MARIANI’S

 

Virtual Gourmet

JUNE 14,     2026                                                                                            NEWSLETTER

 


Founded in 1996 

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COVER OF SUNSET MAGAZINE (July 1940)


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PRACTICAL FATHER'S DAY GIFTS
By John Mariani

NEW YORK CORNER
EL QUIJOTE

By John Mariani


THE BISON
CHAPTER  TWENTY-FIVE

By John Mariani

NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
WINE BOOKS MAKE GOOD GIFTS

By John Mariani



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SOME PRACTICAL
FATHER'S DAY GIFTS

By John Mariani

 

    Also known as the “Day for the Forgotten Man,” Father’s Day might well be celebrated by allowing one’s father to do what he wants and only what he wants. Gifts, however, are appropriate and the more useful the better. Those shown below might well be appreciated by either sex, but these have a certain masculine cast that would buoy a father’s heart and let him make a better dinner outside.

BAKER'S SIGNATURE 5-PIECE STAINLESS STEEL MIXING BOWLS WITH LIDS ($53). The problem with so many mixing bowls is that they are unstable on the counter while working in them. These well-designed bowls are steady, have an air-proof locking lid and stack into each other flush to the top for easy storage.



CUTLUXE BUTCHER KNIFE SET ($103). Serious cooks never seem to own enough knives but they are very particular about their quality and specific to a task. Cutluxe makes a wide range of models, but this three-knife set is unusual in that you get a brisket knife, a breaking knife and a boning knife of professional quality German steel. The ergonomic pakkawood wood handles assure a good grip. A very good price for these three.


WOODENHOUSE CHARCUTERIE BOARD SET WITH TRAY ($46). Compacting utensils is essential in the kitchen, where space is always a problem. This beautiful bamboo board comes with a hidden slide-out tray containing a fork and three cutting knives for cheeses, and on top two bowls for condiments. There are also marking slate labels to identify the cheeses. Very easy to clean.




STAINLESS STEEL BENTO BOX
($38). Plastic bento boxes may be a dime a dozen or you could just use your old take-out containers.  But this is a very smart, very durable, very washable box for kids' meals. The interior is stainless steel, the silicone exterior food-grade and BPA-free.  Foods won't easily spill over the three segments and because you never toss it out, it's eco-friendly  and non-porous. For grown men, it's ideal to take on a camping trip, and it comes in eight colors.




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NEW YORK CORNER


EL QUIJOTE

226 West 23rd Street

212-518-1843

By John Mariani

     It’s been four years now since the once run-down, scruffy Chelsea Hotel, which opened as co-op apartments in 1885 before taking in guests as of 1905, was renovated, including its El Quijote restaurant, which has been here since 1930.
       Back then a “Spanish” restaurant meant something closer to a Cuban restaurant like El Chico, El Flamenco, Fundador, Seville and Havana-Madrid, all long gone. Upon its re-opening in 2022 El Quijote was cleaned up without destroying its original funky charm, including a neon sign out front,  a dining room with a white tile floor and a folkloric mural depicting Don Quixote as he prepares to joust with a windmill.
    Beyond another wall is the lively bar. Given the ebullient  crowd that comes here both for the true Spanish food, special cocktails and the vibe, El Quijote can be very loud, especially when they blast thudding music. So, on a beautiful mid-May evening, our party opted to take a table outside, which allowed for easy conversation and the pleasure of watching the passing parade of people on broad West 23rd Street.
    The menu begins with some tapas  and first courses, so the listings at the top include a tangy-sweet savory pan con tomate of toasted country bread smeared with garlic, olive oil and a rich tomato confit. There is certainly Spanish ham, either  Serrano or Ibérico ham cut to order in gleaming, ruby-red slices.

