MARIANI’S

 

Virtual Gourmet

SEPTEMBER 13, 2026                                                                                            NEWSLETTER



Founded in 1996 

ARCHIVE






❖❖❖



REQUIEM FOR A RESTAURANT:
THE LEGACY OF LE CIRQUE LAS VEGAS
By John A. Curtas



NEW YORK CORNER
THE WAVENY TAVERN BY PXK

By John Mariani


THE BISON
CHAPTER  FORTY

By John Mariani
 


NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
FLADGATE PARTNERSHIP DECLARES
2024 A GREAT VINTAGE PORT

By John Mariani

THE ART AND THE AGON(Y) OF TRANSLATION
By John Mariani 




❖❖❖



REQUIEM FOR A RESTAURANT:

THE LEGACY OF LE CIRQUE LAS VEGAS

By John A. Curtas




 

Le Cirque in New York was once the most famous restaurant in America. Such was its reputation on October 15, 1998, from the first pour of Perrier-Jouët it placed our tacky gambling town on the world’s gastronomic map. Le Cirque was a French restaurant with an Italian soul. No matter the incarnation (and I was fortunate enough to eat at the original in  New York), the menu was always decidedly haute, while the service was anything but haughty. (The enduring myth of imperious, snooty service was born of the typical, tendentious New Yorkers who love any tale, no matter how tall, that confirms their insecurities.)

Our Le Cirque never had to deal with that problem. It was welcomed with open arms by locals and tourists alike, who were grateful for everything from the elegant circus tent decor, to the jewel box setting (which flattered everyone), to a menu which could be as simple or extravagant as you wanted.

All of this was overseen by the legendary Sirio Maccioni (right, with author John A. Curtas), who, along with his wife Egi and three sons, brought oodles of Italian charm to the High Mojave to match their big city attention to detail. In those early days, it seemed like all of them were living at their restaurants (including the inestimable CIRCO next door, which single-handedly made every local Eye-talian eatery look puny by comparison.)






A succession of great chefs––Mark Poidevin, David Werly, et al––came and went, but the food never faltered, and the service never wavered — running like a finely-tuned watch, with a staff that has barely changed in 28 years. But Mother Nature and Father Time claim us all, and by 2018 (twenty years into its run), Sirio’s heart and health were no longer in the game, and he retired to his beloved Tuscany.

Grubby corporate fingerprints replaced the painstaking hands of the family, and an absurd, obligatory tasting menu followed, using risible amounts of caviar to justify its larcenous prices.

Thus did milking the old cow begin, which is fitting because the Bellagio  now has all the charm of a stockyard, full of compliant cattle being led to slaughter. The restaurant is now a relic, an otiose ode to a bygone era, where hospitality served the client, instead of the customers serving the spreadsheet.

No one should be sadder than I at Le Cirque’s demise, but watching everything I once loved about the great restaurants of Las Vegas get destroyed by real estate deals has robbed me of the ability to feel sorrow.

Since the romance I once held for this town has been hollowed out, I shall leave you with a bit of romantic poetry to summarize my feelings (with apologies to William Wordsworth): I shall not weep for thee, Le Cirque, even as I pine for the days of splendor in the glass, of the radiance which was once so bright, and the glory of the flower which, now gone, will never again be.

 

 

John Curtas has been covering the Las Vegas restaurant scene since 1995--for 15 years as a restaurant/critic commentator on KNPR-Nevada Public Radio and also as a critic for Las Vegas Life, CityLife and Las Vegas Weekly magazines.
He now podcasts about the Las Vegas restaurant scene at Eat. Talk.

 
















❖❖❖






                                    NEW YORK CORNER


THE WAVENY TAVERN BY PXK
36 Pine Street
New Canaan, CT
203-920--1414
By John Mariani




 

       Peter X. Kelly has for four decades been regarded as one of the finest and most innovative chefs in the Tristate area, first when he distinguished himself at the fine dining restaurant Xaviar’s in Piermont, NY,  and other upscale restaurants in Rockland County, then for an eight-year tenure at X20, on Yonkers’ Hudson River waterfront. Last year he joined Basso By PXK in Chappaqua as partner. Now this year he has given the affluent suburb New Canaan, CT,  its best restaurant since  Elm opened in 2012.

      The space had been the handsome if predictable Waveny Polo Bar and Grill and before that South End, and Kelly and his operations partner Dan Camporeale, have maintained the upholstered, clubbish look with a grand bar, hunter green walls set with equestrian photos, globe chandeliers and in the dining room spacious well-set tables and roomy banquettes, swag curtains and mahogany-colored wooden booths.  Little details  add up, like having the service station and ice buckets strategically within easy reach and sturdy comfortable chairs. Tablesettings are excellent, wine glasses thin.

       It is the goal of every committed chef to distinguish his food from others, but the real knack is to take longstanding favorites on the menu of the American tavern and grill and to tweak them so as to seem brand new and so much better. That is what Kelly is so good at: He assesses every dish with an eye to improvement while never betraying what makes a dish so good to begin with.

         I’ve known Kelly forever, so, as I have in the past, I simply let him decide our meal for four people. Thus, you may begin with colossal lump (an industry term for the largest size) crabmeat with celery remoulade and grapefruit with a tangy Louis dressing that is a meal in itself. Kelly somehow has access to New England bay scallops (right), which are very rare in the market this summer, and because they are sure sweet all on their own, he just fries them and adds the traditional tartare sauce. In another nod to simplicity as respect for his ingredients, Kelly takes jumbo soft-shell crabs crisped in rice flour and served with French radish and crab butter.

    As you’ll find at Basso by PXK, pastas go beyond the usual, and at The Waveny he makes his own tagliatelle alla cacio e pepe but adds, Sungold tomatoes that purists will sniff at.

You don’t run across lobster pot pie (left) too often, and, once you’ve tasted Kelly’s rendition, with crispy, golden brown pastry crust, crowded with plenty of lobster meat, a little  tarragon and Hon-Shimeji mushrooms, you’ll wonder why not.
    Among other seafood entrees, the Alaskan black cod with tomato jam glaze, sweet corn mousseline and green onion is a wise combination, and while I question why Kelly puts the ubiquitous branzino on his menu rather than so many other species he might find in the Atlantic waters, his version gains by being in a vegetable, hot-and-sour broth.

        He could get away with merely serving good meat expertly cooked, but he adds to the pleasure, as in his beef cheeks with gremolata and grilled trumpet royal mushroom and farro risotto lashed with the meat’s braising juices. A well-fatted, massive pork chop enjoys a fiery bite with Calabrian chili, sided with autumnal gingered sweet potatoes and charred broccolini.

This is a tavern so there’d better be a good burger on the menu, and Kelly’s is based squarely on the quality of the meat, not the smothering add-ons so many cooks toss on top. His just gets good New York cheddar and caramelized onions on a buttery brioche bun.

