MARIANI’S


Virtual Gourmet

JUNE 21, 2026                                                                                            NEWSLETTER

 


Founded in 1996 

ARCHIVE




Catherine Deneuve
 





❖❖❖





DINING OUT IN LISBON, Part Two
By John Mariani

NEW YORK CORNER
LE BERNARDIN

By John Mariani


THE BISON
CHAPTER  TWENTY-SIX

By John Mariani

NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR

HOW PORTUGAL'S RED WINES HAVE BECOME
COMPETITIVE IN THE WORLD MARKET

By John Mariani



❖❖❖



DINING OUT IN LISBON, Part Two
By John Mariani




ÀCosta


   
      Vasco da Gama may, thanks to sixth grade world history, be Portugal's best known figure, famous for his astounding voyage all the way around Africa and the Cape of Good Hope to India, beginning an unchallenged monopoly on that route and establishing a spice trade that brought pepper and cinnamon to Europe when it was starved for Eastern flavors that would become part of Portuguese cuisine. These and other spices and seasonings are the underpinnings of a gastronomy already rich in seafood. In the past century, however, the cuisine has remained traditional but not inherently spicy and chile peppers are a rarity.  But in the present century this has changed in Portugal as young chefs and entrepreneurs adopt and adapt to a world now rich in spices from every region of the world.


     ÀCosta by Olivier (Avenida Infante Dom Henrique A) is a splendidly modern dining room devoted to seafood from Portugal’s waters, as interpreted by Chef-owner Olivier da Costa, with a superb view of the marina  next to Terriero do Paco on the Tagus River. It is very elegant but wholly relaxed, and, especially in the evening, becomes a very romantic venue with tall walls of windows, oval-shaped hanging mirrors, well-set tables and a superb wine list. At lunch there is an amazingly well-priced Executive Menu at 29 euros and special dishes each day. 

    There is also a kind of steam table buffet of hearty, rustic working man’s fare, whereby you heap meats and vegetables atop white rice.

   
    With friends I enjoyed an extensive lunch that began with an array of translucent ceviches and a tower of shellfish. Sweet red rock shrimp came with roe and sliced potatoes, then steamed clams cooked in white wine and plenty of garlic cloves. A perfectly roasted, meaty sea bass followed, then a hefty. dark Portuguese cozidas stew of sausage, meats and rice.


    Pao de lo was the first dessert––a kind of puffy pancake made with just eggs, sugar and flour, not unlike a Dutch baby breakfast item; then a very traditional cheese cake and rich chocolate mousse, enjoyed with a glass of five-year-old Madeira Boal. 
       In all ways decorous, hospitably and tastefully, ÀCosta has become a beacon for the modern Lisbon restaurante.


 

    Tucked away on Rua Portas de Santo Antão, the beautiful Casa de Alentejo (left) was built as the Alerca Palace in the 1600s and later became Lisbon’s first casino. In 1943 it was turned into a social club favored by people from the Alentejo region, and today within its majestic walls are two dining places, one a stately and tranquil  Restaurante set in two rooms of Moorish décor that is particularly popular with Lisbon's business people as well as for family dinners and parties for up to 250 people. The menu is classic Portuguese with dishes like acorda soup made with pieces of stale bread, garlic, cilantro and poached eggs; Pica pau of marinated beef in garlic sauce with pickles and olives; and a “rich man’s  fidalgo cake for dessert.

Also on premises, the very casual Taberna (right) is in an open courtyard with a menu of tapas, migas sandwiches, fish and meats cooked on the plancha, and daily specials like mushrooms with ham and cod fitters.  

 



Even more down-home, so to speak, is the delightful and always jammed Restaurante das Flores (Ruas das Flores 78), whose food could not be more basic or traditional. It is a small but not cramped room with ten small tables for 21 guests, tile floors, paper table coverings and a wall of wine. By all means have your concierge make a reservation.

I sat down to a basket of good bread and ordered an ice-cold draft beer. Quickly came a platter of pork falling from the bone with juicy blood sausage and Portuguese chorizo, which is softer than Mexican.  I also had another platter  of cod with stewed greens and buttered boiled potatoes topped with garlic cloves.  

Afterwards, just across the street is one of Lisbon’s best modern coffee houses, Fabrica (Rua das Flores 63), which started as a small family business and now shops their products worldwide.      










