|
MARIANI’S
Virtual
Gourmet JUNE 21, 2026
NEWSLETTER Founded in 1996 ARCHIVE ![]() Catherine Deneuve
❖❖❖ DINING OUT IN LISBON, Part Two By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER LE BERNARDIN By John Mariani THE BISON CHAPTER TWENTY-SIX By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR HOW PORTUGAL'S RED WINES HAVE BECOME COMPETITIVE IN THE WORLD MARKET By John Mariani ❖❖❖
DINING OUT IN LISBON, Part Two By John Mariani ![]() ÀCosta Vasco da Gama may, thanks to sixth grade world history, be Portugal's best known figure, famous for his astounding voyage all the way around Africa and the Cape of Good Hope to India, beginning an unchallenged monopoly on that route and establishing a spice trade that brought pepper and cinnamon to Europe when it was starved for Eastern flavors that would become part of Portuguese cuisine. These and other spices and seasonings are the underpinnings of a gastronomy already rich in seafood. In the past century, however, the cuisine has remained traditional but not inherently spicy and chile peppers are a rarity. But in the present century this has changed in Portugal as young chefs and entrepreneurs adopt and adapt to a world now rich in spices from every region of the world.
superb
view of the marina next to Terriero do
Paco on the Tagus River. It is very elegant
but wholly relaxed, and, especially in the
evening, becomes a very romantic venue with
tall walls of windows, oval-shaped hanging
mirrors, well-set tables and a superb wine
list. At lunch there is an amazingly
well-priced Executive Menu at 29 euros and
special dishes each day.
There is also a kind of steam table buffet of
hearty, rustic working man’s fare, whereby you
heap meats and vegetables atop white rice.
Also on premises, the very
casual Taberna (right) is
in an open courtyard with a menu of tapas,
migas sandwiches, fish and meats cooked
on the plancha, and daily specials
like mushrooms with ham and cod fitters.
Even
more down-home, so to speak, is the delightful
and always jammed Restaurante das Flores
(Ruas das Flores 78), whose food could
not be more basic or traditional. It is a
small but not cramped room with ten small
tables for 21 guests, tile floors, paper table
coverings and a wall I sat down to a basket of
good bread and ordered an ice-cold draft beer.
Quickly came a platter of pork falling from
the bone with juicy blood sausage and
Portuguese chorizo, which is softer
than Mexican. I also had another
platter of cod with stewed Afterwards, just across the
street is one of Lisbon’s best modern coffee
houses, Fabrica (Rua das Flores 63),
which started as a small family business and
now shops their products worldwide.
❖❖❖ NEW YORK CORNER LE BERNARDIN
155 West 51st Street 212-554-1515 ![]() Photo by Daniel Krieger Every
year for the past two decades my wife and I have
celebrated our anniversary at Le Bernardin, and
every year we come away convinced that, after
forty years in business, it is a finer restaurant
than ever.
The
Le Cozes took a leap of faith in making Le
Bernardin an all-seafood restaurant, serving fish
from American waters and immediately shook the
fine dining scene to its core. Chef Gilbert
championed raw seafood, creating a carpaccio of thinly
pounded fillet of fish in a vinaigrette that was
soon to be copied everywhere. Sadly,
Gilbert passed away in 1994, but his disciple and
close friend Eric Ripert (left, with Maguy)
seized the banner and carried on, evolving but
never compromising Le Bernardin’s mission. The
restaurant itself is as stunning as ever with a
modernity that will never go out of style right
down to the unobtrusive tables for a woman to put
her handbag. The reception by manager Tom
Dzelalija and his staff is as amiable as any in
the city. The sommeliers, led by Aldo Sohm, is always
attentive to each guest’s preference and budget.
Ripert’s kitchen crew, headed by culinary director
Eric Gestel and executive chef Antony
Gray, oversee a brigade drilled in the virtues of
respect for the ingredients and accuracy of
cooking times. We
always give ourselves over to them, expecting not
only the very best of their efforts but a balance
of the old and the new. The Chef’s eight-course
Tasting Menu is $350, with a four-course prix fixe
at $220. A three-course lunch is a very reasonable
$139. Quite
frankly, describing each dish at length is hardly
necessary because the incorporation of the
ingredients themselves bespeak the degree and
inventiveness of Ripert’s sense of harmony. Our
dinner began with bite-size shima-aji striped jack sashimi on a
plate with crunchy finger lime mini-roll and a sudachi
citrus vinaigrette. Next a perfectly sauteed fat
langoustine (right)
with a butternut squash in a spiced
squash-yuzu broth. Slowly baked salmon with a
silken texture was topped with caviar, and
sauced with a horseradish emulsion. All of it was so
light that our appetite had not slackened for
desserts–-a kiwi and lavender sorbet and coconut
buttermilk granité, then Harry’s Berries
strawberries from a family-owned farm in southern
California in a vanilla Chantilly cream.