    Desserts continue in line with the sumptuous degree of the previous food, starting with a Key Lime tartlet with buttery Graham Cracker crust and soft cream; a satiny Belgian chocolate dome filled with chocolate genoise and crunchy praline (left); warm bread pudding with crème anglaise; and a devastatingly rich sticky toffee pudding   with hazelnut ice cream. One  bite is all you need; take three.

    The wine list is not huge, nor need it be when it’s so carefully chosen with such unusual bottlings; mark-ups are on average 150%.

    Price, by the way, are a bit lower than elsewhere in the region, with most main courses under $44.

    The Waveny Tavern by PXK is a rare thing, a dining establishment where every detail has been carefully thought through and registers with equal weight, from cuisine to décor to service. Decades in the business and the kitchen make such a thing possible, and Kelly is right to put “PXK” in the name.

 

Open for lunch Tues.-Thurs; Brunch Fri. & Sat.; dinner Tues-Sun.

 







❖❖❖


THE BISON
By John Mariani



                       Donald Trump, Melania Knauss, Jeffrey Epstein and Ghislaine Maxwell


CHAPTER  FORTY

 

       Upon their return to the U.S. David went to his home up the Hudson, left things unpacked and collapsed into bed. The exhaustion of the plane ride and the jet lag had worked their wiles, but he also felt wholly drained by his experience in St. Moritz, and he was already missing Katie’s presence. Usually after their adventures together he didn’t see her for weeks as she put together her story. Then, after the story came out and Katie dutifully brought pre-publication copies of the magazine up to his house, they didn’t see each other for a while.
    David didn’t exactly enjoy feeling  sorry for himself but it kept her clearly in his mind’s eye. He just always wondered if theirs really was just a professional relationship, albeit one bound by repeated dangers, and he reminded himself that he and Katie had once gone to Paris for a vacation—one that itself turned into an adventure.
       Katie, meanwhile, immediately went to the office the next day to huddle with McClure’s staff, detail her story, bring a copy of her tape recordings and start further research that included reading over coverage in U.S. papers about her time in St. Moritz. She really didn’t have much time to see or think about David in the flurry of activity to get the story nailed down, written, fact-checked, go through photos and art direction and all the other rubrics of magazine publishing.
       There were plenty of loose ends, not least what would happen in the Swiss legal system as Katie pulled together her story. She would, of course, be putting in phone calls to everybody she’d interviewed before about Epstein, including Donald Trump, Mort Zuckerman, Harvey Weinstein and the rest, hoping for comment. Epstein would never speak to her, but she hoped Ghislaine Maxwell would. In fact, one of the first calls Katie received that morning was from her.
        “Katie, it’s Ghislaine. You’re all right?”
       “I’m fine, thanks.”
       “I told you Pierce is a beast and might try something like that.”
       Katie thought fast about why Maxwell was calling her again and what to ask her. Maxwell’s expression of sympathy and concern was not suspect but why she would even bother to call was. Katie decided she had to play it along strict journalistic lines.
       “I have to ask you, Ghislaine,” she began, “and I think you know that this is on the record, why are you calling me?”
       “I told you, I’m glad you did not get hurt.” There was a pause, then, “I will tell you this, off the record?”
       “No, Ghislaine. That’s no longer possible. If you don’t want me to know it and use it don’t say it.”
       Another pause. “Right,” said Maxwell. “Then I will say what I said before: Jeffrey believes that her death was an accident.”
       “By a drug overdose?”
       “Yes, I suppose so.”
       “And that it was not Angus but Richard Pierce who was in the room with the girl?”
       “Yes. I have to tell you that I was not there that weekend, so I can’t say anything about what happened.”
       “Well, you know, Ghislaine, that this exposes Jeffrey to a great deal of investigation. The police and the feds seem to have good reason to get a court order to get into Jeffrey’s various properties.”
       “I suppose you’re right, Katie. As I said, I wasn’t there.”
       “Ghislaine, stop being coy. You telling me that you were always and forever unaware of what Jeffrey and his friends were doing? That many of these girls were underage? And that you had nothing to do with bringing them to Jeffrey for sexual purposes? Across state lines, I might add.”
       “I’m not going to speak about all that, Katie. I just wanted to tell you I was glad you were safe and for bringing out the truth about my father’s murder. I guess that’s all I have to say."
       Maxwell hung up. Katie pushed her head back and said to herself, “And this is just the beginning.”
      
    Dobell knew as much, meaning that Katie’s story would now have to focus largely on the Pierce’s alleged murders, certainly not without reference to their behavior in Epstein’s properties, but it was no longer a story about the rot and depraved Epstein entourage. That was going to be a story everybody in the media would be following as it wended its way through door after door, legal and circumstantial, across two continents. Dobell certainly allowed that Katie, too, should keep her nose to the grindstone but first to write the best and  most objective story she could about the Pierces, given that she and David were unwilling participants. It would be tricky, but Katie had pulled it off admirably with all her former stories that involved David and her.
           Katie began calling everyone she’d previously spoken to, including those whom David had had a closer tie to, such as  Ramona Sanchez and Vargas. She wanted comments from all the New York powerbrokers whom she’d interviewed during the New York Magazine investigation. Most said they’d all heard of Pierce but had never met him. Those who had said it was never at one of Epstein’s parties. Every one of them said they were shocked, even if the y found Pierce’s business dealings  unsavory. Only Donald Trump seemed to defend Pierce, saying, “I didn’t really know the guy that well. He had a lot of money, owned a lot of real estate—he even had a condo in my Trump Tower—and his son Richard seemed like a nice guy. Angus liked to play the tough guy, but, hey, I’ll be honest with you, all those guys they called the ‛Bisons’ weren’t playing touch football.”
       David didn’t see much reason to call Vargas but since Katie asked him to, he did. David already knew that Vargas had known about Sarah’s death and how he thought that was the kind of thing that could bring the whole house down.
       “You think they goin’ to bring me in to talk to me about this shit?” asked Vargas.
       “I can’t see how they won’t. I don’t think you’re going to get a trip to Switzerland out of it though,” said David.
       “Switzerland? Man, that is way too cold for a Cubano like me. I don’t like freezin’ my balls off and drinkin’ Swiss Miss.”
       “Just play it cool with the feds this side of the Atlantic and give them as much material as you can. They’re not interested in lowlife like you.”
       “Then I guess bein’ a lowlife pays off in more ways than one. The wages of sin, man, wages of sin.”       David hated that Vargas seemed to be getting chummy.
       “Just remember, you and I may still have a date sometime in the future. I haven’t forgotten that spider in the box, Vargas. I’d still like to split your head open.”
       Vargas laughed and said, “Well, then, you just stay out of my way too. You just an old ex-cop to me, Greco. Nothin’ to stop me from poppin’ you anytime I see you.”
       “Well, that wasn’t our agreement, but at this point I don’t really give a fuck.”