❖❖❖






NEW YORK CORNER





LE BERNARDIN
155 West 51st Street
212-554-1515


Photo by Daniel Krieger

 

Every year for the past two decades my wife and I have celebrated our anniversary at Le Bernardin, and every year we come away convinced that, after forty years in business, it is a finer restaurant than ever.

One need not take my word for it, since Le Bernardin appears at or near the top of every authoritative list of the world’s finest restaurants, ever since Maguy and Gilbert Le Coze opened a branch of their Paris original in New York, at a time when French haute cuisine had been coasting and bereft of new ideas.

The Le Cozes took a leap of faith in making Le Bernardin an all-seafood restaurant, serving fish from American waters and immediately shook the fine dining scene to its core. Chef Gilbert championed raw seafood, creating a carpaccio of  thinly pounded fillet of fish in a vinaigrette that was soon to be copied everywhere.

Sadly, Gilbert passed away in 1994, but his disciple and close friend Eric Ripert (left, with Maguy) seized the banner and carried on, evolving but never compromising Le Bernardin’s mission.

The restaurant itself is as stunning as ever with a modernity that will never go out of style right down to the unobtrusive tables for a woman to put her handbag.  The reception by manager Tom Dzelalija and his staff is as amiable as any in the city. The sommeliers, led by Aldo Sohm,  is always attentive to each guest’s preference and budget. Ripert’s kitchen crew, headed by culinary director Eric Gestel and executive chef   Antony Gray, oversee a brigade drilled in the virtues of respect for the ingredients and accuracy of cooking times.

We always give ourselves over to them, expecting not only the very best of their efforts but a balance of the old and the new. The Chef’s eight-course Tasting Menu is $350, with a four-course prix fixe at $220. A three-course lunch is a very reasonable $139.

Quite frankly, describing each dish at length is hardly necessary because the incorporation of the ingredients themselves bespeak the degree and inventiveness of Ripert’s sense of harmony. Our dinner began with bite-size shima-aji striped jack sashimi on a plate with crunchy finger lime mini-roll and a sudachi citrus vinaigrette. Next a perfectly sauteed fat langoustine (rightwith a butternut squash in a spiced squash-yuzu broth. Slowly baked salmon with a silken texture was topped with caviar, and sauced with a horseradish emulsion. Charred baby leeks and saffron sauce with hollandaise gave a benediction to poached lobster, while tilefish was baked and served with stuffed zucchini and an Asian coconut-and-green curry sauce (below). Truffled morels and wild mushroom bouillon cuddled snow-white poached halibut.

All of it was so light that our appetite had not slackened for desserts–-a kiwi and lavender sorbet and coconut buttermilk granité, then Harry’s Berries strawberries from a family-owned farm in southern California in a vanilla Chantilly cream.

       Impeccably paired with this superb meal were a Paul Laurent, Cuvée du Fondateur, Épernay, Brut, NV; Grüner Veltliner, Sohm & Kracher, Alte Reben, Weinviertel, Austria, 2024; Meursault, Domaine Vincent Latour, Clos des Magny, Burgundy, France, 2023; Nuits-Saint-Georges, David Duband, Burgundy, France, 2023, and Sauternes, Château Coutet, Bordeaux, France, 2004.

No mistakes at all? If I must quibble, the baguette rolls were not crisp, the "caviar" is from China and one of the white wines was served too cold. That’s about all I can think of.

Reservations are not impossible to come by, but plan ahead. (Tables for August are now open.) Or you might sit in the romantically appointed lounge and order any of nine à la carte dishes offered there by just walking in.

Sitting at the broad table each year at Le Bernardin, putting ourselves in the hands of a team of masters, we basked in the sure sense that, at least at Le Bernardin, a genteel style of dining is still possible in New York, if somewhat rare these days. To be unique means not just very good or even great; it means one of a kind, and in that respect no other dining experience in the city can match it.

 

Le Bernardin is open for lunch Mon.-Fri.; Dinner Mon.-Sat.





❖❖❖


THE BISON
By John Mariani



                       Donald Trump, Melania Knauss, Jeffrey Epstein and Ghislaine Maxwell



CHAPTER TWENTY-SIX

 

 

       Katie rushed into Dobell’s office and told him the news. Dumbstruck—not a response she’d seen often in her editor—he said, “There’s an old saying in the news business about public figures: ‛You can get away with anything, but just don’t wake up in bed with a dead woman or a live boy.’ But how do you know Susannah’s got this story right?”
       “I don’t, but it would be very dangerous for any of the girls to talk about what happened.  I guess we’ll have to let Rush handle that.”
       Dobell shook his head and said, “I’m going to have to think this through as to where we go with the story.”
       “Understood,” said Katie, “but I think things are going to move very fast now.”
       “Well, I think you should consider trying to contact Pierce. And stay out of Florida for the time being.” 

