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MARIANI’S Virtual
Gourmet January 18, 2026
NEWSLETTER Founded in 1996 ARCHIVE ![]()
❖❖❖
THIS WEEK
WHEN COLUMBUS SAILED WESTWARD HE CHANGED THE WORLD'S GASTRONOMY By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER UTSAV By John Mariani THE BISON CHAPTER THREE By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR CHAMPAGNE AND SPARKLERS AT GOOD PRICES By John Mariani
WHEN COLUMBUS SAILED
WESTWARD HE CHANGED THE WORLD’S GASTRONOMY By John Mariani ![]() It is easy enough to prove how
Christopher Columbus’s discovery of the New
World completely altered the world’s food
and gastronomy, but it is also wholly
reasonable to claim that his setting foot on
the island the natives called Guanahani was
the single most transformative event in
human history.
As a reward, his Spanish
benefactors, Ferdinand and Queen Isabella,
said Columbus would be entitled to ten percent
of all the revenues from the new lands in
perpetuity and the option to buy a one-eighth
interest in any commercial venture and receive
one-eighth of the profits.
Driven by easterly winds for
two-and-a-half months, Columbus spotted a
light at two o’clock in the morning of October
12, and upon landing found a tropical Eden, a
place “extremely verdant and fertile, with the
air agreeable, and probably containing many
things of which I am ignorant, not inclining
to stay here, but to visit other islands in
search of gold.”
In every sense, Columbus failed to find
what he’d been sent to find, but within a
decade that fertility he found was of far more
importance. “The Columbian Exchange,” a term
coined in 1972 by historian Alfred W. Crosby,
was a radical, headlong transformation of the
world’s food, land use, wealth and
geopolitics.
America gave scores of new foods to the
rest of the world—corn, tomatoes, potatoes,
chile peppers, agave, turkey, cocoa,
pineapple, squash, vanilla, wild rice, and
more. In exchange, Europeans brought to
America cattle, chickens, honey bees, bananas,
rice, barley, garlic, oats, rye, and
sugarcane.
He made four voyages and brought back many
foods, while those who followed brought
more, especially the Spanish in
Central and South America. On such an exchange
were built colonies and empires, economies and
fortunes, with slavery and war the byproducts.
By the same token, what
would American food be like without wheat
for bread or cattle for beef. No southern
fried chicken. No honey or sugar.
Columbus, who never got
rich from his exploits, died in 1506,
believing himself a failure. Yet,
as the philosopher Santayana wrote, “He gave
the world another world.” ❖❖❖
NEW YORK CORNER UTSAV
1185 Avenue of the Americas 212-575-2525 By John
Mariani
Of the 17,600 restaurants in New
York only a handful have stayed in business,
through thick and thin, boom and bust,
pandemics and recessions, for a quarter of a
century. One that has, still under the same
family ownership and at the same location near
Rockefeller Center, is Utsav (“festival”),
opened by Emiko Kothari and now run by her
granddaughter Nandito Khanna.
For
one thing, Khanna canceled the long-running
buffet that had become dated. For another she
has added Chinese and a whole menu of the
specialties of Bengali, whence she comes. In
Kolkata the influence of Cantonese immigrants in
the 18th century had a notable effect
on the food culture so that Utsav’s menu now
reflects that influence. The setting
has a pleasant bar-lounge downstairs, while the
main dining room , with its wall of glass, is up a
flight, near Rockefeller Center, and the I let Khanna guide our choice
of food, mixing a couple of traditional
appetizers, then Chinese specialties, then main
courses from the Bengali side of the menu. It
was feast of color and aroma before even tasting
the food. We
began with tandoori-roasted
broccoli
florets that had been marinated in yogurt and
cheese with green chili paste, white pepper
powder, black salt and dried fenugreek. Butter
Chicken
(right) is now on every Indian menu, but
at Utsav it is stuffed into kulcha buns
while another version contained cream cheese.
The Bengali dishes started off with daab
chingri, a prawn curry cooked and served
inside a green coconut (left). Kosha
mangsho was a goat stew, slowly cooked in
a spiced gravy with mustard oil, which is a
beloved condiment in the region. But
that night the goat’s meat was a bit chewy.
Pungent mustard oil called kasundi was
the spark for a salad of cucumber,
tomato, and onion. Creamy
indeed
was chicken bharta in a
cashew-based sauce with the strong perfume of
garam masala, very popular in Kolkata.
Barramundi was marinated in mustard, turmeric,
green chilies, and mustard oil, then steamed and
served in a banana leaf, which seemed to break
down the fish’s flesh and made it mushy. Cholar
dal was
a quintessential Bengali dish of sweet and
savory flavors made from yellow split peas
simmered with whole red chilies,
coconut and aromatics. A
soothing dish at this point was khichuri,
a lentil, and rice porridge fragrant with garlic,
Bengali ghee, coconut and vegetables.
India’s
breads
are always a high point of a meal, puffy,
seared, stuffed, or, like the luchi,
fried and airy––good for scoping up the gravies. Garlic
naan and rosemary naan were suffused with the
garlic and rosemary.
Rice is also critical to a proper Bengali
dinner, and at Utsav it was
ghee-rich bhaat.
Not everyone cares for Indian dessert as much as
I do, and Utsav’s are all freshly made and very
good, from gulab jamun in the style of crème
brûlée, and misti doi, a traditional
very creamy
Bengali yogurt (right) lightly sweetened
with caramel.
Utsav has not stayed in business by remaining
always the same, and its menu has evolved as
Khanna brings it into its second quarter of a
century. Open
daily
for lunch and dinner. ❖❖❖ THE
BISON ![]()
Katie had a
feeling she would not be granted an
interview by either Pelts or
Wasserstein, because
investment bankers like neither
attention nor questions about their
dealings unless it was a chance for Jim
Kramer to fawn over them on his CNBC
show “Mad Money .” After reporting in to
Dobell about the Epstein interview, she
called the Miramax office in New York to
ask about Harvey Weinstein’s
availability and was told that he would
be back in the city the following day
and would respond to Katie’s request
then.
❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
Fine Sparkling Wines
Are More Affordable Than Ever By
John Mariani ![]() Champagne makers always appear as
bubbly as their
bottlings, but over the last two years they have
had to admit that all is not
well in Reims and Epernay where Champagne is
produced.
Albert Bichot
Crémant de Bourgogne Brut Rosé ($26)
is made from
80% Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Gamay grown in
Burgundy’s Cote Chalonnaise and
Auxerrois, and it is a very lively rosé sparkler
with lovely fruit flavors. This Life ($25) from
Maison Wessman is
another crémant, this J Vineyards Brut
Rosé ($50)
is made with
Pinot Noir from California’s
❖❖❖ ![]() WHICH IS BETTER THAN REDHEADED KIDS WITH RED TEETH "Drive the
Pacific Coast Highway south from Los Angeles and
you’ll pass plenty of other towns with beach in
their name: Venice, Redondo, Manhattan, Hermosa,
Huntington and so on. Some are pretty. Others
grungy. Some are perfect for raising blond kids with
blond teeth. Others offer the ideal place to park
the end-of-life RV and await the final sunset. All,
though, have a beach, singular."––Chris Haslam,
"California's Coolest Surf Town, with artists,
eccentrics and 32 beaches," London Times
(1/6/26) ❖❖❖ Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven
(21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and
for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance,
inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find
this to be a treasured favorite. The story
concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and
their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their
barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise.
But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and
the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring
his master back from the edge of despair. WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish.
Contributing
Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical
Advisor: Gerry
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