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MAY 10, 2026                                                                                                NEWSLETTER

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HOW THE FIRST RESTAURANTS CAME TO BE
By John Mariani


NEW YORK CORNER
SUSHI AKIRA

By John Mariani


THE BISON
CHAPTER  TWENTY-ONE
By John Mariani

NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
NEW ROSÉ WINES, PART TWO

By John Mariani



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                         HOW THE FIRST RESTAURANT
                                            CAME TO BE

By John Mariani



Boulanger's  Traiteur

From the time Roman roads and Arab caravansaries made trade and travel possible in Europe and Asia, those who required sustenance along the route had to rely on the most basic amenities at waystops and inns.  The food was rudimentary, there was no choice, the price was fixed.     
   
In France in the mid-18th century, the cooking at such inns was somewhat better and more varied, for the cooks were guild members called “traiteurs,” trained to cater to a traveling clientele of merchants with money to spend. The concept of a public place selling full meals is of rather recent origins, for although inns and taverns of one form or another have long histories, the main business of such places was either as a dispenser of spirits or as a travelers’ waystop that sold food only incidentally.

    The word “restaurant” is French, from the verb restaurer, “to restore.” But the word restaurant in France referred specifically to a restorative kind of soup, according to the guild guidelines for cookshops called traiteurs. Therefore, when an upstart Parisian traiteur named Boulanger in 1765 served a soup of sheep’s foot in white sauce and called it a restaurant, his colleagues took him to court to refute the service of such a dish. Boulanger won, and his restaurant became fashionable. Then, in 1782, a traiteur named Beauvilliers began serving guests at separate tables, and the term restaurant came to describe such establishments.
     
        At the aristocrats’ courts, brigades of cooks prepared lavish meals at great expense, but neither king nor his courtiers ever ate at a restaurant for the simple reason there was no such thing until Parisian entrepreneur and financier Mathurin Roze de Chantoiseau—infamous for a harebrained scheme to settle the National Debt--opened up a free-standing dining room in 1766 near the Palais Royal where patrons could eat when and what they wished to from a changing menu. Roze de Chantoiseau’s “Founder’s Statement” insisted his restaurant would serve “delicate and healthful foods” that would be “served not at a table d’hôtel, but at any hour of the day, by the dish, and at a fixed price.”
      
        
In fact, the early offerings at Roze de Chantoiseau’s restaurant were largely restorative bouillons, but the idea of the place caught on quickly, so that within a few month’s of its opening, Denis Diderot wrote that “everybody eats alone there, each in his own little cabinet.  It is truly marvelous, and it seems to me that everybody sings its praises.”

    Other restaurants followed and drew people to them at all hours, especially since traiteurs, by law, had to close by ten or eleven PM.  What Mathurin Roze de Chantoiseau set in motion became a fixture of Parisian life and the model for eating establishments throughout Europe and America.

     After the French Revolution and the persecution of the aristocracy, including an great number of beheadings, including King Louis XVI, their chefs were out of work but presumably happy they did not have to prepare feast for 500 people at a time.  Instead they opened restaurants in Paris that, after the Reign of Terror, became popular with the emerging bourgeoisie.  In his Physiology of Taste (1825), Brillat-Savarin claimed, "any man who can spend fifteen or twenty francs , and who sits down in a first class restaurant , is sure to be treated at least as well as if he sat at a princess table." By then cookbooks for the professional cook were being published, with recipes from esteemed masters like Marie Antoine Carême.

        The traiteurs found they could turn their simple eateries into "bistros"––a term purported to be coined by hungry Russian troops entering Paris after Napoleon's exile in 1814, shouting "Bistra, bistra!" (quick, quick!), but this is myth. The term doesn't even appear in French print until 1880 when it referred to an innkeeper.
        The term restaurant in American English first occurs in 1820, in James Fenimore Cooper's novel The Prairie as "the most  renowned of Parisian restaurant," and the first true restaurant in the U.S. was Delmonico's, which opened in New York in 1831.




