MARIANI’S

 

Virtual Gourmet

AUGUST 9, 2026                                                                                            NEWSLETTER


Founded in 1996 

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Sihung Lung and Chien Lien Wu in "Eat Drink Man Woman" (1994)

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DINING OUT IN BUENOS AIRES
By John Mariani

NEW YORK CORNER
TAVOLA HELL'S KITCHEN

By John Mariani


THE BISON
CHAPTER  THIRTY-FOUR
By John Mariani

NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
AUGUST GRAB BAG

By John Mariani



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DINING OUT IN BUENOS AIRES
By John Mariani





 

    Depending on the season, Buenos Aires can be an inexpensive city to visit, owing to its boom or bust economy, and at the moment, despite the country's current boom, with inflation tamed, exports up and GDP solid,the US dollar is very strong, with 1,489 pesos to the dollar. In Buenos Aires merchants gladly accept dollars at the established rate (Western Union is the best place for exchange; ATMs are not), but I've also found that you might get a discount on the price of an item if you offer dollars.
    The restaurants, therefore, are bargains by comparison to the States or Europe, and while Argentinians eat beef the way Americans eat burgers, there are certainly  alternatives to steakhouses. There are also very upscale restaurants, like Aramnuru, serving 18-course meals, if that is your wont.
    Steakhouses in Buenos Aires are called parillas, and a parillada para dos is a sumptuous meal that brings an array of cuts and meats to the table, including chinchulines (intestines), mollejas (sweetbreads) and rinones (kidneys) along with the usual cuts of filets, ribeyes and sirloins. The parillas that are the most fun are big and always busy; many don't take reservations.


LA CABRERA
(José A. Cabrera 5127) in the Palermo neighborhood is always a good bet for the best beef available. It was opened a quarter century ago by Gaston Rivera, and it still stays open seven days a week. The grill is open to the smart-looking dining room, and it is known for its 40% discount during happy hour.
The skirt steak is one of the most popular items ($35), and a three-course meal with a beverage will run about $50.

 

ELENA (The Four Seasons Buenos Aires, Posadas 1086/88). As you'd expect, The Four Seasons Hotel is one of the most luxurious in the city, but its beautiful rotisserie restaurant Elena will not break the budget.   This great-looking, two-level, open kitchen new restaurant is a signal that The Four Seasons is tying the local food culture to a casual but chic atmosphere—with very reasonable prices. Everything is made on premises, from the charcuterie and breads to the smoked trout, and there are Italian items on the menu along with dry-aged beef—a true rarity in Argentina. Begin with the Galician octopus or the sweetbreads in a lemon emulsion, split the hefty dry-aged Angus ribeye or the 33.5 ounce ribeye. For dessert have the Balcarce of Buenos Aires meringue with dulce de leche and chestnuts and the chocolate almendr for dessert.

 

CABAÑA LAS LILAS  (516 Ave. Davila). Among the throng of restaurantes that line the Puerto Maduro waterfront, none is more famous or popular than Cabaña Las Lillas, a big, wide-open parrilla serving up huge cuts of grilled beef, sausages, sweetbreads, and lamb cutlets.You must try the typical grilled provolone cheese in generous portions. And this: The restaurant’s signature drink: gin, peach pulp, and Champagne

OVIEDO  (Antonio Beruti 2602). If you've had your fill of beef, head for Oviedo in Recolta, now in its fourth decade, a romantic, not fancy dining room  specializing in seafood, with a remarkable wine cellar (under a grating in the dining room floor), and a clientele composed of half regulars and half gourmets visiting the city. Chef Marti Rebaudino brings in fish twice a day, so go with the day's catch,cooked á la plancha. Must st Try: The grilled fish with pumpkin ravioli and the fish cooked a la plancha. The codfish croquetas are a good starter, and the mixed fried seafood is perfectly cooked.

 


CUCINA PARADISO  (Castañeda 1873). Italians are by far the largest immigrant population in Argentina and Buenos Aires, so you can bet on the city having good Italian restaurants. Cucina Paradiso now has several branches, but I still like the original in San Telmo, an Italian neighborhood.   It's lively, enormously popular trattoria run by Donato De Santis would be among the best anywhere.  The antipasti are myriad in number—rabbit with tuna sauce, eggplant caponata, creamy burrata cheese—the pastas sublime, like the beautiful beet-infused risotto. Don't mess the Sardinian pasta called culurzones, stuffed with egg, cheese, potato, and sausage and the ricotta-mascarpone  cheesecake to finish with espresso.