 


       Katie hated being a minor celebrity in the glare of the media of which she was a part. She’d long ago tired of the “Nancy Drew” comparison to her exploits and didn’t want to be the focus of other reporters’ stories. She’d been through it with all the other stories she’d written and almost gotten killed while doing them—although she did kind of like being called “The Indestructible Katie  Cavuto”—and she was tired of the interruptions to her work. These things always took about ten days to a week until the news cycle passed, and she was hard at work on writing her own story and didn’t need the interruptions.
       Meanwhile she worked most days at the office in concert with researchers and the photo editor. She’d take photos along the way of those she’d met in Florida and St. Moritz, and if they weren’t usable the photo department would use them to have professional shots taken.
       One afternoon the phone rang and it was Susanna calling from Miami.
       “Hey, Katie, you okay? I mean, I heard what happened in Switzerland to you and David.”
       “We’re fine. What about you?”
       “I’m good, real good. I left Vargas. I’m out of the business. Done with all of it. I’m gonna get my life back.”
       Katie felt enormous relief to hear what the young woman said.
       “Did you break it off with Vargas? I remember he didn’t take kindly to his girls leaving him.”
       “Oh, he was pissed, all right. We had big fights about it. But I reminded him of everything I knew about him and Epstein and he backed off. Then I had Señora Sanchez call him, and that seemed to take the wind out him. So, I packed up my stuff—most of which I’m getting rid of, the whore clothes, y’know—and moved in with a friend I know from church. Lives off Biscayne Boulevard.”
       “So what’s your plan, if I may ask?”
       “I’m not sure really. Probably get a waitress job for the time being. What I’d really like to do is to get a job with social services where I can help with other girls who’ve got dragged in. I don’t have any degree in that, but I have a helluva lot of professional experience.”
       “That’s great to hear, Susannah. I think you’d be terrific at it.”
       “We’ll see. I know a lotta girls who want out but, as usual, their pimps keep them under their thumb.  It’s like a spell, really. They get taken care of until the abuse starts, then they get like terrified of leaving.And, Katie, y’know what? If the police want me to testify about anything to do with Epstein, I’ll do it. You let them know, I’ll do it in a heartbeat.”
       “Why don’t you call them yourself?”
       Susannah laughed. “A girl likes to be asked, Katie.”

     

       After a week or ten days the media were on to other news items and scandals: Italian Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi (right) was charged with a bribery scandal; British rock star Gary Glitter was convicted of molesting eleven- and twelve-year old girls in South Vietnam; South African Deputy President Jacob Zuma pleaded not guilty to a charge of rape. And the former Vice-President of Yugoslavia, Slobodan Milošević (below),  was found dead in his prison cell.
       By keeping her focus on the Pierces, which included plenty of connections to Epstein, Katie was able to finish the story within three weeks, during which David kept her up to date on how the Palm Beach police and the feds’  investigations were going. Apparently the police did get access to Epstein’s home, and the feds began looking deeply into his financial dealings with JP Morgan Chase. The Swiss had thus far refused extradition of the Pierces to the U.K. or the U.S., on the basis that the attempted murder was entirely within their purview.
       The prospect of Katie’s article appearing generated a good deal of media interest, though she refused  comment until the issue was ready to hit the stands. When it did, she agreed to appear on CNN, MSNBC, CNBC and CBS, with David by remote. She also did interviews with the New York Times, the Wall Street Journal and the London Times.
       As she always had in the past, Katie drove up to David’s house with pre-publication copies on McClure’s so they could go through it together.  As usual, David would prepare lunch and open a bottle of wine, this time a sparkling Prosecco.
       “So whaddaya think?” asked Katie as she showed David the cover, which was a montage of photos of the Pierces, Epstein, the St. Moritz chalet, the Palm Beach house and the bronze bison statue.  Katie and David’s photo together was kept small, next to their identification on the editor’s page. They paged through the issue slowly, finding the 7,500-word story spread out over several pages and continued in the back pages.
       “You happy with it?” asked David.
       “Pretty much so. Allen cut about a thousand words, mostly references to Sanchez and Susannah, but it was pretty painless. He said he does want me to keep my eyes open for developments in the Epstein story, maybe as a follow-up if he’s indicted for anything.”
       “Aren’t you due for vacation time now?”
       “Oh, yeah,” said Katie. “Three weeks on some blissful tropical island where no one can find me. Margaritaville and summer reading.”
       “No crime novels?”
       “God, no! I don’t need to be reminded of nefarious villains trying to kill off feisty heroines.”
       David served up a plate of steaming hot eggplant parmigiana with a green salad, and the two of them toasted.
       “To new adventures?” David offered.
       “Not like the last few together. I know I keep saying it, David, but I’m really not looking to be a feisty heroine. You seem to thrive on it.”
       David shrugged. “I can’t say I haven’t enjoyed our adventures together. I got to see a lot more places than when I was an NYPD cop, made some money from it, and you gotta admit, we did some great work together.”
       “That we did,” Katie said. “But, Jesus, I can’t take the stress and strain anymore.”
       David hesitated for a moment, then asked, “You going to your tropical island with the lawyer guy?”
       Katie sighed. “No, that’s over. He’s not going to leave Boston and I’m not moving up there. We kind of had a fond farewell a couple of weeks ago.”
       David said, “That’s too bad.” He cleared the table. From the sink he asked, “So you think you’ll ever get married?”
       Katie tilted her head. “Why? You asking?”


                                                                              THE END

EPILOGUE

 

●  Angus and Richard Pierce were tried in a Swiss court and found guilty of attempted murder, and Richard of possession of an illegal handgun. He was sentenced to ten years imprisonment; his father to seven. Angus served five years, then, in 2013, was tried for the murder of Robert Maxwell but not convicted. Also that year, Richard was extradited to the U.S. to face charges of manslaughter, sentenced to eight years and was released in 2019. Both Pierces returned to South Africa to live and sold off most of their media holdings outside of the country.

