MARIANI’S

 

Virtual Gourmet

AUGUST 30, 2026                                                                                            NEWSLETTER

 

 


Founded in 1996 


ARCHIVE



Ron Howard,  Candy Clark and  Charles Martin Smith "American Graffiti" (1973)


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A SPECIAL ANNOUNCEMENT
30th ANNIVERSARY OF THE VG!



NEW YORK CORNER
PAPA SAN

By John Mariani


THE BISON
CHAPTER  THIRTY-SEVEN

By John Mariani



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A Special Announcement

    Hard to believe, but Mariani's Virtual Gourmet Newsletter is now 30 years old, established  in 1996 when online newsletters were a brand new thing during the height of the .com era and three years before the word "blog" even existed. I have always tried to provide readers with the most up-to-date information and the most authoritative editorializing as well as the finest graphics, so it is my great pleasure to announce that I am aiming for the next three decades of the Virtual Gourmet to be even better, more inclusive and have some new additions that may stray from the world of food and wine, but then one can also be a gourmet of the arts as well. There will always be a weekly Travel/Food feature, New York Corner and Notes from the Wine/Spirits Cellar. In addition to continuing to publish my crime novels, I will from time to time also be publishing chapters of my non-fiction books that I hope you will find interesting and informative. You will not find any political commentary.
    For those snoots who have on occasion suggested that I stick only to writing about food and wine, I might just add that well before I started doing so I  had acquired my doctorate from Columbia University in English literature, and taught college courses in everything from Chaucer to cinematic history. I also interviewed and profiled scores of film actors and directors, from Henry Fonda to Sylvester Stallone.
    Let's see how it goes, and I'm happy to receive emails at john@johnmariani.com or through Facebook. Here's to another 30 years of doing what I love to do and have been lucky enough to do so.
    With gratitude  I'm proud to note the remarks of some remarkable people about this newsletter, and I plan to live up to their expectations.
    And remember, always take the cannoli.

“No one writes about food and wine as compellingly, knowledgeably, and authoritatively as John Mariani. When I was a young journalist starting out, John’s writing was more than just an inspiration for me; reading him was a lesson in just how good American writing could be. In fact, it would not be an exaggeration to say that when it comes to food and wine journalism in America, we have John Mariani to thank for showing the rest of us the way."––Karen MacNeil, author of The Wine Bible.

 

 



“John Mariani has remained one of the most influential voices in food and wine for decades. I always look forward to his weekly Virtual Gourmet newsletter as a trusted resource with engaging and important anecdotes about our industry.”—Eric Ripert, chef/owner Le Bernardin

 


“A highlight of my Sunday is receiving my online copy of  Mariani’s Virtual Gourmet Newsletter. In his own indefatigable way, week after week, he dependably churns out solid ideas for travel, dining and wining – some of which are new to me, and others of which are timely reminders of favorite places I’ve perhaps missed for some time – but that remain relevant. Over many years I’ve found a great overlap between John Mariani’s discerning taste and my own, and when I have time to dine in other peoples’ restaurants, I know I can turn to his list, confident that I’ll be making a very good choice.”—Danny Meyer, USHG

 

 


“John Mariani’s Virtual Gourmet is an indispensable resource of engaging culinary news and knowledge. I eagerly await each weekly issue, and always learn something valuable while also being entertained. It’s a treat the John shares a lifetime of insights with us.”— Drew Nieporent, Myriad Restaurant Group

 

 

“John Mariani’s Virtual Gourmet has been my most reliable andtime-tested  resource for finding   food destinations worthy of  a visit. One of our most respected food and wine authorities, John  Mariani’s writing has inspired and entertained me, always revealing hidden gems in restaurants and chefs. I never leave on a trip without checking John’s recommendations first. A tireless, intrepid diner with deep curiosity and knowledge John Mariani remains one of our most gifted culinary writers.”—Michael Lomonaco, Chef/Owner Brasserie Cognac Americain.  

