to your advantage. They’ll force you to shut down the house but they won’t go after your real money that you get from Epstein. As a matter of fact, Vargas, I think that in its own sleazy way, your whorehouse is just a front nobody much cares about, including the local police. You probably pay them off anyway. Oh, and needless to say, stop trying to murder me. If you do I’ll go back Plan A, which was to rip you to pieces in some dark alley.”
       Vargas shrugged and said, “This proposition of yours. Why should I cooperate with you rather than the local police I know very well?”
       “Because you might buy off some cops but you’re not going to buy off Terry Rush or the D.A. You haven’t got that kind of money or clout. All I want out of your thick skull is the name of a banker you deal with at JP Morgan.”
       Vargas laughed. “They never going to talk to you. Why should they? But I tell you what, Greco. I give you the name of a guy who used to work at Morgan. He got fired; I have no idea why. Maybe because he’s Puerto Rican, not Cuban. But he was one of the guys who handled Epstein’s account, so he might talk to you or that sexy reporter you hang around with. I give you that, you get off my ass.”
       “And leave you to the police and the feds. I tell you, if this guy works out and speaks to me, I’ll leave you alone. I don’t have any reason to stick around this damn town. I don’t know you can stand this goddamn heat and humidity.”
        “Just livin’ la vida loca.”
        Vargas then went silent, looking up and down the street and back at his house, then said, “Okay, I give you the name. But if he don’t want to talk to you, ¡No me mires, tu maletín!
        David understood: “Don’t look at me, that’s your problem.”
        “Okay, so what’s this guy’s name?”
        “Jorge Ortega.”“And where do I find him?”
        “Banco Nuevo, on Biscayne Boulevard.”
        David wasn’t going to thank Vargas, saying only, “I hope this works out in your favor. Every time I see a spider from now on I’m going to think of you.”
        Vargas just smiled and turned to go up the steps.
        “Say hello to Susannah,” said David.
        Vargas just shook his head. “Crazy bitch.”

      
    David walked back to his car, which was roasting hot, and turned the a/c up high, then looked up the address of the Banco Nuevo, in downtown Miami. He entered and asked a security guard if Jorge Ortega was there. The man pointed to a cubicle across from the tellers’ counter.
           “Mr. Ortega?”
           “Yes, how can I help you?” He was short, dark, with a pencil mustache, wearing a light blue short-sleeve shirt and black slacks.
              David explained who he was and who sent him over and why he was there.
           “Yes, our friend Señor Vargas told me you were coming.”
       “He’s no friend of mine,” said David, “but he said you might be willing to help with some information about Jeffrey Epstein and his relationship with your former employer, JP Morgan.”
       “Ah, Señor Epstein seems to be in  a lot of hot water these days. Local, federal. And the IRS. And why should I talk with you?”
       “Because Vargas said you were probably pretty sour after Morgan fired you. You mind telling me the reason?”
       Ortega eyed David carefully and said, “Let’s just say I questioned some of their banking practices with regard to Señor Epstein.”
       “And do you think Epstein had a hand in getting you fired?”
       Ortega laughed. “Of course he did. Epstein is in tight with the CMO, Jes Staley (right). Whatever Jeremy wants, Staley delivers.”
       “Why would Staley risk  so much for Epstein?”
       “First of all, Staley made a lot of money from working with Jeffrey. Just as important, though, was that he was tied into Jeffrey’ s sexual fantasy world as much as anyone. Jeffrey would send him photos of naked young girls, and Staley would show them to some of us at the bank.”
       “Including transfers of illegal funds?”
       “Legal, illegal,  they amount to the same thing. If they were only Jeffrey’s funds, the problem of detection would be easily contained. But Jeffrey was taking other people’s money—many very powerful people. . .”
       “I’ve heard the names” said David.
       “Okay, and these people would give their money to funnel into secret accounts around the world, especially the Caribbean.”   
        “And how did that work with Vargas?”
        “Vargas is a nobody,” said Ortega “but he’s in with the Miami mob that can launder the money. The mob takes a cut, Vargas gets a few pennies and Jeffrey’s name is never attached to any of it.”
        “But he knows about the mob?”
        “Absolutely. This is not money that’s going to be spent building parking lots in Wynwood. It’s cash to be stored away so that if there are any investigations of these individuals they can say they don’t even have any accounts, no numbers the feds or IRS can trace. If they do try to find out about accounts in the Caymans or the Bahamas they will face a hostile response from their banks. And even if those banks gave out the account info, the mob has them hidden under layers of names impossible to trace.”
        “So, how did JP Morgan figure in all this?”   
        “Jeffrey would call up his contacts at Morgan—I was one of them—and after we got an okay from Staley, we would temporarily hold the money, take a little cut. The people wanting the money hidden would get it to Jeffrey and he would turn it over to Morgan. Then Vargas or someone else withdrew that money and got it to the mob and they got it laundered.”
        “By what methods?” asked David, who had broad knowledge of mob laundering.
        “They’d break up the money amount into smaller amounts and put it in different banks. Banks are required to report large deposits that exceed $10,000 or those they deem suspicious. That’s small change for these guys. So the amounts are always less than ten grand and get bundled. Then they get mules to carry out the laundering. Vargas was also a mule.”
        Mules, David knew, were individuals hired  by the launderers literally to carry the money to where they want it deposited. Often mules have no knowledge of what they are doing illegally.  David figured Ortega’s story was the truth  because the New York mobs did much the same thing, never meeting the powerful figures trying to hide the money.
        “So why did you raise flags?” he asked.
       “Because the amounts were getting so large and were being brought in so frequently, I thought the bank might get in real trouble. First time I said anything, they told me to shut up. Second time, I was fired. I was stupid.”
       “What about Banco Nuevo?”
       “Here I deal mostly with Puerto Rican depositors, investors, try to help them out. The Cubans have no interest in that. I sleep better now.”
       David was not surprised by the laundering techniques but now had a source who said how deeply entwined Epstein, the investors, the bank and the mob were, and without any one component the whole process couldn’t work.
       “Do you mind if my associate, a very good reporter from McClure’s Magazine calls you about what you told me?”
       “Off the record, sure. I’ll tell this story in court but not for attribution.”
       “I have to ask: Why did you agree to talk to me?”
       “I thought it best after Vargas called me. I like to stay on his good side. He’s dangerous.”
       “Did you ever hear anything about him being a henchman for Epstein? Ever strong-arm someone for him?”
       “Like I said, Señor Greco, I want to stay on Vargas’s good side. And now please let me get back to work.”