 
●  In 2006 the FBI launched “Operation Leap Year” against Jeffrey Epstein in a 53-page indictment, identifying 36 girls, some as young as 14 years old, whom Epstein had sexually abused. Epstein pleaded guilty to charges of soliciting and procuring prostitution, and as part of his plea deal it was agreed he would not tried for complicity in the murder of Sarah Doyle.  Also as part of his deal, the U.S. Attorney for the Southern District of Florida, Alexander Acosta, squashed the FBI indictment, along with those of four named co-conspirators and any unnamed "potential co-conspirators." Epstein’s lawyers included Kenn Starr and Alan Dershowitz.
    Epstein was sentenced to only eighteen months. The judge said that Epstein’s short sentence (he served thirteen) was because he was told that Epstein "belonged to [CIA] intelligence," was "above his pay grade" and to "leave it alone."
    An investigation of Epstein’s affairs by the Palm Beach Police stretched into 2008, when he lost  a large part of his fortune in that year’s financial crisis.  C
ourt documents showed that a search of Epstein's residence by Palm Beach Police detectives uncovered an receipt for books like SM 101: A Realistic Introduction, SlaveCraft: Roadmaps for Erotic Servitude – Principles, Skills and Tools and Training with Miss Abernathy: A Workbook for Erotic Slaves and Their Owners.
      Epstein did have to register  as a sex offender and pay restitution to three dozen victims identified by the FBI, but instead of  a state prison where sex offenders were usually sent, Epstein was housed in a private wing of the Palm Beach County Stockade. After three-and-a-half months, he was allowed to leave the jail on "work release" for up to 12 hours a day, 6 days a week—a privilege for which sex offenders were supposed to be ineligible.
    Epstein's cell door was left unlocked, he had access to the attorney’s room where a television was installed for him, then was moved to the Stockade's previously unstaffed infirmary and supposedly worked at the office of a foundation he had created shortly before reporting to jail, which he immediately dissolved upon being released. That office was monitored by "permit deputies" whose overtime was paid by Epstein. They were required to wear suits and to check in "welcomed guests" at the "front desk.” The guest logs were destroyed. 
    Epstein was allowed to use his own driver to drive him between jail and his office and other appointments. Upon release he served one year under house arrest, but while on probation made numerous trips in his private jets to New York and the Virgin Islands, as well as being allowed to go on shopping trips.
    After release and over the objections of Manhattan District Attorney Cyrus Vance Jr., Epstein had to register as a "level three" (high risk of repeat offense)  sex offender who had to check in with the NYPD every 90 days, but it was never enforced.
    Once at liberty, Epstein renewed his contacts and added new ones who included Bill Gates;  Barack Obama;
deputy secretary of state William Burns; academic Noam Chomsky; Swiss banker Ariane de Rothschild;  Goldman Sachs senior lawyer Kathryn Ruemmler; former secretary of the Treasury Lawrence Summers; ex-FedEx board member and co-CEO of Henry Kissinger’s consulting company Joshua Cooper Ramo; former Israeli prime minister Ehud Barak; Bard College president Leon Botstein;  and CIA director William Burns.
    Then, on July 6, 2019, Epstein was arrested on federal charges, accusing him of paying underage girls hundreds of dollars in cash for massages and then molesting them at his homes in Florida and New York. The police search of Epstein's home found two hidden cameras and photos of girls whom the police had interviewed in the course of their investigation. The FBI compiled reports on "34 confirmed minors" eligible for restitution, while the Miami Herald identified about 80 victims and located about 60 of them.
    After his conviction, Epstein arrived at the Metropolitan Correctional Center and spent 22 hours in the jail’s general population before officials moved him to the special housing unit  because of his notoriety. He was upset about wearing an orange jumpsuit and being treated “like a bad guy.”
    Medical records showed he was suffering from sleep apnea, constipation, hypertension, lower back pain and prediabetes and had been previously treated for chlamydia. He signed up for a kosher meal. 

Over the next 36 days Epstein tried to connect by mail with another high-profile pedophile: Larry Nassar, the U.S. gymnastics team doctor convicted of sexually abusing scores of female athletes, but the letter was never sent out by the prison.

On August 8, Epstein bought $73.85 worth of items from the prison commissary, including an AM/FM radio and headphones. He had $566 left in his account.

Placed on suicide watch, he was reported “sitting at the edge of the bed, lost in thought, with his head against the wall.” The next day he excused himself from a meeting with his lawyers to make a telephone call to his mother, who had been dead for 15 years.

The next day, August 10,  he was found hanged in his cell. The medical examiner ruled it a suicide. Though suspicions and conspiracy theories were rife about his death, a Justice Department investigation showed that the guards had been seriously derelict in their oversight of the prisoner, concluding that these blunders essentially created a situation where he “was provided with the opportunity to take his own life.”

 

●  A year later, Ghislaine Maxwell was charged with sex crimes, having helped recruit the underage girls that Epstein sexually abused and that she sometimes participated in the abuse herself. On December 30, 2021 she was found guilty and sentenced to 20 years in prison. After Trump’s election in 2024, the Justice Department moved Maxwell to a minimum security prison  for reasons never explained. Her attempts to have her case overturned have been unsuccessful.  

 



● 
In 2021 Virginia Giuffre brought a case against Prince Andrew under New York’s Child Victims Act, filing a civil action to show “all perpetrators of abuse should be held accountable.” Prince Andrew settled the case out of court  for at least  $13  million and was barred from any official duties by the Royal Family.
Giuffre died by suicide at her home Neergabby, Australia, on April  25, 2025, at the age of 41. Giuffre's father alleged that "somebody got to her."

  
●      In 2013 Staley left JP Morgan Chase to become CEO of London-based bank Barclays, which fired him in 2021 after British banking regulators raised questions about how he had characterized his relationship with Epstein.  In November, 2022 women who say they were abused by Epstein filed class actions against JP Morgan Chase and Deutsche Bank,  alleging that the banks provided financial services to Epstein that allowed him to operate his sex-trafficking ring. They said the banks did so “knowing they would earn millions of dollars” from their relationship with Epstein and chose to put “profits over the law.”   In 2023 court filings claimed that JP         Morgan had allegedly paid for Staley’s trips to meet Epstein and that the bank  maintained accounts for “all the girls and women publicly alleged in 2006 to be recruiters, accomplices or victims” of Epstein. It allegedly opened an account for a woman brought to the US in her teens whom Epstein was reported to call his  “Yugoslavian sex slave.”

 

●  In May 2023 Deutsche Bank AG agreed to pay $75 million to settle the  Jane Doe lawsuit. The following month, JP Morgan Chase agreed to pay $290 million to settle, saying, “We all now understand Epstein’s behavior was monstrous, and we believe this settlement is in the best interest of all parties, especially the survivors, who suffered unimaginable abuse at the hands of this man.”

In 2023 the US Virgin Islands issued subpoenas to several billionaire businessmen in relation to its legal action against JPMorgan Chase over the bank’s dealings with Epstein, requesting information from tycoons including Sergey Brin, the co-founder of Google; Thomas Pritzker, executive chairman of Hyatt Hotels; Mortimer Zuckerman; and Michael Ovitz, the venture capitalist.

●  In May, Jamie Dimon, CEO of JP Morgan Chase, which had severed ties with Epstein in 2013,  was deposed. “I don’t recall knowing anything about Jeffrey Epstein until the stories broke sometime in 2019,”said Dimon, “and I was surprised that I didn’t even — had never even heard of the guy, pretty much. And how involved he was with so many people.” Yet in 2023 Staley testified that he told Dimon about Epstein’s misconduct as early as 2006.