 

 

 






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NEW YORK CORNER


  TAVOLA HELL'S KITCHEN
488 Ninth Avenue
212-273-1181

By John Mariani


 

Nick Accardi


 

    I’ve been to enough restaurants in my lifetime to be able to read a room. Some of my snooty colleagues––especially the London restaurant critics––love nothing better than to classify the clientele by their clothes, looks or demeanor, using condescending, shopworn clichés like “tailored Italian suits” and “social X-rays,” but I prefer to sense the ambience of a room by what I hear. And what I hear at Tavola Hell's Kitchen, way over on the West Side of Manhattan, is the sound of people having a very good time, feeling at home, often with kids in tow. The crowd here has clearly made this one of the most convivial trattorias in the city, yet––perhaps because they are not shouting to be heard––the noise level is more amiable than raucously loud.

The room itself helps, for it is a very old one that was for more than a century an Italian grocery and eatery, with a tin ceiling, tile floors and stainless steel doors. (I remember when truck drivers would come here to eat before entering the Lincoln Tunnel for a long haul.) Then, fourteen years ago, Chef Nick Accardi bought the place, installed two massive 7,000-pound pizza ovens and did as little as possible to make any changes in the beloved space. Now, as Tavola Hell’s Kitchen, he has built a guest base of neighborhood people and those who love his rustic and very authentic Southern Italian cooking. He brings in everything he can from Italy, including his own very fine olive oil and Sicilian tummina flour. Long trial and error went into the perfecting of every dish, not least his superior pizzas, which are among the very best in New York. You should definitely split one––there are ten to choose from––at the table for a starter with one of the Italian spritzer cocktails made here.

Tavola’s is a good-sized menu, and the wine list has been carefully chosen to go with the food.  If you don’t order a pizza, don’t miss the focaccia dusted with rosemary, sesame seeds and glossed with olive oil. Every bit as savory us the bruschetta with eggplant  and dry ricotta, and if you’ve really worked up an appetite, share the wild boar and veal meatballs with tomato sauce and pecorino di Sardegna cheese. There is also a platter of Italian cheeses and salumi.

Accardi’s daily gnocchi (left) are light but full of the flavor of potato, served with various sauces. I do wonder why he would use Manila clams in spaghetti alle vongole, because vongole are smaller sweeter and more tender than the big, chewy Manila variety.

When I see lasagne on a menu I order it, because it can easily be rendered as a gooey mess. Accardi’s is more carefully prepared so that the fresh pasta is balanced with layers of wild boar and veal ragù, Buffalo mozzarella, parmigiano, and tomato sauce, so that every ingredient is complementary.

As in all good Italian restaurants, main courses are more simply conceived than what precedes the, like grilled chicken with field greens, chicken alla parmigiana (very good, with provolone rather than mozzarella cheese) and strip steak in a Tuscan wine reduction.

I thoroughly  enjoyed a grilled fish filet simply treated to an olive oil and lemon bath, which had its texture  in tandem with superb juiciness.

For dessert the special item at Tavola is the cannoli, made with imported biscuit shells filled with ricotta mixed with chocolate chips and topped with a pistachio and caramelized orange peel. Or you could go for the Nutella-topped pizza and a good, strong espresso.

By the time you push back from the table to admire the old-fashioned décor, the “GROSSERIA” sign, the shelves with cans and jars of ingredients and the fiaschi bottle of Chianti, the families will be leaving and things quiet down. Nick Accardi has spent  the evening in and out of the kitchen, hugging incoming regulars, schmoozing with newcomers and regulars alike, telling them what they should eat and  drink tonight. In New York such intimacy is rare at restaurants, but Accardi––whom everyone calls Nick from the get-go––has a Sicilian soul for his food and a Sicilian heart for his congenial way with people.

Oh, by the way, Hell’s Kitchen, which more uppity people call Clinton, stretches from West 34th Street up to 59th (where Lincoln  Center replaced it). It was where West Side Story took place. Yet after centuries have gone by, no one remembers why it’s called Hell’s Kitchen, but it still has a wonderfully raffish ring.  









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THE BISON
By John Mariani



                       Donald Trump, Melania Knauss, Jeffrey Epstein and Ghislaine Maxwell

CHAPTER THIRTY-FOUR



    “Should we rent a car to go up to Pierce’s place?” asked Katie.