 She went back to her desk and called David the news.
        “What do you think we should do next?” she asked.
       “I think Dobell’s right about your staying put in New York for now. Let me talk to Rush and see what he says. Maybe I can go down there and snoop around.”
       “Okay, but right now I want to get in touch with Ghislaine, see if she responds if I tell her about the murder.”
       “What about Pierce?”
       “I doubt I can get to him. I’ll make the attempt, but if Rush brings any charges against him—which could take a long time or never happen—he’ll probably hole up in South Africa or somewhere that’s not going to extradite him.”
       “You got that right,” said David. “So, maybe it’s just you and me who have to do a bit more digging. Let’s wait to hear Rush’s reaction, then go from there. I’ll call him, if you want.”
       “I think that’s better. He trusts you and you can ask all the kinds of cops’ questions I wouldn’t think of.”
       “Okay, I’ll call Rush and you call Ghislaine. Good luck with that.”
       Katie called Maxwell but only left a message about needing to speak to her about “new developments.” An hour later, Maxwell called back.
       Without a greeting, Maxwell just said “So what are these new developments, Katie?”
       Katie had planned how to tell Maxwell what she knew, not in an accusatory way, for she still believed Maxwell wanted to disassociate herself from any possible culpability in the police investigation.
       “It seems there’s been a murder in Palm Beach of a teenage girl who my source says had been frequently at Jeffrey’s parties. Possibly even lived there.”
       “You have a name?”
       “Sarah Doyle, supposedly from Texas.”
       There was a pause, then Maxwell said, “Well, I’m sorry to hear about this alleged murder, but that name means nothing to me. I’ll ask Jeffrey, but I doubt he knows anything about her. Some of these girls, you know, just come and go. The men bring them to the parties, so I have no idea who they are and don’t ask. But I’ll try to find out something about this Doyle girl, okay?”
       Katie didn’t believe a word of Maxwell’s plea of ignorance, though she doubted Maxwell would have had any participation in something so sordid—and criminal—even for her. Then Maxwell said, “Is there any suspicion about who might have committed this alleged murder?”
       “My source says that Angus Pierce might have been involved.”
       Silence again, then, to Katie’s surprise, “If anything like that did happen, it wouldn’t  shock me if Angus was involved. He and Jeffrey are very close, but I have no use for the man for personal reasons. It’s been a bone of contention between Jeffrey and me for some time.”
       “May I ask why?”
       “As I said, it’s personal reasons. Oh, nothing like he tried to rape me, nothing like that, but it’s not something I care to have bandied about in the press. Now you’ll have to forgive me, I’ve got an appointment in fifteen minutes. But I will ask Jeffery about this allegation.”
       Katie said she’d appreciate it and said she’d call if she had new information. After hanging up, she thought that Maxwell’s revealing her antipathy for Pierce had been yet another step in extracting herself from the thunderbolt that was about to hit Epstein.
       With Virginia Giuffre on her way back to Thailand, Katie thought there was no reason to contact her as yet. For the moment, while waiting for David to check in, Katie thought she’d better see what more she could find out about Angus Pierce.

 

