MIMI Omakase Room, Lisbon, Portugal

 

       Up until the turn of this century Portugal’s gastronomy was highly traditional and lacked the economy to produce a progressive cuisine. But since then, not only has Portugal’s wine industry produced superb results and diversification outside of Porto, but tourism has made it possible to expand the contours of its food culture. One of the those in the vanguard for the past fifty years is Lisbon-born chef/restaurateur Olivier da Costa, whose company Costa now runs 35 restaurants both in and outside the country.

       He first learned from his chef father, then studied at Lycée Français de Lisboa and the Escola Superior de Hotelaria e Turismo do Estoril, going on to work at Ritz Four Seasons Hotel, where began to see a much brighter future for his country’s cuisine. In 1996, he opened his first contemporary restaurant, Olimpio, introducing the famous picanha  grilled meats the Olivier Group has expanded to Olivier Restaurante in Bairro Alto in 2000. Today he has launched restaurants in Lisbon, Porto, Cascais, Algarve, São Paulo, Paris, Nice, Rome, London and Bangkok.

         Few are similar to another, with concepts going by the names Guilty, Yakuza, K.O.B., SEEN, XXL and the Clássico Beach Bar,  ÀCosta and the Real Pérola. In March, while, visiting Portugal, I was able to dine and interview Costa and his marketing manager Joel Pires to assess the food scene in Portugal and how they create so many new concepts in so many countries.

 

You opened your first restaurant in Lisbon at the young age of 21. Were you well prepared for such a venture at that age?

It was certainly daunting, but at that age you don’t overthink things, which can actually help. I grew up in restaurants with my father being the first chef in Portugal to win a Michelin Star, so it felt natural to me, but I was still learning every day. I had instinct, energy and a strong work ethic from my family. The rest came through experience, mistakes and just being very hands on from the beginning. Even now, decades later, I’m still learning. 

 

What was Lisbon’s restaurant scene like in the 1990s?\

It was much simpler and more traditional than it is today. There was great food, but not a lot of variety, experimentation or unique experiences. People were not traveling as much, so there was less exposure to different cuisines and concepts. It was a good foundation, but there was a lot of space to evolve, build on our traditions and create something new. And that’s exactly what we’ve done.  In the early days, it was about introducing ideas that people in Lisbon had not really been exposed to yet. At the time, the market was quite traditional, so even small changes felt significant.
    I started by bringing in ingredients and techniques that were already well known internationally, like foie gras and dry-aged meats not common in Portugal then, and people did not always understand why they should pay more for something unfamiliar. It took some education and time for that to be accepted. Additionally, I focused on new concepts and experiences: I opened one of the first large-scale Japanese restaurants in Portugal and helped bring Japanese cuisine to the market in a more serious way. There were very few sushi restaurants locally and omakase didn’t exist in the city, so it was about introducing something new while making it accessible.
    I was also interested in changing the overall experience––concepts that combined dining with nightlife, rooftop restaurants with a full food offering, or hotel restaurants that could stand on their own and attract a local audience, not just tourists, were not typical at the time.

There was real curiosity around these ideas. People were excited to have more global food and experiences available in Lisbon, even if there were initial questions around unfamiliar dishes and pricing. It still took time for habits to evolve and for people to fully embrace something different.

But over time, as people traveled more and became more open to new experiences, those concepts started to resonate. That evolution helped shape not only my restaurants, but also the broader restaurant scene in Lisbon.

 

One of your signatures is the picanha. How did that develop?

 

It came from the idea of taking something familiar and elevating it. Picanha is a cut of beef from the top of the rump, very popular in Brazil and Portugal, known for its rich flavor and the layer of fat that keeps it tender when grilled. It was already very well loved, but I wanted to make it more refined and a bit unexpected. By working with higher quality beef and adding elements like truffles, we created something that still feels approachable but also special. That balance is always important to me. Currently, picanha is available at three of our restaurants, including XXL, KOB, SEEN. We will continue to add picanha to our menus where it aligns with the concepts. 

 

Joel, how much do your Lisbon restaurants depend upon American tourists? Has there been an increase?