 

 


 
© John Mariani, 2024






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NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR




MY ANNUAL ROSÉ REPORT,
PART ONE

By John Mariani



 

    Funny thing about rosés: Nobody really ever speaks about vintages the way they do about red and white wines. And for the most part wine writers rarely speak about rosés at all until springtime, when  rosés sprout like, well, roses. So, here is my annual rosé report.

    First of all, as for those vintages, they matter little because winemakers do not use their best red grapes for their rosés. Depending on the region, which is usually in a warm climate, a rose might be made with Grenache, Syrah, Malbec, Cinsault and Mourvèdre in France; Zinfandel in California; and Negroamaro, Primitivo, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, Corvina and Nerello Mascalese in Italy.

    Second, there are at least four ways to make a rosé: 1. Maceration of the skins and seeds, as with red wines but not leaving them on the lees very long ; 2. The Saignée (“bleeding”) method, which is a by-product of making red wine in which the grapes macerate for 48 hours, then the juice is  drained from the bottom of the tank to create a rosé  darker in colour and fuller in body; 3. In direct pressing the grapes are crushed and pressed in the same way as white wines, so you get a pale rosé and light body with good fruit. 4. As of  2009, the European Union has allowed blends of red and white wine to be called "rosé.”

In Champagne white Chardonnay blended with red Pinot Noir has long been standard.

    I have never had a problem drinking rosés year-round, but in spring and summer they are so bountiful as to make them a good aperitif as well as with dishes with light flavors, like fish and poultry. Some rosés are too sweet, others too dry, and there is an increasing number of non-Champagne sparkling roses worth trying. Prices have been creeping up, though.

 

BY.OTT 2025 ($25). An odd name from a famous Provençal producer, Domaine Ott (established 1912 and now owned by Louis Roederer), with 60% Grenache, 25% Cinsault, 4% Syrah and 4% Rolle grapes culled from Château de Selle  and Clos Mireille.  It has a lovely pastel pink color and more fruit than some other Ott rosés like their Étoile.

 

VENTESSA PINOT GRIGIO ROSÉ 2024 ($11). A unusual rosé from Trentino in Northern Italy, made from Pinot Grigio grapes, usually made into white wine. But the varietal (a relative of Pinot Noir)  actually has a reddish hue, so this rose gives somewhat more  citrus fruit and aroma, with just 9% alcohol. It’s quite a buy.

 

ALMA ROSA VIN GRIS OF PINOT NOIR, SANTA RITA HILLS 2025 ($40). As noted above, Pinot Grigio, or Pinot Gris, is derived from Pinot Noir, and with this California beauty, the grape clusters are pressed with no skin contact, left to settle for 48 hours then racked off into stainless steel for fermentation, emerging at a bold 13% alcohol. It’s a lot of money for a rosé but it’s also more complex than many others. Excellent with grilled salmon.

 

DEMETRIA  ESTATE ROSÉ 2025 ($35). Grown in California’s Santa Ynez Valley, Grenache is widely planted there on high elevation hillsides. A bit of Counoise and Cinsault are added to the pressing the aged for six months in stainless steel and neutral oak that adds an underpinning of flavor to add to the nuances of fruit and bouquet.
 


LA CREMA MONTEREY PINOT NOIR ROSÉ 2024 ($20). Made from 100% Pinot Noir, at 13.5% alcohol, this is a formidable rosé at a good price. It picks up some of the ocean salt and minerality from the terroir that adds to its layers of flavors. A good match for pork as well as  seafood.

 

 

COPAIN LES VOISINS ROSÉ  2024 ($38). A Mendocino offering of 100% Pinot Noir grapes, this is for those who like a dry style rose with good acidity. Pair it with smoked salmon or mild cheeses.


 





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"At some point within this text, I will reveal to you what—after 555 responses, 13,000 miles of travel, and months of monomaniacal research—I have determined to be the best free restaurant bread in America."––Caty Reader, The Atlantic (May 2026).



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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             








              

MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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