The  bank also alleged in a court filing that Cecilie de Jongh, wife of the U.S. Virgin Islands’ former governor,  and other officials in the territory had helped Epstein dodge sex offender laws and helped him procure his alleged victims. The suit alleged that she “drove donations from Epstein to support her husband and allies,” and that he also paid her $200,000 in 2007 alone for management work at his companies and paid the school tuition the governor’s children, the bank claimed in its filing. In  June, 2023, JP Morgan agreed to pay $290 million to the nearly 200 victims of a class action suit against Epstein. In September,  JP Morgan agreed to pay $175 million in penalties for “enabling Jeffrey Epstein’s sex trafficking.”

In addition the Virgin Islands sued billionaire investor Leon Black, who had been fired as CEO of Apollo Global Management in 2021,  and reached a settlement of $62.5 million (without admitting guilt) of facilitating Epstein’s sex trafficking. Black had paid Epstein $$158 million for  “financial advisory services”  through an entity called Southern Trust, operated out of a marina on St. Thomas.

 

After Epstein’s indictments, Les Wexner  cut off all ties to him, and in 2020 stepped down as CEO of Victoria’s Secret’s parent company L Brands amid criticism for his previous connection to Epstein. In a complaint filed by shareholders, Wexner was accused of fostering an “entrenched culture of misogyny, bullying and harassment.”

 



Jean-Luc Brunel
, head of MC2 Model Management funded by Epstein was accused of sex trafficking and was arrested in 2020 and charged with the rape of minors by French prosecutors after he went into hiding. Brunel died from an apparent suicide before his trial began.

 




Following allegations by more than 80 women of rape and sex abuse dating back three decades, Harvey Weinstein was
dismissed from his own company, Miramax,  and expelled from the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Science. The allegations led to the beginning of the #MeToo movement to hold powerful sexual predators to account. He was arrested and charged with rape in New York in 2018 and found guilty of two of five felonies  and sentenced to 23 years in prison. He was extradited to Los Angeles to face further charges and was sentenced to 16 years, to be served separately from his New York sentence.

 

Upon Epstein’s 2019 arrest, Alexander Acosta resigned as Labor Secretary under Donald Trump amid public outrage over his role in the initial investigation.

 

Having received $150,000 for the college from one of Epstein’s charitable foundations, Leon Botstein, president of Bard College, told the New York Times he didn’t regret it, saying, “People don’t understand what this job is. You cannot pick and choose, because among the very rich is a higher percentage of unpleasant and not very attractive people. Capitalism is a rough system.”

 





● 
In 2016 Donald Trump became President of the United States.
In 2019 he said, "I knew [Epstein]like everybody in  Palm Beach knew him," but contended he had not seen him or been in contact for years after finding out about his alleged sex crimes. In 2023 a jury found Trump guilty of defaming a woman named E. Jean Carroll, who had ccused him of rape. Trump was ordered to pay $5 million to Carroll.
    In 2025 the Democrats in the U.S. House of Representatives demanded release of all FBI files on  Epstein, and although millions of documents were turned over, millions more were not and are still being kept from scrutiny. As of 2026 the U.S. Justice Department under Attorney General Pam Bondi (who was fired) and her successor Todd Blanche never interviewed most of Epstein's accusers.

   

 

 

 © John Mariani, 2024









❖❖❖



                                NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR



FLADGATE PARTNERSHIP DECLARES
A 2024 VINTAGE FOR ALL ITS PORTS
By John Mariani




The Douro River Valley, Portugal




    Portugal's reputation for wines has always been based on the eminence of Port, beginning in the 17th century, with the most eminent of all being vintage Ports, declared only a few times in any decade. The 2024 vintage, now in bottle,  has been declared thus far by The Fladgate Partnership under the houses Taylor's, Fonseca, Croft and Quinta do Portal, all made in the Douro Valley. To find out why 2024 was so exceptional and what the current market conditions for Port––whose producers create a bewildering number of non-vintage styles––are as consumption, tastes and climate are in such flux, I interviewed Adrian Bridge, CEO of The Fladgate Partnership.


Q: Tell me the clear definition of what Vintage Port is and why it is not made in every vintage, as with other wines?

Vintage Port is the finest expression of a single harvest and represents the very highest level of quality a Port house can produce. The important distinction is that we do not make a classic Vintage Port every year. We only declare when the wines have the concentration, structure, balance and ageing potential to represent the house at its very best. If the quality is not there, we simply do not declare.
    Once declared, Vintage Port spends only a relatively short period in wood, usually around two years, before being bottled, where it can continue to develop for many decades. That combination of exceptional quality, very limited production and longevity is what makes Vintage Port unique.

 

Q: What are the conditions and metrics that made Fladgate declare a 2024 vintage?

There is no formula, and there is certainly no single number that tells us to declare a Vintage. Ultimately, you taste the wines and ask whether they have the quality and balance to become great Vintage Ports and to represent their respective houses for generations.
    In 2024, the winter provided very good water reserves, which were particularly important for the vineyards. We then had a warm growing season followed by a cooler harvest period. Those conditions allowed the grapes to achieve excellent maturity while retaining freshness and acidity.
    What impressed us most was the combination of purity of fruit, structure, fine tannins, freshness and balance. Just as important, the individual character of our three houses is very clear in the wines. Taylor’s tastes like Taylor’s, Fonseca like Fonseca and Croft like Croft. For us, that is always an important part of a great declaration.

 


Q: Why doesn’t every Port producer and competitor declare a vintage in any given year? This is the first time in seven years that all of yours were declared. Is it likely that all the producers will for 2024?

Every Port house makes its own decision. There is no committee that tells us when to declare, and there is no obligation for producers to agree with one another. That independence is an important part of the tradition. What makes 2024 particularly significant is that it has become the first general declaration of Vintage Port since 2017, with the majority of the leading Douro houses deciding independently that the quality justified a declaration. For us, it is also the first time since 2017 that Taylor’s, Fonseca and Croft have all declared classic Vintage Ports from the same year. And these are exceptionally small releases. We produced only 5,000 nine-liter cases of Taylor’s, 3,900 of Fonseca and 1,600 of Croft. We would always rather produce less wine at the quality we expect than increase volumes simply because there is demand for it.

 

Q: Why was 2024 such a small vintage?

Because only a very small proportion of the wines met the standard we require for classic Vintage Port. A Vintage declaration is a qualitative decision, not a commercial one. Once we have identified the very best wines, that determines the quantity available – not the other way around.  These are exceptionally small quantities, which makes 2024 one of the rarest releases we have made.  That scarcity is genuine. You cannot manufacture more Vintage Port after the harvest has passed.

 

Q: What is the point of having so many styles of Port that can confuse the potential customer, including Ruby, Tawny, Vintage, Vintage Reserve, Colheita, Late Bottled Vintage, Vintage Character, Single-Quinta Vintage, Crusted and Garrafeira, as well as producer names such as Founder’s Reserve, Hunting Port and Silval Vintage?