    Pulpo adobado is tender octopus with potatoes and paprika-colored adobo seasoning. I can’t get enough of the puffy croquetas de chorizo (right) that look like fried Twinkies but contain potato, crumbled chorizo sausage and Mahon cheese. The tortilla de patata is an omelet with crushed potatoes that would be lovely for brunch or lunch.
    You could even make a meal out of the fat patatas bravas with spiked tomato garlic sauce.  Very good for summer is the endive, apple, cheese and caramelized honey vinegar salad. 
    They use the plancha griddle to wonderful effect, coaxing all the flavor from gambas al ajillo (left),  blue, heads-on prawns with plenty of garlic, olive oil and assertive seasonings that infuse the shell and the body meat completely. So, too, fideuá de setas  is a classic of toasted angel hair spaghetti snapped into short pieces and baked like paella in a casserole with marinated mushrooms and piquillo peppers that buoy the smoky flavor of the pasta.
      If paella   (below) is one of the defining tests of a Spanish kitchen’s mettle—at least in Valencia, where it’s prepared seaside over an open fire—El Quijote’s is a generous portion with traditional seasonings, but surprisingly  it lacked the sought-after crispy burned rice on the bottomcalled soccarat.
    A party of two can readily indulge in the “Daily Double” of a ten-ounce ribeye and a European lobster called bogavante, with pimenton butter and a mixed salad.
    El Quijote’s desserts are true to form:  A flan of caramelized custard with olive oil (below); rice pudding with vanilla, cinnamon, and orange; and a swirl of toron nougat ice cream with caramelized pecans. 
      
The wine list, overseen by Claire Paparazzo, is not long but is solid with modern Spanish labels, and the sangria is really delicious, flavored with cinnamon and given a sweet-sour edge with balsamic vinegar.
       Hard as it is to believe, New York is not rife with Spanish restaurants, and El Quijote brandishes its authenticity with authority, plus a good dose of downtown Chelsea cool.


Open for dinner nightly.

 




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THE BISON
By John Mariani



                       Donald Trump, Melania Knauss, Jeffrey Epstein and Ghislaine Maxwell


CHAPTER TWENTY-FIVE


David didn’t like the way Katie sounded when she called him on the phone to ask if she could come up to his house. He detected anxiety at least, fear perhaps. Perhaps Dobell had killed the idea for the story. In any case, he was always delighted at the prospect of her coming to his house, which he decided needed some cleaning up before she arrived.
       It was a crystal clear early winter’s day in the Hudson Valley, with high scudding clouds and sunshine that reflected off the mantle of sparkling  snow that lay over the Palisades and hills of Orange County. Icicles hung from the eaves of David’s house and he had, fortunately, time to plow his driveway before she arrived on a trip that would take her about two hours.
    David thought about what to make her for lunch. He drove to a nearby market where he picked up some cold cuts, shrimp and a bouquet of flowers. Back home he put a bottle of Trebbiano d’Abruzzo in the freezer for an hour. He shaved and put on a fresh shirt he tucked it into his chinos.
    As she always did, Katie beeped her red Fiat’s horn three times as she approached, and it was one of David’s favorite sounds. He came out to the driveway and opened his arms wide. Katie got out and gave him a hug somewhat firmer than was usual. She was wearing a pea jacket under which she had a black sweater and bluejeans.
    “Come on in,” said David. “It’s freezing out here.”
    They went inside and David took Katie’s coat.
    “Hope you’re hungry.”
    “I could eat. I could also use a glass of wine.”
    “Coming right up,” he said, thinking there was no joy in her request.
    “So, what’s going on?” he asked. “Anything new on the article?”
    “There’s some,” she said. “I had an interesting phone conversation with Donald Trump. Big blowhard, thinks he knows how to charm the press, especially if you’re a woman.”
    Katie told him how the interview went as she sipped the white wine while David started to cook a  dish of spaghetti with shrimp cooked in garlic, oil and lemon.
    “You sound a little down, Katie. Feel all right?”
    “Yeah, I’m fine, but, I have to tell you, I’m feeling a little queasy.”
    “About what?”
    Katie then told David what had happened in the office and how Sheridan insisted he was not going to sell the magazine.
    “Well, that’s encouraging,” said David.
    “Indeed it is. But I’m a little worried as to why someone wants to buy McClure’s immediately and offer so much money for it. Alan thinks it must be some tax dodge that needs to be concluded by a certain date.”
    “Sounds reasonable. What do you think?”
    “I think this somebody wants to buy the magazine in order to stop us from investigating Epstein and his cronies, because for damn sure they all know we’re looking into their activities.”
    “You mean fire you as soon as he gets hold of the magazine?”
    “At the very least.”
    “But you could easily go to another magazine with your story.”
    “That’s what bothers me, David. He needs me gone, permanently.”
    David was not really surprised by her assertion. “He could do that without buying the magazine. But like I’ve said before, killing off a cop or a journalist usually turns out to be bad for business.”
    Katie’s temper flared. “Y’know, I’m tired of hearing that from you. Both of us have almost been murdered five times while we’ve been on a story!”
    All David could muster in response was, “True, but in my case I’m not longer a cop, so I’m fair game. And all those attempted murders were outside the U.S., where the bad guys seem to have a more liberal attitude towards knocking journalists off.”
    “So I’ve noticed,” said Katie, then, “Hey, I’m sorry I snapped at you. I’m just on edge.”
    “I can tell. I mean, it makes sense that these guys don’t want your story to get out, but they don’t strike me as the types that murder people. Not even Epstein, but I could be wrong about him.”
    “What about Vargas acting on his behalf?”
    “I think Vargas is a strong-arm man but he’d probably botch a murder. He sure sent the wrong spider after me.” 
    Katie shook her head and said, “I sure hope you’re right. I’m getting real pissed about people trying to kill us.”
    David said nothing but brought the steaming plates of pasta to the table and poured more wine.
    “Eat. Y’know, once during World War II when Churchill’s people told him the Germans had just bombed Coventry, he is reported to have said, ‛Well, then, let’s have lunch. Everything looks better after lunch.’”
    “Stiff upper lip, eh? Said Katie. “Maybe the wine will help.”
    “So we keep working on this story, right?”
    Katie smiled, “Here’s to us! May no one try to knock us off this time!”
    They clinked glasses and David said, “That would make for a nice change of pace.”
     Katie did feel better and even took a nap on the couch before the fireplace after finishing the wine. David cleaned up the kitchen and just sat down and watched her sleep very soundly, saying to himself, “I’m not going let anything happen to this girl.”               

