MARIANI’S

 

Virtual Gourmet

January 25, 2026

                                                                                                                    NEWSLETTER

             
   

Founded in 1996 
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Alec Guinness and John Mills in "Great Expectations" (1946)

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THIS WEEK


DINING OUT AND STAYING IN ZURICH
By John Mariani


NEW YORK CORNER
LEX YARD

By John Mariani


THE BISON
CHAPTER  SEVEN
By John Mariani

NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
THE REMARKABLE BARGAIN THAT IS SAUTERNES

By John Mariani




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 DINING OUT AND STAYING IN ZURICH
By John Mariani



    Every great city of the 21st century needs hotels and restaurants with equal amounts traditional character and true modernity, which is certainly the case with Zürich, both in the older and newer parts of the city.
    As an established classic, the Baur au Lac Hotel, opened in 1844, has hosted everyone from Sophia Loren and Brigitte Bardot to Marc Chagall and Alfred Hitchcock. In this century it has kept pace with contemporary ideals of comfort and cuisine through a $50 million renovation that reconfigured 32 rooms and suites into 22 larger ones with luxurious new marble bathrooms, Bose sound systems, 25 English channels on TV, dependable WiFi and a magnificent new rooftop patio overlooking the city. The entry hall and hall lounge have been completely refurbished, now with a glorious raised glass dome ceiling. Yet, somehow, everything seems the same in so many cherished ways.
    Over two visits I’ve seen the evolution first hand while enjoying the same warm congeniality of a staff whose members speak several languages and lack any of the pretensions I too easily find in so many five-star hotels. If relaxing is at least as important for business travelers as it is for romantics, then the Baur au Lac, located on the quieter left side of the River Linmat side and less than ten minutes from the Bahnhof train station, is ideal for both.
    There are two restaurants––Marguita, which is new, replacing Le Pavilion, and Baur's, a casual spot. The first now has a number of Italian dishes on it, including arancini rice balls, vitello tonnato, spaghetti alla chitarra and ossobuco. Prices are considerably below what they had been at Le Pavillon.
    Baur's (left) is more of a continental-style restaurant, also with Italian items like saffron risotto, along with lamb chops with lentils, and a wagyu burger with truffle mayonnaise, and some classic Swiss items, including veal Zurich-style, and Wiener schnitzel.  

    Very different in style and every bit as modern as any hotel in Europe, the Park Hyatt focuses on a contemporary approach based on efficient and congenial service by a young lobby staff imbued with a mission to go beyond all the requisite answers to business and tourist queries along with personal insight into what is going on in Zürich, from the new restaurants to the arts and entertainments.
    The hotel is now 18 years old, with 138 rooms. (Oddly enough, Zürich has no Ritz-Carlton or Four Seasons hotels, so, along with the new Mandarin Oriental Savoy,  the Park Hyatt is ideal for those expecting that level of five-star luxury and service.) Largely encased in glass, the very spacious rooms, not least the 1,722 square feet Presidential Suite on the top floor, get plenty of light and have both a large marble tub and separate showers. Zürich is a quiet city, and the rooms at the Park Hyatt are quieter still.
   
The Onyx Bar and the Lounge (right), set just off the lobby, are casual, chic and comfortable spaces set with sofas and club chairs, with high ceilings, fanciful modern artwork and a soothing fireplace. The menu is focuses on snacks and light food, including calamata tapenade crostini, beef tartare, chicken with Brussels sprouts and grilled sole. 
    The slightly more upscale dining option (for breakfast, lunch and dinner) is the PARKHUUS, a vast paneled room with soaring ceilings, glass walls and candles on the tables. You pass an open kitchen with wood-burning oven as you enter, where the heavily tattooed Chef  Tomotej Mŭzila. produces an eclectic cuisine based on Swiss ingredients. There is a degustation 5-course menu along with à la carte, including squab with black salsify, crispy raviolo with kimchi, smoked veal tartare and suziki sea bass with edamame and wasabi.