I would turn the question around. One of Port's great strengths is precisely its diversity.You do not need to understand every classification before you can enjoy Port, any more than you need to understand every appellation in France before drinking a glass of wine.
    There are essentially different styles for different occasions. Ruby Ports emphasize youthful fruit. Aged Tawnies develop complexity through long ageing in seasoned oak casks. LBV gives you much of the depth and character of a single harvest but is ready to drink when released. Vintage Port is the pinnacle – made in exceptional years and capable of ageing for generations.
    Then you have White Port, which can be served chilled or in a Porto Tónico, and Rosé Port, which has opened up completely different drinking occasions. Our responsibility as producers is not to eliminate that diversity. It is to make the category easier to navigate.

 

Q: Of these Port styles above, which are the best-selling?

It varies considerably by market. In the United States, Ruby and Aged Tawny are particularly important parts of our portfolio. Fonseca Bin 27 has introduced generations of American consumers to Port, while Taylor Fladgate 10 and 20 Year Old Tawny are very strong performers. LBV is also an important category for Taylor’s internationally. What is interesting is that these different styles provide different entry points into Port. Someone might first discover Port through an LBV, an Aged Tawny or even a Porto Tónico and later become interested in Vintage Port. There is no single journey into the category anymore, and I think that is a positive thing.

 

Q: Is there still a big market for Vintage Port? What are the largest importers?

Yes, although Vintage Port has never been about volume. It is a fine wine with limited production, and that is how we should think about it. The United Kingdom and the United States remain two of our most important international markets. But the audience for fine Port today is genuinely global, encompassing established collectors as well as consumers discovering Vintage Port through fine wine merchants, restaurants, travel and visits to Portugal. Portugal itself has also changed enormously as a market and as a showcase for Port. The growth of tourism in Porto and the Douro means that millions of international visitors can now experience Port where it is made, understand the landscape and meet the people behind it. That is extraordinarily valuable for the category. What gives me confidence is that Vintage Port offers something increasingly rare in the modern wine world: authenticity, extraordinary longevity, provenance and genuine scarcity.

 

Q: Wine and spirits consumption has been dropping for several years, and even top Sauternes and German sweet wines have a problem selling their wines. What marketing plans do you have for increasing public perception?

We cannot pretend that drinking habits are not changing. They are. People are drinking less, but many are also drinking better and becoming more interested in authenticity, provenance and experience. That can actually work in Port's favour. Our job is not to persuade somebody to drink Port every day. It is to make Port relevant to more occasions and to make it easier for people to discover. That means continuing to invest in education and experiences in Porto and the Douro, bringing consumers closer to the vineyards and the history behind the wines. It also means showing the breadth of the category, from a chilled White Port or Porto Tónico before dinner to an Aged Tawny by the glass, an LBV with cheese or a great Vintage Port shared at the end of a meal.
    At the same time, we should not modernize Port by removing what makes it special. More than three centuries of history, extraordinary vineyards, traditional winemaking and wines capable of ageing for generations are tremendous assets.  The opportunity is to make those traditions relevant to today's consumer rather than trying to reinvent them.

 

Q: How has climate affected the vineyards?

The most obvious change is greater variability. We have always worked in a demanding region, but today we need to think even more carefully about water management, vineyard exposure, soil health, biodiversity and the timing of the harvest. The Douro is fortunate because it has enormous diversity, different altitudes, exposures, grape varieties and vineyard sites, and that gives us important tools with which to adapt. In 2024, good winter water reserves were extremely important, followed by a warm growing season and then cooler conditions during harvest, which helped us retain freshness and achieve balanced ripening.
    We have to think in generations. Some of our vineyards have been producing extraordinary wines for centuries, and our responsibility is to ensure that they can continue to do so for the next 50 or 100 years.

 


Q: Should Port producers try to get away from the dated image of a man sitting before the fireplace with his hound, drinking a glass of Port?

I have nothing against the man, the fireplace or indeed the hound! The problem is only if that becomes the single image people have of Port. There will always be a place for the ceremony of opening and decanting a great Vintage Port and sharing it after dinner. That tradition is part of Port's appeal, and we should not be embarrassed by it. But Port has many other lives. 
    The Porto Tónico is a very good example. White Port, tonic and citrus make a wonderfully refreshing aperitif, and it has been enjoyed in Portugal for generations. You can drink it on a terrace in Porto, beside the sea or with friends before dinner.
    So I don't think we need to replace the fireplace. We simply need to show that Port also belongs on the terrace.


 





❖❖❖



THE ART AND THE
AGON(Y) OF TRANSLATION



                                        “Poetry is what gets lost in translation.”––Robert Frost

 
By John Mariani



       It’s a little late to join the debate over the merits and demerits of Christopher Nolan’s film The Odyssey, but while my own criticism of the work is more dramatic and cinematic than academic, I begrudge no filmmaker or any artist the right to create his own vision of a work by an author(s) about which we know nothing and about events that never happened to characters who never existed. The Odyssey is a grand, rollicking fairy tale, as appropriate for entertaining a royal court as around a campfire, and it was not even written down in Greek until the Greeks developed an alphabet in the 8th century BCE. The earliest manuscript dates to the 3rd century, when a Roman dramatist Livius Andronicus translated it into Latin.

       For hundreds of years the poem was transmitted orally by singers who had no text to guide their memory. Later, libraries might own either or both “city editions” and “individual editions” used as school texts. Copy editors were few and far between in those days to make sure every word was correct.

       The Byzantines used a Greek version, but the Renaissance Europeans had better access to Latin translations, which were then translated into German (1537) and English (1616), in iambic pentameter, as opposed to the original’s dactylic hexameter. Since then, various authors––not always Greek language scholars––provided new versions to suit their times: Alexander Pope’s in rhymed heroic couplets (1725-6) was very much in the aura of the English Enlightenment, while others cast the 12,000-line poem into prose. Some are literal, word for word, others fanciful, many pedantic. As contemporary British scholar Edith Hall warned the reader, “Be wary of   translators, convinced that they understand the moral outlines of the story and have often imposed meanings of their own.”

       Of recent translations of The Odyssey, the 2020 rendition by Emily Wilson (below) has garnered the most praise both for its exactitude and for its readability. Indeed, I’ve found it very enjoyable reading, despite the hundreds of references to obscure gods and their spawn, the lines racing along as, I’m told, the original poem must have. It was certainly not a stodgy poem––one critic of the wildly popular version translated by Pope (and assistants) described it as “Homer in a powdered wig declaiming in a baroque theater.” Compare Pope’s opening lines

 

The man for wisdom’s various arts renown’d,
Long exercised in woes, O Muse! resound;
Who, when his arms had wrought the destined fall
Of sacred Troy, and razed her heaven-built wall,
Wandering from clime to clime, observant stray’d,
Their manners noted, and their states survey’d,
On stormy seas unnumber’d toils he bore,
Safe with his friends to gain his natal shore:

 

. . . with Wilson’s:

 

Tell me about a complicated man.