 

 

“Having known John Mariani for over 40 years and having had the privilege of collaborating with him on various projects I can attest firsthand to his unparalleled expertise and unwavering dedication to the culinary arts. Mariani’s Virtual Gourmet Newsletter stands as a beacon of quality and reliability in the ever-evolving landscape of the food and wine world. His profound understanding of the restaurant industry, garnered through decades of experience and insight, shines through in every issue. John's keen eye for culinary trends, coupled with an unyielding commitment to excellence, makes the Virtual Gourmet Newsletter an indispensable resource for chefs, restaurateurs, and food enthusiasts alike. It is, without a doubt, one of the leading pulses in the industry.”—Walter Staib, Host of PBS-TV’s “A Taste of History.”





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                                    NEW YORK CORNER



                                                                            PAPA SAN
                                                                       501 West 34th Street
                                                                            929-822-5264

      

       Papa San, opened last year, is a spectacle of restaurant on the ground floor of the 66-story building called The Spiral, with 146 seats, 30-foot glass windows, hanging greens and both  modern and traditional elements like Peruvian quilts and textiles, with a long open bar and a  dramatic spiral staircase leading to a 20-seat private dining room. The restaurant’s name, for some reason, comes from The Clash's song "Straight to Hell": "Wanna join in a chorus of the Amerasian blues//When it's Christmas out in Ho Chi Minh City/Kiddie say, papa papa papa papa papa-san, take me home.”

       Partners Juan Correa and chef Erik Ramirez, who also run Llama San in Greenwich Village, are expanding on the Japanese-Peruvian elements of Nikkei cuisine and of Japanese izakayas. The Japanese connection to Peru began  back in 1899 with the arrival of immigrants from Yokohama seeking a better life. As always happens, the new arrivals brought elements of their own cooking to their new country, including sushi, while the real boost came when chef Nobu Matushisa married chilies to sushi at his restaurant in Beverly Hills, now a worldwide restaurant group.

Papa San is open for lunch Monday through Friday; for brunch Sat. & Sun.; for dinner nightly.

 

 

 


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THE BISON
By John Mariani



                                   Donald Trump, Melania Knauss, Jeffrey Epstein and Ghislaine Maxwell



CHAPTER THIRTY-SEVEN

 

       Over the next two days Katie and David were only too happy to meet further with the St. Moritz police, while Baldassari was having a field day in her columns about what had happened to what she called “two intrepid and very brave Americans from McClure’s magazine”—which would make Dobell giddy—and how the Pierces were exposed as criminals. Her syndicated column was already being cited in media around Europe.

       “The Pierces,” she wrote, “have been a long-time presence in St. Moritz, living in a huge, somewhat gaudy chalet in Engaden named Springbok, after South Africa’s national animal. The elder Pierce, Angus, whose media holdings are international,  has maintained a fairly reclusive presence in town aside from visiting those few friends he enjoys seeing, and he has never been part of the Corveglia crowd. Richard Pierce, on the other hand, has been very much a part of the social whirl, and, as a very eligible bachelor, has been the object of affection among all the young lovelies who frequent the Kings Club and the new clubs and bars in town. On his arm have been the whole social strata of the season, including the very blond Baroness Marianna von Üdet and oddly Goth British model (right).”

       She went on to quote both locals and visitors who knew the Pierces, whose remarks ranged from “It could not possibly be true” to “I’m not in the least surprised.” Baldassari managed to reach two women who had dated Richard, one of whom said he was “always the perfect gentleman,” the other contending “his sexual tastes bordered on the sado-masochistic.”  Others said that he was a frequent user of cocaine.  No such allegations had ever found their way into Baldassari’s columns before, which never dug far beneath the surface of her subjects’ behavior beyond reporting the break-up of a marriage or love affair. She had only mentioned the drug usage among the rich in passing and never pointed a finger.

       Katie and David were happy to see that Baldassari’s reporting was accurate as far as details they’d imparted to her. She had also reported verbatim what the police were willing to say about the case, which alleged that there did seem to have been an attempt on the lives of the two Americans at the Pierce residence and that the father and son had been arrested and arraigned within twelve hours. Bail had been set at one million Swiss francs and the two men’s passports taken away.

       Katie had been reporting in to Dobell, who’d had his staff collect info on his side of the Atlantic. Epstein’s representatives and lawyers had no comment. Robert Maxwell’s son Kevin expressed shock and said the admission to Pierce’s murdering his father was a long time in coming.

       Katie asked Dobell, “Has anyone spoken to Ghislaine?”