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NEW YORK CORNER





SUSHI AKIRA
317 East 75th Street
917-921-3239

By John Mariani



Nikki Zheng

 

       How does one prepare for an 18-course omakase dinner?

Skipping lunch is a good first step, which not only leaves the belly free to enjoy such a lavish amount of food but also makes you mindful that omakase is not just another  restaurant meal. You prepare yourself, if not in a zen-like trance, then in a mental attitude that this is a special evening, one in which a sushi chef will stand in front of you and create your meal with a deft use of knives and fingers.

      This, I have found, can be a bit off-putting, even intimidating, depending on the demeanor of the chef, as well as his proficiency in English.  So I was delighted to dine at Sushi Akira, because the chef and owner, Nikki Zheng, is not just an accomplished and creative itamae but also a charming, very affable host.

       Akira” means  “sun shining” or “a new beginning,” and indeed the room itself is well lighted in  order to show the beauty of the food and lend an amiable atmosphere. So, too, Zheng’s own sunny disposition and co-chef Jeff’s, sets the mood in which you can have a rapport and find out what magic goes into each morsel of the 18-course meal.

       She began in the most humbling way, as a part-time dishwasher at a French restaurant, Quintessence in  Tokyo.  Before opening her own 12-seat restaurant Zheng worked at top New York sushi places including Sushi Nakazawa, Masa, Bar Masa, Sushi of Gari, and Tsukimi, and that almost every ingredient used at Akira comes in from Japan. Seasonality guides all her decisions as to what to prepare. And it needs mentioning that the price of $220 is almost half of what other restaurants of this quality charge.

       There is a good choice of sakes at Akira, along with a selection of beers and wine, and JOYCE is the one to consult on the degrees of floweriness, dryness, sweetness and other characteristics of the sakes.

       It would be tedious if I tried to describe every one of the courses I enjoyed, but one that has become something of a signature is a departure from seafood––Hudson Valley foie gras Monaka, a red wine-infused foie gras set within  a rice waffle and jelly that comes first in the succession. From there follow lightly cooked or warm dishes: Dry, aged sea bream  kasugodai with cucumber sauce with a cucumber jelly sauce; Hokkaido amaebii sweet shrimp; shimaaji striped Jack simply topped with chives; Miyazaki wagyu beef sandwiched in a kind of waffle cone bread with onion sauce; owan  fish dumpling  in a clam broth; slowly cooked with abalone liver sauce, seaweed and shiso flower; kegani uni and Hokkaido hairy crab. Then came the nigiri sushi: Isaki   grunt fish with a tart sudachi citrus fruit; Sayori silver  halfbeak with ginger; Chutoro zuke was a medium-fatty  tuna, followed by a marvelous  Hagashitoro fatty tuna with salt flakes; creamy minced negitoro  tuna with caviar; Uni sea urchins; Anago  sea eel salt-grilled shioyaki style. Last, two desserts: Hojicha roasted green tea pudding; Shizuoka musk melon.

       Important to all omakase meals is the progression of clean flavors, seasonings, heavier items and intense flavors, all of which is part of Zheng’s design.

       Balance is what makes such a meal easy to ingest and digest, and I left the counter feeling sated but not full. That in itself takes talent and precision, which you can see as Zheng works–she has at least half a dozen knives for various ingredients––and to be able to enjoy her personality and enthusiasm is every bit as wonderful as the food.

 