 

American visitors are an important part of the mix, especially in central locations and destination restaurants. There has definitely been an increase over the past few years as Lisbon has grown internationally both with American expats and an increase in visitors seasonally. That said, the business is still built to work year round with a strong local base. Our goal is to always appeal to both audiences and with our robust offerings we have been very successful fortunately. For us, the same principle applies outside of Portugal. In every market, we build for a strong local base first and see tourism as additive, not foundational. That local loyalty is what gives each restaurant consistency and staying power, regardless of where guests are coming from.

 

Olivier, When did you decide to expand internationally and what did you bring to markets like Rome, Paris, Bangkok and London?

 

It was a natural next step, once the concepts were working well in Portugal. I did not want to just replicate restaurants in other cities. The idea was always to bring the spirit of what we do, the energy, the atmosphere, the way we combine food and experience, and then adapt it to each market. Every city is different, so you have to respect that. In cities like Rome, Paris and London, the goal was not to reinvent what already exists but to bring a different energy that combined our strong culinary foundations with atmosphere, design and a more experiential approach to dining. These are very established, classic restaurant cities, so it’s about adding a new layer rather than competing with tradition. At the same time, there’s been a growing international interest in Portuguese gastronomy, which creates an opportunity to introduce those influences in a way that feels modern and relevant.

Bangkok was a different opportunity and marked our expansion into Asia. We were approached by Minor Hotels to bring SEEN to Avani+ Riverside Bangkok Hotel. It was about translating our rooftop concept into that market while keeping the identity, but adapting the experience to fit the city’s pace, audience, and setting.

 

Joel, how have you obtained financing to open so many high-end restaurants so quickly?

 

It has been a mix of reinvesting in the business and working with trusted partners. Over time, as the concepts proved successful, it became easier to attract the right people to invest alongside us. The focus has always been on building something sustainable, not just opening for the sake of growth. In most cases, it’s a mix of bank financing alongside private investors, strategic partners, and hospitality groups, particularly hotels where restaurants are a key part of the overall guest experience. 

Olivier, you have introduced a good deal of Japanese cuisine in your restaurants. Why?

 

Travel has always inspired me. When I experienced Japanese cuisine abroad, I was drawn to the precision, the respect for ingredients, and the presentation. At the same time, Lisbon did not have many options like that, despite having some of the freshest and best fish in the world. I wanted to bring something fresh, but adapt it to the local market so it felt natural and enjoyable for people here, not forced. We opened Yakuza by Olivier in Lisbon in 2011 which has pioneered Lisbon’s love affair with East-meets-West dining, and it’s been  a real crowd pleaser for both tourists and locals.

 

Joel, how much do your Lisbon restaurants depend upon American tourists? Has there been an increase?

American visitors are an important part of the mix, especially in central locations and destination restaurants. There has definitely been an increase over the past few years as Lisbon has grown internationally both with American expats and an increase in visitors seasonally. That said, the business is still built to work year round with a strong local base. Our goal is to always appeal to both audiences and with our robust offerings we have been very successful fortunately. 

 

SEEN (below) is a kind of big, loud nightclub restaurant. What about SEEN makes it a successful concept outside of Portugal?
 

SEEN is about more than food. It is about the overall vibe, energy, music, design, and the feeling of going out. People want to have fun, they want a place that feels alive. That translates well in different cities because the idea of going somewhere that combines dining and nightlife is universal. The key is getting the balance right so it still feels elevated with outstanding food, cocktails, and of course an outstanding view. 

 

Joel, how are the crises in Europe and the economy affecting Costa’s plans? Have you suspended work on any current projects?

Of course, the broader economic situation is always something we watch closely. It makes you more disciplined and careful with timing and investment. That said, the group continues to move forward, but with a focus on strong concepts and the right locations rather than expanding too quickly. We have a number of new concepts coming to Portugal and beyond in destinations such as Brazil later this year - watch this space!
 

Olivier, is there a point at which you think you should pull back and focus more on your existing restaurants?

 

You always have to find that balance. Growth is important, but consistency is what builds long term success. For me, it is not about the number of restaurants, it is about making sure each one delivers an unexpected experience while making people happy.

 

 NB: I shall be reviewing some of Costa Groups restaurants in Lisbon
 in upcoming issue of the Virtual Gourmet.

 

 © John Mariani, 2024