    Requisite to a visit to Zürich is a traditional meal of Swiss raclette, and the Raclette Factory (Rindemarkt 1), on the right bank since 1985, bustles at lunch and well into the afternoon and dinner time, so the cook rings a cowbell whenever an order is ready. It’s a one-room affair, with counters, a bright, gemütlich atmosphere and an innovation in Zürich—take-away raclette. You can buy a t-shirt reading “SAY CHEESE.”
    Raclette is made from cheese of the same name, which is matured between three and six months, and this eatery offers variants,  with an  all-you-can eat option of regional cheeses like blue Blaue Schalk from Schalchen, truffled from Käserei and goat’s cheese from Girenbad. In addition there are to some wonderful, smoky 
tarte flambées decadently topped with crème fraîche, bacon and other ingredients.
        For those seeking a very traditional Swiss restaurant, the venerable Kronenhalle (Ramistrasse 3), dating to 1924, endures, still arrayed with its astounding original art by Picasso, Giacometti, Chagall, Bonnard and others hung nonchalantly on the walls above your table. The Swiss beer is good, the Wiener Schnitzel enormous and the desserts rich. But prices have become very high––goulash is now 69 Swiss francs––and this, once my favorite go-to places in Zürich, is now something of a think-and-think-again splurge.



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NEW YORK CORNER


LEX YARD

The Waldorf-Astoria

550 Lexington Avenue

212-355-3000


Peacock Alley

 

        It took a while­­––eight years––for the restoration of the legendary Waldorf Astoria to be completed, but the best thing about it, thanks to architects Skidmore, Owings & Merrill and interior designer Pierre-Yves Rochon, is that anyone who recalls the interiors with fondness will be delighted to find the transformation has maintained all the elements that made it the most spectacular hotel in New York when it opened in 1931. Now, with everything given a finer tone and better lighting, it is all polished to a dazzling sheen, not least the art deco bas-relief figures on the elevator doors.

        Things have been moved around in the grand lobby, with its stunning central clock, crafted in London for the 1893 Chicago World’s Fair, so that now the check-in counters have been pushed to the south side, allowing the lobby to be enlarged. Peacock Alley is now a snazzy bar (with Cole Porter’s piano outside), though it is no longer an alley where the swells of New York once paraded through.

    The hotel once had 1,400 guest rooms, but the conversion now provides 375 guest rooms and 372 private residences (none of which I’ve seen).

    There are now three restaurant options, including Peacock Alley with a lounge menu, and  the Japanese Yoshoku, while the main dining room that was once Oscar’s, is now set on two levels: Downstairs is the more casual bar, while up a daunting flight of stairs is the main dining room, designed by AvroKO in the contemporary art deco style of a brasserie named Lex Yard, whose arcane name refers to the existence of an old train yard beneath Lexington Avenue.

It's a comfortable room, with roomy booths and banquettes, though, with 220 seats, it does have the spread-out ambience of a hotel dining room serving breakfast , lunch and dinner.

    “Helmed by Chef Michael Anthony,” who is also maintaining his long-term position  at Gramercy Tavern, Lex Yard offers a kind of modern continental menu that offers something for everyone, including a good number of vegetable options, including appetizers like roasted sweet potatoes with sumac yogurt and citrus, and veggie sliders of Napa cabbage slaw and pickled peppers. The menu is both a la carte or as a fixed price four-course option.

Among the chilled starters are oysters and crudi, as well as Long Island Royal red shrimp as plump as langoustines and very meaty. Butternut squash soup with turnips, chickpeas and carrots made for a warming winter dish.

    Anthony has reworked the classic Waldorf salad of celery, mayonnaise, apples and (later) walnuts created when the hotel opened in 1893, to now include grapes and a lighter lemon dressing (left).

As everywhere in New York, Lex Yard offers pastas, three of them, and I liked the mushroom tagliatelle with bacon, black pepper and a sauce made with Vermont Alpha Tolman cheese.

    There are three  seafood items, and the sweet meat of Arctic char was graced with shelling beans, spigarello broccoli and peppers.

I felt the Elysian Fields lamb braised shoulder with Thumbelina carrots, turnips and a dose of harissa could have used more of the last ingredient to perk up the sauce. Golden Chicken came with parsnips, cipollini onions, and excellent shoestring potatoes, and, of course, there is a Lex burger piled high with cheddar cheese, caramelized onion and Thousand Island dressing on a seated bun.

            The best of the desserts was the most child-friendly, a Rocky Road ice cream sundae with chocolate and vanilla ice cream, candied, almonds and mini-marshmallows. Also good was a red velvet tart with cream cheese, raspberry swirl ice cream and berry coulis.  The pear hazelnut panna cotta was a little bland, but I loved the texture of the apple crostata with oatmeal streusel, caramelized, apples, and buttermilk ice cream.