Katie’s research revealed that Angus Pierce (left) had come from the legacy of those Afrikaaners who had not fared well under the Anglos. He grew up poor  in Krugersdorp, once a profitable mining town whose principal company and employer had been shut down in 1929. Pierce’s father swore his son would never go down in the mines and so Angus worked odd jobs. He actually sold newspapers on the street as a child, did well in high school and through benefactors at the Jehovah’s Witnesses Center was able to attend the prestigious Stellenbosch University, majoring in metallurgy. After fits and starts on various businesses, Pierce was able to buy a small chain of South African newspapers that he parlayed into radio and television stations powerful enough to broadcast across a significant part of the African continent.
    Known for his ruthlessness, he would take over weak papers and stations, combine them, shut some down and spread his reach to other countries, eventually to India and the Middle East, where he was said to have strong relationships with a slew of Arab princes for whom he helped build networks like Al Jazeera. Pierce was also rumored to be a close advisor to  Russian President Vladimir Putin, who had been courting favor in African countries. 
    Along with Rupert Murdoch (above) and  the late Robert Maxwell (above), Pierce was considered one of the powerful media men in the world, with a fortune exceed $5 billion, and the three of them seemed always jockeying to buy each other’s properties, even simply to shut them down when competing with their own.  Which is why Time magazine featured them on its cover with the title, “The Bison of World Media”—not a moniker anyone would attach to Condé Nast’s S.I. Newhouse (left) or Hearst’s William R. Hearst III (right).
 After Maxwell’s paper the 
European, a London-based English-language weekly circulated throughout Europe, started to lose money, Pierce attempted to buy it out from under him, as well as the New York Daily News that Maxwell had also purchased. That same year, 1991, Maxwell drowned.
    Back at her apartment that night, Katie was trying hard to put all the pieces together. If Susannah’s report of the murder, which she said she’d heard about from girls at Epstein’s estate, and if Pierce was the one who did it, did that meant he was capable of murder or that a night of intense rough sex had  led to a girl’s death accidentally? Obviously if Pierce ever was accused, that’s what he would say, that things had just gone too far or that he had no idea how many drugs the girl might have taken.
    But then it occurred to Katie that perhaps Epstein’s “very good friend” was in fact capable of murder and that Maxwell’s hatred for him might be based on her belief that Pierce had something to do with her father’s death at sea. And if Pierce was capable of causing that murder, anyone investigating him for the crime might be in danger of being eliminated as a witness.
    Thinking along those lines, she began to think that the mystery buyer of McClure’s might actually be Pierce, who, if he got hold of the paper, could kill the story or the magazine itself, then go after Katie and David.

 

With Druley’s help, Katie looked up contacts for Angus Pierce, finding he had an office in New York. She dialed the number and told the woman who answered that she was calling from McClure’s magazine, but, walking a fine journalistic line, did not say that she was a reporter. She thought he might be more likely to call her back if he thought it might be about the magazine sale, if it was time he revealed himself as the one making the offer.
       The woman said she would hand over the request to Pierce’s p.r. agent, a woman named Andrea Solari.  The next morning Solari called, sounding wholly officious and very guarded.
       “May I ask Mr. Pierce what this is in reference to?”
       Katie, still fudging, said, “I think he might know the reason. It’s about my magazine.”
       Solari said she’d pass the request on but that Mr. Pierce and his son were currently on a ski vacation in Switzerland.
       Katie scrambled to think of the names of the most luxurious resorts whose clientele were of Pierce’s ilk.
       “St. Moritz? Zermatt?”
        “I’m not at liberty to say. And he’s left instructions that he is not to be contacted except for very good reason.”
        “Well,” said Katie, “perhaps you can just shoot him an e-mail and see what he says.”
        “I’ll see what I can do,” said Solari. “I wouldn’t expect any answer soon, however.”




 
© John Mariani, 2024









❖❖❖



NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR



                                        HOW PORTUGAL'S RED WINES HAVE BECOME COMPETITIVE IN THE WORLD MARKET

By John Mariani


Herdade de Peso
 

      
The wine




s of Portugal have lagged behind those of Spain for political and economic reasons, but new wineries led by young winemakers have brought fresh life to what had been an industry known for entry level Douro reds and white vinho verdes. I interviewed Madalena Gonçalves (below), wine maker of Herdade de Peso about progress, innovation and the future of her country's wines. Over dinner I sampled two superb reds wines, Parcelas (85% Alicante Bouschet, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon) and  Revelado (64% Alicante Bouschet, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Touriga Nacional.


Portuguese wines have only recently been competing with established European wineries. What historical/political factors of the last half-century kept the industry from excelling?

           
Portugal's wine industry spent decades in near-isolation. The Salazar regime, which lasted until 1974, had little interest in modernizing agriculture or opening export markets. The cooperative system that dominated rural Portugal was built for volume, not quality. And when the Carnation Revolution finally came, the country spent years stabilizing politically and economically before the wine sector could attract serious private investment.

      Sogrape understood earlier than most that Portugal had something genuinely rare: ancient indigenous grape varieties, terroirs that exist nowhere else in the world and a winemaking tradition that predates most of what we call "classic" wine regions. The question was never whether the raw material was exceptional — it was whether anyone would commit to expressing it properly.