       “So we can make a quick getaway?”

       “The thought had occurred to me.”

       “Better than having a taxi with its motor running outside or a horse-drawn carriage.”

       The next morning Katie asked Greta to rent a small car and asked if the snow and ice conditions were.

       “All the cars here are well adapted to the conditions,” she said. “The conditions change all the time, even during the day. Ice patches, the occasional avalanche. Just go slow and you’ll be fine. I assume you do not need automatic transmission. Those kinds of cars are rare around here, unless someone arrives here in a Rolls Royce.”

       “How about the Maseratis and Ferraris?” asked David.

       Greta laughed and said, “Oh, they do very well. They are very wide and close to the ground and have magnificent ability to hold the road. My husband has an old Ferrari and we drive everywhere in it.”

       “Well,” said Katie, “I think we’d better stick to something like a Volvo or SAAB.”

       “You’d be surprised,” said Greta. “The little Fiat Cinquecentos do well in the snow and ice because they have the engine in the rear.”

       Katie said that in fact she drove a Fiat back in the States, and said, “That’s fine with me.”

       Greta said the rental agency would bring the car to the hotel with the forms to fill out. By the time Katie and David had finished breakfast the car was outside.

       “Do you think I need insurance?” Katie asked the agent?

       “We think it’s a good idea because of the weather conditions,” he replied.

       Katie said she thought he credit card company gave her coverage, but wasn’t sure if it applied in a foreign country, so she agreed to the personal and collision damage coverage for two days.

       “This way if we drive off a cliff, we’re covered,” she said to David.

       “If we drive off a cliff, we probably won’t need coverage.”

 

                                                                      *       *      *

 

    Greta gave them directions.

       “It’s very easy, “ she said, “straight up Route 27, about twenty minutes, and when you get to the town of Engaden (left), turn off onto Ils Muots, then Prazett, and the Pierce’s chalet will be off the road on the right with a big entry road leading into the woods.

Katie called the number Richard Pierce had given her and said she and David would be leaving their hotel and should be up to the chalet within a half hour. It was a very pleasant drive, with the mountains still heavy with snow and green pines at their lower level. At four o’clock it was barely twilight but the roads, with typical Swiss efficiency, were clearly marked, and they saw a sign with a leaping gazelle on it: the springbok, South Africa’s national animal, which was lettered on the sign. The entrance was gated, so Katie rang up Richard who buzzed them through.

       The drive up to the chalet, which seemed far too enormous to be considered one, was at least a mile long, still icy and  edged on both sides by steep pine-riddled ravines. At the end of the driveway the huge structure of the Pierce mansion loomed against the last light on the mountains.  There were several cars in front of the house—all SUVs, including a Range Rover, two Mercedes G Class and a Lexus LX. 

       As Katie and David drove the last twenty yards of the gravel road, stanchion lights flashed on, illuminating the entire frontage of the estate.

The front door, beneath a large porte-cochere, opened and the light from inside silhouetted a tall man who came into focus as Richard Pierce, waving.

       “Welcome to our little chalet,” he said. “My father has been looking forward to your arrival.” Dressed in casual ski resort clothes, Pierce pointed to a space where they could park the car, then came over to greet the two Americans.

       “No trouble finding the place, I assume?”

       “Not in the least,” said David. “Like you said, everybody seems to know where this place is.”

       “It is pretty big,” said Pierce. “Bigger than we need, but we get a lot of work done here and have it outfitted for offices as well as living quarters. At the moment it’s just the two of us here.”

       Taking Katie’s arm he said, “Careful on the ice here. It’s very slippery.”

       David wondered to himself how come a rich guy like Pierce wouldn’t have heated the entire driveway.

       Once inside the enormity of the building became very evident. Katie and David were standing in a baronial room about thirty-five feet high, flanked by hallways, with a central staircase leading to a second floor that wrapped around the perimeter of the first, all done in exquisitely polished wood designed to indicate this was as far from a cozy log cabin chalet as one could imagine. Baldassari had told them the place was worth about $40 million, complete with ten bedrooms, both a plunge pool and Turkish bath, an outdoor pool and a Himalayan salt room.

       “Come,” said Pierce, “My father’s in  his study. Can I get you anything to drink?”

       “Water would be fine,” said Katie, and David nodded. Katie took her notepad and pen from her bag and slipped them into her parka.