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THE BISON
By John Mariani



                       Donald Trump, Melania Knauss, Jeffrey Epstein and Ghislaine Maxwell



“Looks like Epstein and Maxwell are back in town,” Dobell told Katie. “Page Six says they held a party at his mansion last night with all the usual gang of pols, lawyers, actors and so on. Woody Allen was there.”
       “With his wife Soon-Yi?”
       “Doesn’t say.”
       “Maybe it’s time to make another call to Ghislaine.”
       “You think she’ll talk to you?”
       “Well, I’m going to tell her about all I’ve found out since the New York Magazine sale. See if she or Jeffrey has any comment. David thinks she’s actually dying to talk about it. He thinks she has guilt feelings and wants her side of the story known.”
       “That I doubt.”
       “No comment is always a comment,” said Katie. “Worth a try.”
       Katie called the number she had for Maxwell and got a recording. Katie left a message that she was looking into the police investigation about Epstein going on in Palm Beach, saying, “I hope I can get your side of the story.”
       At three o’clock Maxwell called her back.
       Without any hello, she said, “You know very well Jeffrey can’t talk about an ongoing investigation. His lawyers would never allow it.”
       “And what about you?” asked Katie, seeking to find out if Maxwell herself was under the same investigation.
       There was a long pause, then Maxwell said, “Can we speak off the record?”
       “I doubt that’s going to work, but we can try.”
       “Right. How about coming over to my townhouse tonight around seven-thirty? You have the address?”
       Katie did and closed off the conversation, saying she’d be there right on time.
       Epstein had, supposedly, bought Maxwell’s five-story 1910 Beaux Arts townhouse on East 65th Street apartment for five million dollars in 2002 and it was worth a great deal more now.
       Katie rang the doorbell and heard Maxwell say through the intercom, “Coming down right now.” Thirty seconds later she opened the iron grill entrance doors flanked by Ionic columns and led her into a huge foyer with a curved staircase to one side and an elevator to the other, with a red carpet in the middle and on one wall what Katie thought was a Pre-Raphaelite painting of musicians.
       “Come into the drawing room,” said Maxwell, who was dressed in black jeans and a red cashmere turtleneck. “There’s no one here but the two of us.”
       They sat on opposite couches, near an ornate marble  fireplace, and Katie took out her recorder and placed it on the glass coffee table.
       “I thought we agreed to be off the record,” said Maxwell.
       “And I said we’d give it a try. Let’s see how it goes on the record.”
       Maxwell nodded and waved her hand.
       Katie began. “Last time we spoke I kept my promise to only ask Jeffrey about his bidding on New York, which he failed to  get. That story was tanked by my editor because there wasn’t much beyond the sale to carry it. But since then I’ve been looking into why the Palm Beach police are investigating Jeffrey for sex trafficking. Is that something you can tell me about now?”
       Maxwell did not hesitate. “It’s all rubbish.”
       Katie said nothing and waited, then said, “So you never saw any of that sort of thing going on at Jeffrey’s various homes? You were in no way involved in any such activities? And I ask you that question on the record.”
       Maxwell made a fist and hit the table. “Never. You hear all this stuff about massages, and yes, Jeffrey loved to get a massage. Sometimes three a day, so he had professional masseuses come in on a regular schedule.”
       “Always young women?”
       “Not always young. Some had years of experience.”
       “And did you arrange that schedule?”
       “Some of the time, yeah.”
      “You used agencies I could look up in Palm Beach or Manhattan that offer massage therapy?”
       Maxwell replied, “Okay, this is totally on the record. I’m sure you did some research on my background. This beautiful townhouse you’re sitting in—where I grew up it would fit into one wing. My family lived in a 52-room mansion on fourteen acres of beautiful countryside outside of Oxford (right). My father was a member of the British Parliament, owned many newspapers, including the New York Daily News at one time, and he named his yacht after me. Do I sound like someone who would become a social secretary for Jeffrey or anyone else?”
       Katie flipped over pages of her notebook. “As I understand it, after your father died you had a trust fund that paid you a hundred thousand dollars a year, which, obviously, doesn’t go very far in New York. Certainly not enough to buy this little townhouse.”
       “I think it’s well known that Jeffrey helped me out with securing a loan while I made my way in the New York real estate industry.”
       “And you’ve lived here for, what, about two years?”
       Maxwell nodded. “My point is, Katie, Jeffrey came from nothing and achieved a great deal in his life. I admire him and we’ve had some very good times together. He’s extremely generous to his friends”
       “And did you have a romantic relationship with him?”
       “I have no comment on that.”
       “But it’s safe to say you spend a great deal of time with him, here and at his other properties? I can’t seem to find real estate sales you’ve made in the records over the past five years.”
       “Let’s just say my life has taken a turn for the better. I loved my father very much, and his death affected me very deeply.”
       “And I understand you have suggested that it was  not a suicide but a murder?”
       Maxwell stood up and walked to the fireplace to stoke the flames.
       “I do indeed. But that’s not what you’re here to ask me, is it?”
       “No,” said Katie, “I just want to get all the details straight.”
       “On the record I have every reason to believe he was murdered. The press said he was in dire debt and could not face it. Rubbish! My father was afraid of nothing and no man. He had pulled himself out of financial ruin more times than any of his colleagues, and, unlike Donald Trump, he did it by using his tremendous business acumen.”
       “Do you want to tell me who you think murdered your father?”
       “No, I do not. Can we get back to your questions about Jeffrey?”
       Katie sensed that Maxwell was trying to distance herself from Epstein, perhaps trying to get her side of the story out and fend off the police.
       Katie turned more pages of her notebook.
       “Do you know who Virginia Giuffre is?”
       Maxwell placed the fireplace poker back in its stand and said, “Virginia
is an absolute liar and everything she has said is a lie. Therefore, based on those lies I cannot speculate on what anybody else did or didn’t do.  Everything she said is false. Everything.”
       “So she was not one of Jeffrey’s masseuses?”
       “She might have been. There were a lot of them at the various properties. They’d travel with him, so I might have met one called Virginia. But I never heard of this Giuffre girl.”
       “Well, that’s her married name now. Her maiden name was Peters.”
       “I only know she used the name Giuffre when she attacked Jeffrey’s reputation and went to the police.”
       “And did you ever see Giuffre with Prince Andrew?”
       “Andrew is a very good friend of Jeffrey’s and they travel together often. They might have  had a masseuse on the plane.”
       “Giuffre?”
       “I don’t know, maybe once or twice.”
      “She also said it was you who introduced Prince Andrew to her.”
       Maxwell paused to gather her thoughts, thinking hard and quickly, then saying, “All I remember is that this Giuffre, or Peters, whatever her name was, met Andrew at one of Jeffrey’s parties. I don’t recall,  but maybe he asked me something like, who is that girl? And I might have introduced them.”
       “And you never trained Giuffre as a masseuse or sent her to Thailand to be professionally trained?”
       “Perhaps Jeffrey did. I don’t have any such connections in Thailand.”
       Katie now strongly suspected Maxwell was trying to put space between herself and Epstein and was probably well aware of everything Giuffre had told the police.
       “So, I just want to make sure,” said Katie. “Back in 1993—that’s two years after you moved to New York—someone placed an ad in a magazine called Yoga Journal offering a ‛full time position for an Iyengar Yoga Instructor  to teach a private individual.’ And that the ‛job includes fantastic perks such as extensive travel,’ then said interested parties should call  ‛Miss Maxwell’ at a phone number that was Epstein’s office number at the time. Was that you?”   
      