       Lex Yard’s wine list is currently dominated by very high-priced wines with most well above $100 and very few under. I asked about this  imbalance and was told the management is, in fact, taking another look at the list.

    I had expected the menu at Lex Yard to be a bit more exciting, even daring, given the elegance and luxury of the restoration. As of now, you’ll eat well enough but surprise is not among the menu’s virtues. It could use a good deal more dazzle than just putting caviar on the lobster roll.

 

      

Open for breakfast and lunch; Sat. & Sun. for brunch; Tues.-Sat. for dinner.

 

 









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THE BISON

        By John Mariani


 


CHAPTER SEVEN

 

 

        “Donny Deutsch. Who’s’ this?”
         “Katie Cavuto, I’m a writer for  McClure’s, doing a story on the bidding for New York magazine. We’ve met a couple of times.”
         “Tell me where?”
         “The Pulitzer Prize awards last year.”
         There was a brief pause—Katie thought she heard him flipping through a Rolodex.
         “Right. Katie Cavuto, Not just a writer but the investigative reporter for McClure’s, right? You were a nominee for a story, right?”
         “Yeah, glad you remembered.”
         “You know David Greco, right?”
         Katie was surprised to hear that Deutsch knew of her friend and associate but again assumed it was on an index card he was reading from.
         “Right. David has been a big help on some of my stories.”
         “Hey, I remember. Both of you almost got dunked in the China Sea. Good to hear your voice. So, how can I help you?”
         Deutsch, being a key New York media ad mover, would, as Katie assumed, be more than willing to talk about his participation in the sale of New York.
         “You have time for an interview, in person?”
         “Absolutely. How about lunch. . . Hey. I can cancel something. Lunch today? Michael’s?”
         He did not need to give her the address, for Michael’s was a famous restaurant on West 55th Street that was a daily meeting place for media and entertainment honchos. In fact, it was one of Dobell’s frequent lunch spots.
         “One o’clock?”
         “One o’clock it is,” said Katie then she hung up and said to herself, “Well, that was easy.”
         The next day Katie got to the restaurant early and was graciously greeted by the ever ebullient owner Michael McCarty, whose first restaurant by the same name he’d opened years before in Santa Monica as one of the principal places for the current Hollywood elite who wouldn’t be caught dead at the Polo Lounge in the Beverly Hills Hotel. In New York many of those coming to the city also dined at Michael’s there, and no one had a better grasp of the power rankings on both coasts. Or where to seat them.
        McCarty (left) maintained some of his youthful flamboyance, though he was now 56, heavier, but still wore faux-leopard skin pointed shoes and blue blazers, doling out his “How you doin’, man?” greeting to those whom he’d being serving since the 1980s in California. In New York he was only slightly more reserved.
         He certainly knew about Katie Cavuto, or at least had done his homework after Donny Deutsch’s people called in the reservation.
         “So, you’re dining with Donny, eh?” McCarty asked. “The ultimate man about town, at least among the media crowd.”
         McCarty showed her to a table in the rear dining room, which was already full up front. On the way through the front dining room Katie recognized at least fifty percent of the day’s guests, from the newly crowned Mayor Michael Bloomberg sitting with Rev. Al Sharpton to the CEO of Paramount, Sherry Lansing with long-time Vanity Fair editor Graydon Carter (right).  The faces of some Wall Street types eluded Katie but as soon as Donny Deutsch descended the three steps into the dining area he went to nearly every table to say hello or to schmooze, a ritual that went on for about five minutes. Finally he headed towards Katie.
         “Sorry for the wait,” he said, “Everybody who is anybody is here today. Of course, that’s true of this place every day. By the way, the reason we’re not sitting in the front room was my choice. I want to be as undisturbed as we can be so we can talk,” adding,
“I manage by walking around. When I’m at my desk, I’m usually in a meeting, not sitting writing memos.” Katie had read that his office was actually  a long conference desk set with a phone, a baseball glove and ball.
         Deutsch was a nice-looking, stocky guy originally from a Jewish family in Queens.  He had graying hair, polished nails, well-whitened teeth and was dressed in one of those pale pink shirts with contrasting white collar. No tie today.
        He had inherited his father’s advertising firm, which he’d sold two years before for $265 million. Word was he was itching to get into television as a commentator, maybe a news anchor. With so much money in the bank, he could bide his time. Katie had read that his mantra was “Often wrong, never in doubt.”
         Katie admitted that Deutsch had charm but it was very slick, not appealing. She was prepared to have him assert that he was more like her—a media colleague—than he was like those guys in the front room.
         Deutsch ordered a chopped salad and a pizza for the both of them, and Katie ordered the roast chicken with French fries Michael’s was known for.
         “You up for wine?” asked Deutsch.
         “Maybe a glass of white.”
         Deutsch waved over the waiter and said, “Bring a bottle of the Chardonnay I like.”
Like Weinstein, Deutsch tried to interview Katie in order to better position himself for her questions. This was nothing new to her, so she just went through a one-minute bio of her life, starting in the Bronx.
         “So,  you’re a Bronx girl. I’m from Queens, though the family got out of there early. I don’t think I’ve been back three times since.”
         “You know the Bronx?”    
      