       “We tried to reach her but haven’t gotten a call back yet,” said Dobell. “Maybe you should make a call.”

       “Maybe I should. David thought it a bad idea, but if you say so, I’ll call her.”

       “Go ahead then. I await any further updates. Stay safe, Katie.”

       Katie hesitated for an hour before calling Maxwell, jotting down questions and attaching her recorder to her mobile phone. When she called the private number Maxwell had given her, an answering machine came on with Maxwell’s voice saying she would return the call. Five minutes later she did.

       “I assume you’ve heard all the news about the Pierces,” said Katie.

       “I certainly have, and I’m devastated they tried to murder you and David. Not that I think they’re beyond such a thing—I already told you I’ve always believed Angus had my father killed and warned you to be careful—but this is still shocking.”

       “So, you heard that Angus Pierce admitted he had ordered your father’s murder.”

       “Yes, and hearing the truth get out is tremendously satisfying for me. I don’t know Swiss laws but I assume they can use that admission to indict Angus for that murder, too. Although maybe that’s another jurisdiction.”

       Katie took a deep breath, then asked, “And, given what Pierce said happened with Richard and the girl who died at Jeffrey’s party, you still think it was an accident?”

       “That’s what Jeffrey told me, and what Pierce  told you. I don’t know anything more about it.”

       Katie went silent, putting Maxwell ill at ease.

       “I will say this, Katie. I will ask Jeffrey again about what happened that night, and if I find out anything more, I will let you know. But Jeffrey wouldn’t lie to me about such a thing.”

       “Then did he tell you what happened to the girl’s body?”

       Now it was Maxwell who went silent, then, “As I said, I’ll let you know if I hear anything further.”

       “And do you think Jeffrey will talk to the press or to me?”

       “No. Jeffrey doesn’t speak to the press. He made an exception with you. He doesn’t trust you people for good reason.”

          “Sounds like a two-way street, Ghislaine. The press doesn’t trust him either, even if he gets away with”—she almost said “murder”—“a lot of questionable behavior.”

       “If that’s what you want to believe, Katie, go right ahead. Listen, I’ve got to go. I’ll call you if I learn more. Take care.”

       Katie didn’t believe a word Maxwell had said, especially the last two words.

 

 

       It was not lost on Katie and David that the only way to kill the indictments would be to kill off the two of them, which to the people involved seemed more crucial than ever.

       “The police said they wanted to give us 24-hour protection while we’re in Switzerland,” said Katie.

       “Par for the course,” said David. “Since we never laid eyes on Boris, he might still be in the game.”

       “You don’t think the police have knowledge of a Russian assassin in St. Moritz?”

       “He might have been shipped in by Putin just for the job and got on a plane back to Mother Russia the next morning. The police can check with the airlines. Not much to go on, though.”

       “How many Russian assassins could be lurking around St. Moritz? It’s a pretty small town.”

       “Yeah, but it’s full of a lot of very rich people who travel with their own bodyguards wherever they go. One of them might like to make some extra Swiss francs.”

       “Okay, I’ll take the protection, and let’s just stay close to the hotel until we leave town. I booked our return for two days from now.”

       “Maybe they’ll poison the schnitzel,” said David, “or have a German shepherd go for our throats.”

       “Please, David, don’t. I don’t want to be threatened anymore. I think I’m going to go home and become gardening columnist for a small town newspaper.”

       “Hey, Katie, that was my plan. It’s something I know a whole lot more about than you do.”

       “Maybe we can co-author it. I’ve always wanted an excuse to buy a pair of those rubber Wellington boots.”

       “Well, if McClure’s ventures into horticulture, we’d be a shoe-in.”

 

 



 
© John Mariani, 2024






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BE CAREFUL WHAT YOU WISH FOR

Hellmann's Mayonnaise announced the winner of the honor to be called "America's Sandwich" to be the Philly Cheese steak, based on more than 10,000 sandwich fans participated, casting nearly 100,000 votes throughout the competition. Unfortunately foe Hellmann's the classic Philly cheese steak contains no mayonnaise.

 








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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             








              

MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani.  Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

If you wish to subscribe to this newsletter, please click here: http://www.johnmariani.com/subscribe/index.html



© copyright John Mariani 2026




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