    Casa Ferreirinha's Barca Velha set the standard. It was Portugal's first great red wine by any international measure, and it came from Ferreira, which is part of the Sogrape family. That wine proved something critical: that Portugal could produce wines of genuine complexity and age-worthiness, not just volume. Herdade do Peso is a continuation of that same conviction, applied to the Alentejo.


The Douro region, where Port is made, has garnered most of the attention for innovation in winemaking. Yet your winery is in the Alentejo region. What are the chief differences in terroir?


The Douro gets attention partly because Port has been an internationally traded for three centuries. That history built the infrastructure for storytelling. But terroir doesn't follow reputation — it follows geology, climate, and vine age.

    The Alentejo is a completely different proposition. We're on a vast plain in southern Portugal, with a continental climate — hot, dry summers and cold winters — and soils that range from granite and schist to clay and limestone, sometimes within the same estate. At Herdade do Peso, we have 12 distinct soil types across 465 hectares. That complexity is what makes the wines interesting.

    What we focus on is balance. The heat in the Alentejo can push ripeness very quickly, which is why vineyard work — canopy management, harvest timing, parcel-by-parcel monitoring — is so critical. The wines that result are full-bodied but not heavy, with a texture and warmth that is distinctly Alentejan. You taste the land, not the winemaker's intervention


When was Herdade do Peso founded and for what purpose? 

   
Herdade do Peso was purchased by  Sogrape in 1997 after we identified the Vidigueira sub-region of the Alentejo as having exceptional potential — large diurnal differences, cooler temperatures at night, the soils are complex, and the existing vineyards were already promising. The goal from the beginning was not to make wines in a generic Alentejo style, but to understand what this specific piece of land could produce at its best.

Sogrape's involvement brought the resources and the rigor to pursue that goal seriously: investment in the vineyard parcel by parcel, in the winery infrastructure, and in the patience to make decisions for the long term rather than for the next harvest. The philosophy has always been that the wine is already in the land and the work is to understand it well enough not to get in the way.



You joined Sogrape in 2018, finding your way from the distributor side to becoming a winemaker. What have you endeavored to do thus far to bring the wines quality to a high?


When I first joined the company in 2018, the goal wasn’t to impose a style on the wines, but rather to understand the estate, its vineyards and its unique terroir. Becoming a winemaker taught me that true quality and identity begins in the vineyard.

    Since then, my focus has been on working closely with the viticulture team to better understand each block, soil, exposures and natural balance. We’ve placed a strong emphasis on respectful farming practices, biodiversity and ensuring that the vines are healthy and resilient because the vineyard should be the main source of quality. Since 2018 I’ve focused on working with nature instead of against it. In the winery, we intervene as little as necessary, making decisions that preserve freshness, balance and a sense of place. Rather than chasing a particular trend or style, we let each vintage express itself honestly. Quality is about crafting wines that are authentic and capable of showing where they come from. And this is what I’ll keep working towards because I feel we’re moving in the right direction.

 

Of the estate’s 465 hectares, 160 are vineyards and 100 olive groves. How do you balance the ecosystems within the terroir?

   
Balancing the ecosystems across our estate starts with recognizing that the vineyards, olives and natural areas are not separate elements. Of our 465 hectares, 160 are vineyards and 100 are olive groves, while a really significant portion of the remaining land is dedicated to preserving and enhancing natural habitats. In our estate and with this kind of landscape design all the areas dedicated to promote natural habitats are not considered non-productive land. They form part of an ecological infrastructure that enhances grape quality and contributes to the long-term sustainability of the estate. We have to look at each ecosystem as playing an essential role in the health and resilience of the terroir as a whole.

    One of the ways we achieve this is through biodiversity corridors established throughout the property. These corridors connect different habitats and create refuge for native flora and fauna, encouraging a richer and more balanced ecosystem. Beyond supporting biodiversity, they provide shade, help reduce temperatures, improve soil health, and contribute to natural pest control by fostering populations of beneficial insects and wildlife.

    The relationship between the vineyards and all the surrounding ecosystems is fundamental. Healthy natural ecosystems support pollinators, predators of vineyard and a wide range of microorganisms that contribute to soil vitality. In turn, well-managed agricultural areas can coexist and even strengthen these ecological networks when farming practices are respectful of the environment.