Impeccably paired with this superb meal
were a Paul Laurent, Cuvée du Fondateur, Épernay,
Brut, NV; Grüner Veltliner, Sohm & Kracher,
Alte Reben, Weinviertel, Austria, 2024; Meursault,
Domaine Vincent Latour, Clos des Magny, Burgundy,
France, 2023; Nuits-Saint-Georges, David Duband,
Burgundy, France, 2023, and Sauternes, Château
Coutet, Bordeaux, France, 2004. No
mistakes
at all? If I must quibble, the baguette rolls were
not crisp, the "caviar" is from China and one of
the white wines was served too cold. That’s about
all I can think of.
Sitting
at
the broad table each year at Le Bernardin, putting
ourselves in the hands of a team of masters, we
basked in the sure sense that, at least at Le
Bernardin, a genteel style of dining is still
possible in New York, if somewhat rare these days.
To be unique means not just very good or even
great; it means one of a kind, and in that respect
no other dining experience in the city can match
it. Le Bernardin is
open for lunch Mon.-Fri.; Dinner Mon.-Sat. ❖❖❖
THE BISON By John Mariani ![]()
Donald Trump, Melania Knauss,
Jeffrey Epstein and Ghislaine
Maxwell
CHAPTER TWENTY-SIX
Katie rushed
into Dobell’s office and told him the
news. Dumbstruck—not a response she’d seen
often in her editor—he said, “There’s an
old saying in the news business about
public figures: ‛You can get away with
anything, but just don’t wake up in bed
with a dead woman or a live boy.’ But how
do you know Susannah’s got this story
right?” She
went back to her desk and called David the
news.
With Druley’s help,
Katie looked up contacts for Angus Pierce,
finding he had an office in New York. She
dialed the number and told the woman who
answered that she was calling from McClure’s
magazine, but, walking a fine
journalistic line, did not say that she
was a reporter. She thought he might be
more likely to call her back if he thought
it might be about the magazine sale, if it
was time he revealed himself as the one
making the offer.
❖❖❖ NOTES FROM
THE WINE CELLAR
HOW PORTUGAL'S RED
WINES HAVE BECOME COMPETITIVE IN THE WORLD MARKET
By John Mariani ![]() Herdade de Peso The wine
Portuguese wines have
only recently been competing with established
European wineries. What historical/political
factors of the last half-century kept the industry
from excelling?
Sogrape understood earlier than most that
Portugal had something genuinely rare: ancient
indigenous grape varieties, terroirs that exist
nowhere else in the world and a winemaking tradition
that predates most of what we call "classic" wine
regions. The question was never whether the raw
material was exceptional — it was whether anyone
would commit to expressing it properly.
Casa Ferreirinha's Barca Velha set the standard. It
was Portugal's first great red wine by any
international measure, and it came from Ferreira,
which is part of the Sogrape family. That wine
proved something critical: that Portugal could
produce wines of genuine complexity and
age-worthiness, not just volume. Herdade do Peso is
a continuation of that same conviction, applied to
the Alentejo. The Douro region, where Port is made, has garnered most of the attention for innovation in winemaking. Yet your winery is in the Alentejo region. What are the chief differences in terroir? ![]()
The Alentejo is a completely different proposition.
We're on a vast plain in southern Portugal, with a
continental climate — hot, dry summers and cold
winters — and soils that range from granite and
schist to clay and limestone, sometimes within the
same estate. At Herdade do Peso, we have 12 distinct
soil types across 465 hectares. That complexity is
what makes the wines interesting.
What we focus on is balance. The heat in the
Alentejo can push ripeness very quickly, which is
why vineyard work — canopy management, harvest
timing, parcel-by-parcel monitoring — is so
critical. The wines that result are full-bodied but
not heavy, with a texture and warmth that is
distinctly Alentejan. You taste the land, not the
winemaker's intervention
Sogrape's involvement brought the resources and the rigor to pursue that goal seriously: investment in the vineyard parcel by parcel, in the winery infrastructure, and in the patience to make decisions for the long term rather than for the next harvest. The philosophy has always been that the wine is already in the land and the work is to understand it well enough not to get in the way. You
joined Sogrape in 2018, finding your way from
the distributor side to becoming a winemaker.
What have you endeavored to do thus far to bring the
wines quality to a high?
Since then, my focus has been on working closely
with the viticulture team to better understand each
block, soil, exposures and natural balance. We’ve
placed a strong emphasis on respectful farming
practices, biodiversity and ensuring that the vines
are healthy and resilient because the vineyard
should be the main source of quality. Since 2018
I’ve focused on working with nature instead of
against it. In the winery, we intervene as little as
necessary, making decisions that preserve freshness,
balance and a sense of place. Rather than chasing a
particular trend or style, we let each vintage
express itself honestly. Quality is about crafting
wines that are authentic and capable of showing
where they come from. And this is what I’ll keep
working towards because I feel we’re moving in the
right direction. Of
the estate’s 465 hectares, 160 are vineyards and
100 olive groves. How do you balance the
ecosystems within the terroir?