Maxwell looked surprised by the questions and stammered, “When was this? Nineteen ninety-three? That was twelve years ago. I don’t remember but it’s possible that Jeffrey did ask me to place such an ad for experienced and well-trained masseuses. There was nothing sexual about it.”
       “And did some masseuses take you up on the offer?”
      “I just can’t remember that far back. There might have been some and if so, they were paid well and did enjoy the perks of traveling with Jeffrey. I hired a lot of various people to work at Jeffrey’s houses. They need a lot of upkeep. But only a  very small part of my job from time to time  was to find adult professional massage therapists for him, and as far as I knew, everyone who came to his house was an adult professional therapist. Jeffrey has serious back problems.”
    Katie felt that if Maxwell had any knowledge of Epstein’s financial dealings she would play dumb, so it was not worth taking up time in the interview.
    “Okay,” she said, “can you just confirm that the following men have, for whatever reason, attended Epstein’s parties?”
        “Go ahead.”
        Katie reeled off the names and Maxwell either said yes or she couldn’t recall. Then, to Katie’s surprise, she gave her other names of other prominent men. Katie realized Maxwell was trying to gather as many of such men into Epstein’s world so that, if they came under scrutiny, they’d be willing to help Epstein in any way they could. Make some calls, write some letters. Maxwell knew very well that Katie was going to be in contact with every name on the now long list. All of it on the record.
        “Last question,” said Katie. “Do you believe that Jeffrey will be indicted, either for sex trafficking or financial misconduct?”
        "I don’t see them getting anywhere with his financials. I imagine you know that men like Jeffrey keep their assets well out of reach. As for the sex trafficking, I find it impossible to believe that anyone’s going to take the word of some girl or a bunch of whores trying to extort Jeffrey.”
            Katie said, “Why do you call them whores?”
        Maxwell stuttered, “Well, I, I, mean that as a figure of speech. Some of them may well have been prostitutes or been offered money by these men to, to, go beyond massage.”
        “Do the names Ramona Sanchez and Vargas mean anything to you?”
        `Maxwell just shook her head, then  said, “Katie, it’s getting late. I’ve been very open with you, and I hope you take my side of the story seriously. You’re not going to get Jeffrey to speak with you. And, I should tell you that he knows about your working on this story and is very distressed.”
        “Meaning what?”
        “Meaning he can be vindictive.”   
        “Meaning what?”
        “That’s  all I’ll say. Let me show you out.”