Muse, tell me how he wandered and was lost

when he had wrecked the holy town of Troy,

and where he went, and who [sic] he met, the pain

he suffered on the sea, and how he worked
to save his life and bring his men back home.

 

       The plot and sentiments are the same in W.D. Rouse’s prose translation (1937), though in his first lines, the Muse is never even mentioned: “This is the story of a man, one who was never at a loss.”  Prosaic it most certainly is. For The Odyssey is not just a collection of ripping yarns full of strange goddesses and Greek revelers. It is a poem, rich in its imagery, rolling in its cadence and truly meant to be sung, with its repeated Homeric epithets like “wine-dark sea,” “rosy-fingered Dawn” (below, by Guido Remi) and “earth-shaking Poseidon,” precisely as folk balladeers would repeat “old man winter,” Robin Hood’s “merrie men” and “snow white breast.”

       Translating is damn difficult. The idea that a translation of any kind can be accurate and at the same time express all the nuances, connotations and denotations, as well as the sound of an original text seems highly improbable. In even the simplest English slang, say, “Isn’t she a crackerjack?” the reference is only clear to an American of a certain age who knows the connotation of “crackerjack,” as well as appreciating those "k" sounds. A “cuppa” coffee has its own sound, while substituting “java” or "Joe” for “coffee” needs more than a one-word translation to provide the meaning, as do other slang terms like “mud,” “rocket fuel,” “jitter juice,” “unleaded,” “fix” and “brain juice.” Footnotes may explain the meaning but the actual translation does not. The French “jus de nervosité” for “jitter juice” sounds just plain ridiculous, as does the Italian for “a cuppa rocket fuel”: “Una tazza di carburante per razzi.” How does one translate Cockney slang like “trouble and strife” for “wife” into Chinese?

The Judaeo-Christian Bible, aside from its own standing as edifying fiction, is rife with textual errors and misinterpretations. First written down in Hebrew and Aramaic, it was translated into Koine Greek, Roman Latin and, since then, a hundred other languages. Mistakes abound: In Genesis, the Hebrew word tsela was long translated as “rib,” as in “Adam’s rib”; but the word more frequently means “side” or the whole body. The Hebrew “almah” means a young woman of child-bearing age, not, as in early Greek, Parthenos, for “virgin.” And despite Yam Suph being translated as “Red Sea,” the term actually means “reed sea,” which the Israelites might have crossed, had they ever been captive in Egypt, which they were not.

The Romance Languages (French, Italian, Portuguese, Spanish, Romanian) offer another hurdle because most words end in a vowel, as do Federico Garcia Lorca's surrealistic lines from Romance Sonámbulo: "Verde que te quiero verde," whose translation as "Green, how I want you green"  sounds like something Kermit the Frog would croon.
    The finest translation (2024) of Dante's Tuscan tongue used in his Divina Commedia is by Michael Palma (himself a published poet), who not only maintains the original's terza rima scheme (invented by Dante for the poem) but artfully captures the voluptuous sound and majesty of the poetry throughout the entire Inferno, Purgatorio and Paradiso. As Palma writes of the text, "With the Inferno we are dealing not with a mere fourteen lines [of a sonnet] but with forty-seven hundred, in a book-length poem that not only tells a vivid, intricate story but also engages religion, morality, history, politics, myth, philosophy, psychology, and the  author-protagonist's personal experiences," and he admits that an "ideal translation is, of course, impossible. . . . In practical terms, my approach means that every problem of translation must be solved not by the unflinching imposition of some abstract theory or principle, but by the immediate needs, in context, of that particular moment of the poem." No one said it would be easy.

Any poet can rhyme and make music, but great poets help create a new language, not least Shakespeare, who added 1,700 words to English, including “alligator,” “bedroom,” “downstairs,” “gossip,” “kissing,” “zany” and “skim milk,” which in Turkish is “yağsiz süt.”

Elizabethan puns are barely understood by English readers today and, for that, not very funny. And anyone with a scholarly edition of Shakespeare’s works could spend an equal amount of time reading the gloss of what words were erroneously copied down from various early editions.  In As You Like It, whose text is considered largely uncorrupted in the First Folio, there were still plenty of printer’s errors that later scholars sought to correct by conjecture: “Shew” or “shoe,” “whooping” or “hooping,” “wearing” or “wearying,” “swoon” or “sound.”

       The more deliberately personalized or obscure a poet gets, like Gertrude Stein, whose cinematic word play by frame-by-frame repetition (“A rose is a rose is a rose”), becomes all the more puzzling in  another language. What does one make of so many of Ezra Pound’s Cantos that play with syntax, onomatopoeia, esoterica and Asian ideograms––as well as foreign languages within the text––that are hard enough to decipher in English let alone Czech? Four scholars worked for years to assemble a 332-page Annotated Index to the Cantos, containing 17,000 explications of words, foreign phrases and “other exotica” of the first 88 Cantos, which explains the references but doesn’t consider the poem’s esthetic elements any  more than identifying the figures on the Sistine Chapel ceiling  explains Michelangelo’s genius as a painter.

       I have never peeked into any translations of James Joyce’s deliberately enigmatic dream poem Finnegans Wake (1922-39), because I am incapable of reading the original’s 628 pages of  English text, whose first page contains this:

 

 The fall (bababadalgharaghtakamminarronnkonnbronntonner-

ronntuonnthunntrovarrhounawnskawntoohoohoordenenthur-

nuk!) of a once wallstrait oldparr is retaled early in bed and later

on life down through all christian minstrelsy. The great fall of the offwall entailed at such short notice the pftjschute of Finnegan, erse solid man, that the humptyhillhead of humself prumptly sends an unquiring one well to the west in quest of his tumptytumtoes:

and their upturnpikepointandplace is at the knock out in the park

where oranges have been laid to rust upon the green since dev-

linsfirst loved livvy.” 

 

       So, too, how does one translate E.E. Cummings (left), whose jewel-like poems seem strung together with silken strings, tumbling, breaking off, ramming into each other within white space, seeming to come from outside the poem and still causing pleasure to those open to both the sound and sight:

 

    in Just- 

    spring          when the world is mud- 

    luscious the little 

    lame balloonman 

 

    whistles          far          and wee 

 

    and eddieandbill come 

    running from marbles and 

    piracies and it's 

    spring 

 

    when the world is puddle-wonderful 

 

    the queer 

    old balloonman whistles 

    far          and             wee 

    and bettyandisbel come dancing 

 

    from hop-scotch and jump-rope and 

 

    it's 

    spring 

    and 

 

         the 

 

                  goat-footed 

 

    balloonMan          whistles 

    far 

    and 

    wee

 

        

Emily Dickinson crafted elliptical miracles with phrases like “Hope is the thing with feathers,” which is easy to translate literally, but she gave her words layered meanings, like “Eden is that old-fashioned house” and “Forever is composed of Nows.”