    Our philosophy is that great wines begin with a healthy landscape. That is why our practices are guided by respect for nature, careful water management, and a commitment to maintaining biodiversity. Rather than trying to dominate the environment, we aim to work with it, allowing each ecosystem to support the others. This creates a more resilient terroir, better adapted to the challenges of climate change and capable of expressing the true character of Alentejo for many years to come.

 

Your estate is home to 12 different types of soil and grow 16 varietals. Are all your wines blends and which varietals do you favor? Which soils are considered the best? 


Most of our wines are blends, with only selected vintages of Parcelas being monovarietals. The decision to blend is driven by what the vintage and the parcels require, not by a formula. In some years, a single parcel expresses something so complete that it becomes the Parcelas wine on its own. In others, blending is what achieves balance.

    The varieties we work with most are Alicante Bouschet (the backbone of Alentejo red winemaking), Touriga Nacional, Tinta Miuda, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot among others.  Alicante Bouschet is particularly interesting because it's one of the few red-fleshed varieties in the world, which gives a depth of color and a particular structure. Among whites, Arinto is our primary variety, it holds acidity well in the Alentejo heat, which is not something you can take for granted here.

    On soils: there is no "best" soil at Herdade do Peso. What exists is a range of soils, each with different characteristics, and the quality of the wine that comes from any one of them depends entirely on how it's managed. The skill is in understanding what each parcel is capable of and working with it accordingly.


In addition to stainless steel tanks and traditional oak barrels you use amphoras and cement vats. Why and when? 


These vessels are tools for specific purposes. Amphoras allow micro-oxygenation without imparting wood character — useful when you want texture and roundness but want the fruit to remain the primary voice. Cement vats have a natural thermal inertia that keeps fermentation temperatures stable without intervention. Neither is a stylistic statement; both are practical choices based on what a particular wine needs.





You seem to be adamant about alcohol levels and your red wines prove that strength and richness can be achieved without bolstering alcohol levels. Is this a deliberate attempt to diverge from so many Spanish and Italian wines that are now at 14.5% alcohol and above?  


This is deliberate, and it requires work at every stage of the process — not just in the cellar.

It starts in the vineyard. Harvesting at the right moment, before sugar accumulation outpaces phenolic ripeness, is critical. In the Alentejo, that window can be narrow. We monitor each parcel individually so we're not making blanket decisions based on averages. Canopy management throughout the growing season also plays a role — shade reduces temperature at the berry level and slows sugar development.

    In the cellar, we avoid practices that concentrate alcohol further. The result is wines that sit typically between 13.5% and 14% — which, for this climate, represents genuine restraint without compromise on richness or structure.

    Alcohol should be a consequence of the vintage and the variety, not a target. When it becomes the loudest voice in a wine, something has gone wrong in the process.


You price your wines at a level of some of the best of your competitors in Rioja. Is it difficult to convince the consumer that a Portuguese wine like Parcelas should sell for should sell for $65 in the U.S.?


The consumer we're speaking to doesn't need to be convinced that a Portuguese wine can cost $65. They need to taste it once. Herdade do Peso has history, rigorous vineyard management, and a commitment to sustainability: that combination produces wines that hold their own against Rioja at the same price point. The conversation has shifted: serious wine buyers are actively looking for value outside the established appellations, and Portugal is consistently where they land.


Where are your biggest markets currently?

Currently, our top markets are Portugal, USA, Switzerland and Angola.

 

Consumption of wine has been steadily dropping, especially among the young people, and health warnings have turned off many older people. How do you think these trends can be met by a small estate like yours? 


The answer for an estate like Herdade do Peso is quality over frequency. The consumer who is pulling back from wine consumption is often pulling back from unremarkable wine. What we offer is a reason to be more intentional about what's in the glass — wines with a story, a place, and a winemaker behind them. That's a different conversation from volume. It´s all about Drink Less, Drink Better.

 


 



❖❖❖


DEPT. OF WRETCHED EXCESS


Life insurance salesman Peter Rosengard (left) has hosted 10,367 client meetings at Claridge’s by having three breakfasts every day at  clients at 7:30, 8.:0 and 9:30 over the last 45 years.  “People find it difficult to say no when they’ve got food in their mouth,” he said.





❖❖❖



 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




❖❖❖







The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             








              

MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

If you wish to subscribe to this newsletter, please click here: http://www.johnmariani.com/subscribe/index.html



© copyright John Mariani 2026




1622