“Better. Me and a few friends go up to Arthur Avenue sometimes for Italian-American food. You know Dominick’s?”
         Katie just nodded—Dominick’s was far from her favorite restaurant in the Bronx’s Little Italy, which was just minutes from her apartment—and didn’t want to go further, instead opening her notebook and asking if she could record the interview. Deutsch just shrugged his assent.
         The wine came and Deutsch tasted it, nodded and the waiter  poured it into Katie’s glass. “I love red wines, big Cabernets and Super Tuscans, but at lunch this is a much better choice. Goes with everything. I do remember those Three Martini Lunches. You’d get back to your office hammered. These days most of these people are drinking Perrier and lime.
         “So, why would you want to buy New York magazine?” she asked. “It’s losing money.”
         “Many more are, with a lot more to come. I’m telling you,  people will be watching HBO and Netflix for entertainment and CNN for news, along with the older networks, of course.”
         “So, what’s the allure of New York?”
         “Long history. Part of the city’s fabric, like the Village Voice. People get it even if they don’t read the feature articles. Covers sell magazines, not stories. Helen Gurley Brown knew that when she re-conceived Cosmo.”
         Katie wanted to differ, given that her own crime stories did not have sensational or lurid covers but were among the best-selling issues of McClure’s two years running. Still, she was well aware that Cosmo sold more copies each month than McClure’s would all year.
         “Listen,” said Deutsch. “Americans don’t read much of anything. People who buy the 800-page fall fashion issue of Vogue have no interest in some ‘serious’ article on a 
congresswoman. They may just glance at the loony fashion designer clothes Vogue needs to promote for advertising, but of those 800 pages probably ninety-percent of them are ads for Ralph Lauren or Coach, while the front-of-the-book columns are all pushing the latest bullshit face cream or the new lipstick color of the month.
         “And notice there’s a lot more coverage, especially on the covers, of Hollywood actresses where there used to be the same super models month after month. The modeling agencies never make money from getting Naomi  Campbell on the cover of Vogue. They make it from getting their lesser-known models jobs for Almay and Estée Lauder’s line as well as Sunday supplement brochures. All those girls modeling house coats and sweaters? They make money.”
          “So, how does New York figure into this brave new world,” asked Katie, who knew Deutsch would ramble on as the wine took hold. He was already on his second glass. She’d barely touched hers.
         New York’s either a dinosaur or a sleeping tiger, and if I get to buy it, I’m going to wake the tiger up and make him roar.” He clawed the air. “Right now New York is still aimed at the upper east and west sides. It’s got to expand and it’s got to make its own stars.”
         “Even expand to Queens?”
         “Wouldn’t that be sweet? Two million people live in Queens, many of them aspiring to live in Manhattan and be like the people on the upper east and west side. Oh, and by the way, hip hop is not going away. Some of those rappers are buying more Cristal Champagne than all of France. New York would bristleat being called racist, but unless you’re Cecily Tyson  on Broadway or Halle Berry in an Oscar-winning film, they don’t give a rat’s ass about Black people.”
         “Okay,” said Katie, “and is this all a dream for you or part of a plan to become a Master of the Media world?
         “Both. It would be very, very nice to own New York, and, if I turn it around, I gain a lot of cred in all the media.”
         Some of what Deutsch said started to sound familiar after he interviews with Epstein and Weinstein,  but she wasn’t yet sure if a greed for power or money was behind their plans.
         The salad, pizza and chicken came.
         “Mind if I have one of your fries?” asked Deutsch. “I can’t resist them but I don’t want to go through a whole batch of them,” patting his stomach.
         “I feel your pain,” said Katie. “You want to just eat a while, then talk?”
         “No, no, no, it’s fine with me to talk.”
         From behind a voice boomed.