 

The next morning Katie put in a call to Dobell, asking, “Anything new on the sale of the magazine?”
    “Only that it’s still not for sale. Whatever happens in the next two to three years may change that if these on-line blogs and newsletters cut too deeply into magazine profits. But since McClure’s suitor demanded an immediate sale, I think we’re all pretty safe.”
    “Well, that’s a relief, she said.”
    “You still believe there’s an assassin lurking around to get you? You stock up on Mace?”
    “I don’t know. I talked to David and he made me feel that it’s a possibility, but a remote one. The question is, you want me to continue to research this story?”
    “Hell, yes. It’s still research, not yet a story, but if anyone can put the pieces together, it’s you.”
    Katie thanked Alan and promised she’d do her best.
    From outside Dobell’s office Donna Druley called out, “Katie, there’s a phone call for you at your desk.”
    “They say who it was?”
    “She said her name was Susannah.”   
   
“Susannah? It’s Katie Cavuto. What’s up?”   
   
“Something you need to know.”      
      
Katie opened her notebook and clicked on the recorder attached to the phone.
      
“Something bad happened to one of Jeffrey’s girls,” said Susannah, who sounded on the verge of tears and scared.
      
“What happened?”
      
“This girl I knew, her name was Sarah. Ghislaine recruited her a few months ago from, I think, Texas. She was like sixteen, beautiful blond, blue eyes. And. . . and she was. . . murdered.”
      
Susannah broke down in tears, and Katie said nothing until she recovered, then asked, “By one of Jeffrey’s guests?”
      
“Yeah, that pig Pierce.”
      
“Angus Pierce? The South African?”
      
“Yeah, any time he came to the States he’d be with Jeffrey either in New York or Palm Beach.”
      
“So how did it happen?”
      
“Pierce was into very kinky sex, bondage and shit. Also he drugged the girls, sometimes with angel’s dust or get them like real out of it with pain killers like Oxy. And apparently he overdosed her, and now she’s dead.”
      