One of the ways we achieve this is through
biodiversity corridors established throughout the
property. These corridors connect different habitats
and create refuge for native flora and fauna,
encouraging a richer and more balanced ecosystem.
Beyond supporting biodiversity, they provide shade,
help reduce temperatures, improve soil health, and
contribute to natural pest control by fostering
populations of beneficial insects and wildlife.
The relationship between the vineyards and all the
surrounding ecosystems is fundamental. Healthy
natural ecosystems support pollinators, predators of
vineyard and a wide range of microorganisms that
contribute to soil vitality. In turn, well-managed
agricultural areas can coexist and even strengthen
these ecological networks when farming practices are
respectful of the environment.
Our philosophy is that great wines begin with a
healthy landscape. That is why our practices are
guided by respect for nature, careful water
management, and a commitment to maintaining
biodiversity. Rather than trying to dominate the
environment, we aim to work with it, allowing each
ecosystem to support the others. This creates a more
resilient terroir, better adapted to the challenges
of climate change and capable of expressing the true
character of Alentejo for many years to come.
Your
estate
is home to 12 different types of soil and grow 16
varietals. Are all your wines blends and which
varietals do you favor? Which soils are considered
the best?
The varieties we work with most are Alicante
Bouschet (the backbone of Alentejo red winemaking),
Touriga Nacional, Tinta Miuda, Cabernet Sauvignon
and Petit Verdot among others. Alicante
Bouschet is particularly interesting because it's
one of the few red-fleshed varieties in the world,
which gives a depth of color and a particular
structure. Among whites, Arinto is our primary
variety, it holds acidity well in the Alentejo heat,
which is not something you can take for granted
here.
On soils: there is no "best" soil at Herdade do
Peso. What exists is a range of soils, each with
different characteristics, and the quality of the
wine that comes from any one of them depends
entirely on how it's managed. The skill is in
understanding what each parcel is capable of and
working with it accordingly. In
addition
to stainless steel tanks and traditional oak
barrels you use amphoras and cement vats. Why
and
when?
You seem to be adamant about alcohol levels and your red wines prove that strength and richness can be achieved without bolstering alcohol levels. Is this a deliberate attempt to diverge from so many Spanish and Italian wines that are now at 14.5% alcohol and above?
It
starts
in the vineyard. Harvesting at the right moment,
before sugar accumulation outpaces phenolic
ripeness, is critical. In the Alentejo, that window
can be narrow. We monitor each parcel individually
so we're not making blanket decisions based on
averages. Canopy management throughout the growing
season also plays a role — shade reduces temperature
at the berry level and slows sugar development.
In the cellar, we avoid practices that concentrate
alcohol further. The result is wines that sit
typically between 13.5% and 14% — which, for this
climate, represents genuine restraint without
compromise on richness or structure.
Alcohol should be a consequence of the vintage and
the variety, not a target. When it becomes the
loudest voice in a wine, something has gone wrong in
the process. You
price
your wines at a level of some of the best of your
competitors in Rioja. Is it difficult to convince
the consumer that a Portuguese wine like Parcelas
should sell for should sell for $65 in the U.S.?
Currently,
our
top markets are Portugal, USA, Switzerland and
Angola. Consumption
of
wine has been steadily dropping, especially among
the young people, and health warnings have turned
off many older people. How do you think these
trends can be met by a small estate like
yours?
❖❖❖ DEPT. OF WRETCHED EXCESS
|
![]() |
The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35) Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller. "This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe. "Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit. |
"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. "Italian
restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far
outnumber their French rivals. Many of
these establishments are zestfully described
in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an
entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by
food-and-wine correspondent John F.
Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street
Journal.
"Equal parts
history, sociology, gastronomy, and just
plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the
World tells the captivating and delicious
story of the (let's face it) everybody's
favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and
more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews,
editorial director of The Daily
Meal.com. "A fantastic and fascinating
read, covering everything from the influence
of Venice's spice trade to the impact of
Italian immigrants in America and the
evolution of alta cucina. This book will
serve as a terrific resource to anyone
interested in the real story of Italian
food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's
Ciao
Italia. "John Mariani has written the
definitive history of how Italians won their
way into our hearts, minds, and
stomachs. It's a story of pleasure over
pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer,
owner of NYC restaurants Union Square
Cafe, The Modern, and Maialino.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish.
Contributing
Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical
Advisor: Gerry
McLoughlin.
If you wish to subscribe to this
newsletter, please click here: http://www.johnmariani.com/subscribe/index.html
© copyright John Mariani 2026