         “Deutsch, you being interviewed by Katie Couric or dating her?”
         The man stuck out his hand and Katie said, “Cavuto, it’s Cavuto.”
         The man apologized. “Just a dumb slip of the tongue. I know very well who you are. Miss Cavuto. The death-defying writer for McClure’s.”
         “Katie, meet James Murdoch,” said Deutsch. “His father used to own New York.”
         James (right) was Rupert Murdoch’s younger son, whom many considered would be the heir apparent to the Murdoch News Corp empire. At the moment, as chairman and CEO its ailing Asian satellite service, Star Television, which had hemorrhaged $100 million when he took over, he was in New York making the media rounds.
         “Donny, I’m in town for three days,” he said, with only the barest of Australian accents. “You have time for lunch or a meeting? Things I’d like to talk about with you.”
         “Not interested in buying back New York magazine, are you?”
         “Maybe not this year, but I hope you get it. It was a lot of fun for my father to run while he had it. And it made money.”
         “I’m full up this week with lunches but come by the office or my apartment any time you’re free. And say hello to your father, brother and sister.”
         Murdoch shook Katie’s hand and apologized again for the name mix-up. Katie just waved her hand and said, “Not a problem.” She then wondered if perhaps she should try to interview his father, even if he’d sold New York a decade before.
         They were close to finishing their lunch, and the bottle of Chardonnay was empty. Deutsch stuck its neck down in the ice  bucket.
         “Mind if I ask you about the other bidders?” Katie asked.
         “I don’t know all of them. The investment bankers guys are not my crowd. Morty Zuckerman I know well. His home in Southampton is fairly close to mine in East Hampton. We socialize. Never did any business with him. He’s loaded. Real estate money. If you can get into those high stakes, you fart through satin Jockeys the rest of your life. He could buy New York outright if he wanted to, especially if he unloaded the Daily News, which has got to be a write-off. What he really wants is to get into office in DC. Senator, maybe President. I don’t see that happening in the near future. Even if he’s a Canadian, he’s got a pronounced New York Jewish streak that wouldn’t fly well outside of the northeast. Plus, since he is Canadian, he’s prohibited from running for President.”
         “How about Epstein and Weinstein?”
         “Two more neglected Jewish kids with a passion to be loved, preferably by young WASP girls.  In Jeffrey’s case, very young. Not by accident is his benefactor Leslie Wexner, who owns Victoria’s Secret.”
         “I keep hearing this,” said Katie, “and you know it to be true?”
         “Ha, he’d be the last to deny it, except now he’s got the Palm Beach police swooping down on him. You met Ghislaine?”
         “Yeah, I met her before I met Epstein.”
         “She’s the keyholder, and because she’s Robert Maxwell’s daughter she carries that air of British respectability. But neither she nor Jeffrey ever put out a dime of their own money for anything they live in, drive in or fly in.”
         “I promised Epstein I wouldn’t get into any of that in order just to focus on the New York sale.”
         Deutsch wiped his mouth and paid the bill quickly. “Well, then, Katie, I gotta be honest, you’re following a much smaller story. Once this bidding war is over,  no one’s going to give a shit about the bidders who lost.”
         Katie had been turning that prospect over in her minds since hearing about Epstein and Weinstein’s off-the-record activities. Her colleague had delved into some of Epstein’s excesses in her Vanity Fair article, but the stakes seem to be getting higher. It was, in one sense, a very old story: very powerful men manipulate lesser men and dominate women through sexual compromise and depravity.
         “Listen, Katie, you need to talk more, call me. Here’s my private line. And say hello to Katie Couric if you see her.”
         Katie made no answer and Deutsch made no notice, striding back into the front dining to schmooze with the remaining potentates of New York’s media behemoth. He gave a man hug to McCarty, left a five dollar bill for his coat and hailed a cab on 55th Street.