“How do you know this, Susannah?”
      
“Like I said, I knew her pretty well, and we’d talk on the phone like every few of days. So when I didn’t hear from her, I called one of the other girls and she said that Sarah had been murdered by Pierce and Jeffrey had the body removed.”   
      
“Do the police know about this?”
      
“Not yet. I  wanted to call you first, then I’ll call them. But I’m scared, Katie. If Jeffrey finds out it’s me who called the cops, he’ll come after me. I’m going to need protection.”
      
“Have you told Sanchez? Asked Katie.
      
“Not yet.”
      
“I think that’s what you should do first. Then call this police officer David and I have been working with in Palm Beach, name is  Terry Rush. I’ll call him first if you like.”
      
“Maybe you should. Do you have to tell hm my name right away?”
      
“No, but I really want you to call him. He’s trying to nail Jeffrey every way he can.”                           Susannah said she’d do that after speaking to Sanchez.
      
“And, Susannah, you call me after you speak to Sanchez and Rush, okay? Any time you want to talk to me, day or night.  And what was Sarah’s last name?”
      
“Doyle. Sarah Doyle.”
      
“And do you know where her parents are?”   
      
“I don’t know, somewhere in Texas, maybe Houston.”
      
“Okay, I’m going to follow up on what you’ve told me, so sit tight. And I’d try to keep away from Vargas, if I were you.”

       “Oh, I know. If anyone’s going to hurt me it will be him. I think I can stay with Señora Sanchez meanwhile.”

 

 

 


 
© John Mariani, 2024







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NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR



WINE BOOKS FOR SERIOUS WINE LOVERS

By John Mariani



    There are plenty of wine books in the "101 Basics" category and others that are encyclopedic. A very few aim at a very sophisticated wine lover who wants to learn more than what bottle goes well with what dish.  Here are three.

 

One Thousand Vines: A New Way to Understand Wine (Mitchell Beazley) by Pascaline Lepeltier is as comprehensive and up to date about world wine culture today as we’re likely to find for quite some time. It is full of well-wrought information on  history, science, microbiology, ecology, geology, terroir and label mythology.   It is divided into three parts: "Reading Vines," "Reading Landscapes," and "Reading Wines," and she can turn you into a connoisseur of the kind who shuns snobbery for deep knowledge when it comes to tasting, smelling, and serving wine and warns against the media’s overuse of “minerality.” Lepeltier is young, dynamic and passes on her enthusiasm with a genteel notion that wine is to be enjoyed, not just talked about.







Your Tasting Brain: A Sensory Approach to Wine, Beer, and Other Pleasures (U. of Chicago Press) by Randy Mosher is not for the novice, for this volume, out of the U. of Chicago Press, is an in-depth investigation of how the brain actually processes smell, taste and mouthfeel, and that it grows deeper and more attuned as much with wine as with beer and food. He treats of acidity, sugar, heat and cold, and notes how vague and even nonsensical reviews can be of beverages, noting “as rich as language can be, it often feels woefully inadequate for the job of tasting.” This is not an easy book to wrap your arms around, with chapters titled, “The Wonder of Multimodal Sensory Perception” and “Neuroanatomy,” but  the underlying advice is soundly based on extensive research.

 

 

A Taste for Wine: A New Tasting Masterclass for Wine Lovers (Mitchell Beazley) by Rose Murray Brown. The author is a Master of Wine––one of only 425 in the world––so she knows of what she speaks, and this book is a good deal more relatable than Your Tasting Brain, above. It is based on “self-guiding tasting practices,” and provides up-to-date info on critical topics like climate change, which may well get to extreme levels. There is also a section focusing on 51 regions’ top producers, varietals and wineries open to visits. One of its best features is the number of  photos that make her point, page after page. And she’s a joy to read.

 






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TRAVEL WRITING 101: BLOCK THAT SIMILE!


"The futon, laid out by a woman who moved through the room like a poem, did not impress him."––"The Summer My Father Finally Sat Still" by  Ravi Kapur , |World Travel (May 18, 2026)







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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             








              

MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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© copyright John Mariani 2026




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