       Pierce led them down a hallway that opened into an adjacent large room with windows overlooking a vast expanse of mountain landscape at the top of which the very last light of the day was fading from violet to deep gray.  The walls were lined with books. There was a fireplace at least five feet high and six feet wide, to each side leather armchairs and a sofa in front of it. At a large desk against the windows sat Angus Pierce, who when he got up looked every inch his six-foot-four height. His son’s resemblance to his father was apparent: Both had large foreheads and slightly hooked noses, with very broad shoulders to add gravitas to their impressive height. Angus Pierce had a well-kempt beard that still retained some of the red color of his hair, probably dyed, which was swept back.

       Angus Pierce’s voice boomed in a voice with a distinct South African accent. “Welcome, welcome! I’ve been looking forward to this meeting since Richard told me you were in town. Everybody knows everybody else’s doings in this little burg. I hear you had lunch with Alessandra up at the Coveglia. She’s quite a gal, isn’t she? Smart as a whip, very wickedly funny, knows where  all the bones are buried. But, of course, she’s really just a high-class gossipmonger, isn’t she? You, however, Miss Cavuto, are world famous for your investigative journalism. Even put your life on the line, I’m told.”

       Katie said, “Well, David and I didn’t plan it that way, but, yeah we’ve had a couple of scrapes.”

       “Real derring-do, from what I read. That business with the Vermeer painting. Y’know, I thought of bidding on that, too. Glad I didn’t from how things turned out. I prefer to keep out of danger when it comes to art auctions.”

       David was looking at the surroundings and saw a large  bronze statue of a bison on Pierce’s desk.

       “Oh, that,” said Pierce. “You may have heard that Robert Maxwell, Rubert Murdoch and I were called the ‛Three Bison’ of the publishing world by Time magazine. After that, my wife had that rather heavy paperweight made for me. I think it says ‛Number One Bison’ or something. Pick it up and look, on the bottom. Good-looking piece, don’t you think?”

       David picked it up and found it was indeed heavy. He turned it over and it said what Pierce said it would, with the addition of what David assumed was the Number One Bison’s wife’s name.

     



 © John Mariani, 2024





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                                NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR



                                                            AUGUST GRAB BAG
                                                                      By John Mariani





       The Dog Days of summer are upon us, so the livin’ should be easy. Time to pluck some bottles from the shelf and try something new.


Avignonesi Grifi Toscana I.G.T. 2022 ($33). The Tuscan region of Bolgheri has become one of most highly regarded, thanks to the Bordeaux style of Sassicaia, Ca’Marcanda and Ornellaia, all priced well above $100. But there are ither Bolgheri wines that have excellent individuality at much lower prices, all labeled I.G.T. appellation. Sangiovese (38,23%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (61.77%) are the basis for Grifi’s example from a warm weather vintage, harvested in mid- to late-September,  that intensified flavors but still with a 14% alcohol.

 

 

Avignonesi Desiderio Toscana I.G.T. Merlot 2021 ($57). As pictured on the label, Desiderio was a prized Chianina bull on the estate Capezzine farm a century ago. The wine is 100% Merlot, from terroir rich in clay and spring frost and  mild summer, which allowed the grapes to ripen to ideal sugar levels, emerging, after 24 months in  oak,  at 14% alcohol.

 



Madame de Beaucaillou Haut-Medoc 2023
($23). A  blend of 59% Merlot, 37% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Petit Verdot within the Saint-Julien appellation, this is a Second Grand Cru Growth that has been in the Borie family since 1941, now in its third generation under Bruno-Eugene Borie. The vineyards, full of granite for minerality, are near the Gironde estuary that moderates the temperatures. Warm, dry weather helped make this an excellent vintage with levels of flavors from fruit and acid. It is the kind of reasonably priced Bordeaux that makes them a bargain in today’s market.

 


Roederer Estate Sparking Wine 2021 ($55). The grapes for this California sparkler come from an Anderson Valley former apple orchard named Apple Alley. It was a tough vintage year, still in drought conditions and missing the usual summer fog, so that yields were very low and berries were small but concentrated, with high sugars and good acids. The blend is 80.3% Chardonnay and 19.7% Pinot Noir, so that the fruit is forward and underlined by velvety, aromatic notes and lovely alcohol level of 12.9%.

 

 

 

 

 

 








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WHAT THE WORLD NEEDS NOW 


"The Hands Down Cheapest Pizza Chains Of 2026" By Maria Scinto, Takeout (June 29, 2026).

 










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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             








              

MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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© copyright John Mariani 2026




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