And how does a translator hope to cope with lines' meaning, brilliant rhymes, rat-a-tat melodic sound and placement within the verses of so many of Cole Porter's songs. One would have to be a certain age simply to get the preponderance of wink-wink jokes in “You’re the Top,” released in 1934 when many of the references were wholly contemporary, like Mickey Mouse, Jimmy Durante and Boulder Dam (which was then still under construction).

 

You're the top
You're 
Mahatma Gandhi
You're the top
You're Napoleon brandy
You're the purple light of a summer night in Spain
You're the 
National Galleryyou're Garbo's salary
You're cellophane

You're sublime
You're a turkey dinner
You're the time
Of the Derby winner
I'm a toy balloon that's fated soon to pop
But if, baby, I'm the bottom
You're the top

 

You're the top!

You're the Colosseum

You're the top
You're the Louvre Museum.

You're a melody from a symphony by Strauss
You're a Bendel bonnet,
A Shakespeare sonnet,
You're Mickey Mouse.
You're the Nile,
You're the Tower of Pisa,
You're the smile on the Mona Lisa
I'm a worthless check, a total wreck, a flop,
But if, baby, I'm the bottom you're the top!

 

You're the top!
You're an Arrow collar
You're the top!
You're a Coolidge dollar,
You're the nimble tread of the feet of Fred Astaire,
You're an O'Neill drama,
You're Whistler's mama!

You're Camembert.


You're a rose,
You're Inferno's Dante,

You're the nose
On the great Durante.
I'm just in the way,
As the French would say, "De trop.”
But if, baby, I'm the bottom,
You're the top!
  You're the top!
You're a dance in Bali.
You're the top!

You're a hot tamale.
You're an angel, you,
Simply too, too, too diveen,
You're a Botticelli,
You're Keats,
You're Shelley!

You're Ovaltine!
You're a boon
You're the dam at Boulder,
You're the moon over Mae West's shoulder,
I'm the nominee of the G.O.P.
But if, baby, I'm the bottom,

You're the top!

 

You're the top!
You're a Waldorf salad.
You're the top!
You're a Berlin ballad.
You're the boats that glide
On the sleepy Zuider Zee,
You're an old Dutch master,

You're Lady Astor,
You're broccoli!

You're romance,
You're the steppes of Russia,
You're the pants, on a Roxy usher,
I'm a broken doll, a fol-de-rol, a blop,
But if, baby, I'm the bottom you're the top!

 

 

 

First lines of poems and novels are, obviously, extremely important to set the tone of an entire work, but how does one translate the oddly haunting  sonority and tone of “Call me Ishmael” in Moby Dick into Japanese ("Ishumēru to yonde kure ishuma") or Cambodian ("haw khnhom tha ai sme")? Indeed, arguments about how to give weight to a single word have long gone on about the first line of Albert Camus’ The Stranger: Maman est morte aujourdhui. Ou peut-être hier, je ne sais pas.” Is it an unemotional reaction? Or a simple statement of fact? Or so shocking that the narrator can barely speak? What should the right word be for “Maman” be? “Mother” (Stuart Gilbert); “Maman” (Matthew Ward). “Mom” or “Mommy?”

As Ryan Bloom wrote of the quandary, “There is little warmth, little bond or closeness or love in ‘Mother,’ which is a static, archetypal term, not the sort of thing we use for a living, breathing being with whom we have close relations. To do so would be like calling the family dog ‘Dog’ or a husband ‘Husband.’ The word forces us to see Meursault  [the narrator] as distant from the woman who bore him.”

    Perhaps the truest irony about translation is in the announcement by Emily Wilson, who has sold a million copies of her Odyssey, that she is about to undertake a second translation of the poem from scratch, “using somewhat more lines than the original, enabling more varied word-length and pacing. Also, I’ll have much more extensive end notes.”    Wilson's  announcement sounds as if like she has more marketing in the back of her mind rather than any radical alterations, but many scholars become obsessed with their subjects and spend their entire lives issuing volume after volume about writers about whom there is little left to be said, such as John Keats, Ernest Hemingway and Leo Tolstoy. It is worth asking, can  a translator easily become a fanatic who, in the words of George Santayana, “redoubles his effort when he has forgotten his original aim?”

    One of the most famous opening lines in literature is in Tolstoy's Anna Karenina (1878), which several eminent Russian-language expert translate as “Happy families are all alike; every unhappy family is unhappy in its own way,” but modern translator Marian Schwartz renders the line as “All happy families resemble one another; each unhappy family is unhappy in its own way," explaining that “The first half of this now famous saying is often translated using the word ‘alike.’ The sentence thus rendered becomes aphoristic: ‘All happy families are alike; each unhappy family is unhappy in its own way.’ Tolstoy said not that happy families are ‘alike’ (odinakovye) but rather that they ‘resemble’ one another (pokhozhi drug na druga). By not using the expected word in that first half, Tolstoy makes the reader take a second look and points to a more complicated opinion about those happy families.”     

         However useful and fine any translation can be, we may get a facsimile of the poem while the poetry eludes all but those who read the original text. We  may get the gist in a prose rendition, but in any translation what you see is what you get, with only a hint at what the poet aimed for.      

       Perhaps the most salient example of the ambiguity of a single word is the  famous and hilarious story of American General Anthony McAuliffe (right) of the 101st Airborne Division during the Battle of the Bulge in December 1944,  when he responded to a demand from German Major Henke to surrender by sending a capitalized, one word response: “NUTS!” Upon receipt Henke asked his subordinates what it meant, not knowing if the reply was affirmative or negative. A fast-thinking German-speaking G.I. responded, “Du kanst zum Teufel gehen”––“You can go to hell.” The meaning was then clear but came nowhere near the colloquial kinetic punch of what McAuliffe actually said.

 

 

 








❖❖❖

 


STRIKE UP THE BAND AND
GET THE BUG SPRAY!


"There is a particular frequency at which the trellis wire thrums when it is prodigiously and promiscuously laden with fruit and bounces to the afternoon winds racing in from the Bay. This frequency: of the night earth exhaling and of the birds cavorting in the canopy and the scritching of the bugs catching the light as the sun’s long shadows devolve to the blackness of the star-flecked bowl. So too, the metallic pitch of fluorescent lights exploding over the wine aisle and the demo table in the local big box store. Triad.”­­––Steven Kent Mirassou, “”Wine Music,” Wine Saves Lives. Com.











❖❖❖



 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




❖❖❖







The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             








              

MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

If you wish to subscribe to this newsletter, please click here: http://www.johnmariani.com/subscribe/index.html



© copyright John Mariani 2026




1622