 

 

 

 


 © John Mariani, 2024









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NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR




NEW ROSÉ WINES,
Part Two

By John Mariani




    Anyone who contends rosés are not among his favorite wines may well not have tasted the wide range of varietals and styles now in the market. Here is Part Two of what I've been enjoying.

Domaine Serene Multi-Vintage ‘r’ Rosé v. XV  ($44). The “XV” indicates the number of years Domaine Serene has been making rosé in Oregon, in a dry style with a pleasing 13.5% alcohol. It has a brilliant rose color and makes a fine apéritif or be perfect with a cold chicken salad.

 

McCullum Heritage 91  Willamette 2022 ($33).  Age counts in rosés, if not as much in red wines, the extra time can bring out nuances, as in this 2023 rose made from 100% Pinot Noir in the Chehalem Mountains, as a combination of both pressed and saignéed juices,  fermented  for 30 days entirely in stainless at cool temperatures, then, the majority of the wine (76%) was aged in stainless steel tanks and  (24%) in neutral oak barrels for two months. It goes very well with pork.


Willamette Valley Vineyards Estate Rosé 2024
. Among the first distinguished Willamette Valley wineries, founded in 1983, Owner Jim Bernau knew how well Pinot Noir would grow there. So he can make informed decisions about how well the varietal will translate into a rose. He makes three: A very pink Orange Blossom Sparkling Rosé ($26); a delicious 2021 Brut Rosé; and a still Estate of Pinot Noir ($35). Each has its own flavor profile you should try.   



La Marca Prosecco DOC Rosé 2024
  ($17),  Described as a “playfully pink Italian prosecco,” this is an unusual departure for the best-known Italian sparklers, made from the traditional Glera (89%) with Pinot Noir (11%) with a light 11% alcohol. Made on the prime terroir along the Piave River, the moderate climate keeps it fresh and fruited with a good tang of acid. Very good with Italian seafood, from branzino to cuttlefish.


Gerard Bertrand Côtes des Rosés 2024 ($18). This lovely, well priced wine from the Languedoc is a traditional blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault with 13% alcohol, so it is of medium body with a longer finish on the palate than most roses. It is also quintessentially French, dry with only a hint of pleasing sweetness. Its bottle is shaped like a rose. Drink it with foods of the region like brandade de morue or tielle sétoise with octopus and tomato.

 


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"Cocktails aren’t just drinks but `timeless masterpieces,' pictured on the menu sitting in cooling fountains, simmering in volcanoes. Everything is rich, exotic, voluptuous and paradisaical, and arranged not in courses but, as in life, in 'chapters.' 'Be transported to the mystical Grecian isles,' it coos, 'through a Greek-Mediterranean dining experience like no other.'"—"Fenix: A Review" by Camilla Long, The Times (5/3/26)







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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             








              

MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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