 

 © John Mariani, 2024



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    NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR


THE REMARKABLE BARGAIN
THAT IS SAUTERNES

By John Mariani


                                                                         Château  d'Yquem

 

      I seriously doubt that most wine lovers could name a single Sauternes other than the famous Château d’Yquem. A handful of connoisseurs might be familiar with a few other First Growth Sauternes like Suduiraut, La Tour Blanche, and Rieussec, but Yquem’s status—and price—has long eclipsed all other of these intensely sweet Bordeaux dessert wines. 

      Yquem, which once belonged to Eleanor of Aquitaine (left) and was for over 200 years under the control of the Lur-Saluces family (it was taken over in 1999 by LVMH), has always commanded the highest prices in the region, anywhere from $300-$400 for the newest vintage.

      All these dessert wines—which the British call “pudding wines”—undergo the tricky process of achieving their elegant sweetness by being attacked by a fungus called Botrytis cinerea that literally rots the grapes, devouring five-sixths of their acids and one-third of its sugars.  But this so-called “noble rot” also concentrates the remaining water and sugar into a pulp that, after fermentation, results in an intensely luscious, balanced wine of between 17.5 and 26 percent alcohol.

      Yield is always very low. Many grapes become too rotted and are left to wither away.  The time-consuming, careful, selective picking of the grapes means only a portion of them will actually go to the winery, and the best Sauternes producers make only 60-90 cases per acre a year, whereas the average winery in Médoc makes about 220 or more. There are also years when the entire crop might be lost to rot.

The distinction between Sauternes and many other dessert wines, including those “late harvest” wines attacked by botrytis, is that the predominant Semillon grape used in Sauternes achieves a complexity and depth of acid-sugar balance hard to achieve elsewhere in the world.

      All of which should make Sauternes very, very expensive. But while no one denies the supremacy of Yquem, at least half a dozen other Sauternes estates battle it out each year for second honors. Even so sales have been flagging for years, making them among the best bargains in French wine. The 2022 Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey—a First Growth—sells for about $68; 2000 Suduiraut 2021 (considered a great year) for $129, and 2021 La Tour Blanche sells for about $75.

     I don’t know many people who drink Sauternes on a regular basis, and some drink it on its own. The problem with most desserts is that “dessert wines” compete with the sweet, cloying flavors of, say, a chocolate cake or apple tart. Baron Philippe de Rothschild (left) insisted that only ice cold Yquem be served with foie gras, because the rich fattiness of the liver is buoyed by the luscious sweetness of the wine. Roquefort cheese is considered a classic marriage because the sweetness balances the saltiness of the cheese.  

      After World War II and up through the 1980s La Tour Blanche was owned by an agricultural college  and tasted homogenized year after year. Now, with more Sémillon in the blend and sensible use of new oak, the wine now shows a great deal of bright fruitiness and layers of botrytis flavors.

      Château Caillou, from the Barsac section, is a Second Growth (whose owner uses the gravel stone called cailloux to pave tennis courts),  and it is a lighter, delicate style that will indeed go well with a simple white or yellow cake or butter cookies at a meal’s end. The estate’s Private Cuvée is their top of the line.

      Château Doisy-Daëne  is a beauty, vinified in stainless steel and aged in new oak, with lots of floral and aromatic notes in the bouquet, then a pretty burst of citrus mixed with sweet orange flavors.  A sheer delight.

      First growth Château Climens, owned by Bérenice Lurton,  is always a bargain, often considered a rival of Yquem at one-third the price. It’s a Barsac that sleeps for two years in oak, acquiring strata of toasty flavors along finely tuned acids and creamy sweetness. 

       Château Suduiraut and Château Coutet, both often mentioned in the same league as Yquem, are actually quite different from one another. The Suduiraut, now owned by AXA Millésimes,  has a luscious but never cloying intensity underpinned by a backbone of acid and oak, ideal as a dessert by itself. The Coutet 2001 has more spiciness up front and on the finish, which makes it ideal for fruit tarts or blue cheeses, but its Cuvée Madame, which comprises but five percent of the production, is exceptional.   

      All Sauternes are sipped in small quantities—a half-bottle is usually sufficient for four people.  But if Yquem’s reputation and rarity keeps it among the world’s most expensive wines for only celebratory occasions, the availability and modest price of so many other great Sauternes allows anyone to enjoy them with friends throughout the year.


 


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FOOD WRITING 101: IT'S BEST NOT TO TAKE AN HALLUCINOGENIC DRUG BEFORE WRITING A RESTAURANT REVIEW

"If there’s a bowl of Lactaid set out at food establishments, and yes, sometimes there is, then I see the promise of milky superabundance on the horizon like some cosmic event, a pleasure so irresistible, so devastating, it can only be delivered with a warning."—Tejal Rao, "This California Restaurant Is Making Magic With Cheese and Masa" NY Times (12/25).

 




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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




❖❖❖







The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             








              

MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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