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MARIANI’S Virtual Gourmet AUGUST 9, 2026
NEWSLETTER Founded in 1996 ARCHIVE ![]() Sihung Lung and Chien Lien Wu in "Eat Drink Man Woman" (1994)
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DINING OUT IN BUENOS AIRES By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER TAVOLA HELL'S KITCHEN By John Mariani THE BISON CHAPTER THIRTY-FOUR By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR AUGUST GRAB BAG By John Mariani ❖❖❖
DINING OUT IN BUENOS AIRES By John Mariani ![]()
Depending on
the season, Buenos Aires can be an inexpensive
city to visit, owing to its boom or bust
economy, and at the moment, despite the
country's current boom, with inflation tamed,
exports up and GDP solid,the US dollar is very
strong, with 1,489 pesos to the dollar. In
Buenos Aires merchants gladly accept dollars at
the established rate (Western Union is the best
place for exchange; ATMs are not), but I've also
found that you might get a discount on the price
of an item if you offer dollars.
The restaurants, therefore, are bargains by comparison to the States or Europe, and while Argentinians eat beef the way Americans eat burgers, there are certainly alternatives to steakhouses. There are also very upscale restaurants, like Aramnuru, serving 18-course meals, if that is your wont. Steakhouses in Buenos Aires are called parillas, and a parillada para dos is a sumptuous meal that brings an array of cuts and meats to the table, including chinchulines (intestines), mollejas (sweetbreads) and rinones (kidneys) along with the usual cuts of filets, ribeyes and sirloins. The parillas that are the most fun are big and always busy; many don't take reservations. ![]() LA CABRERA (José A. Cabrera 5127) in the Palermo neighborhood is always a good bet for the best beef available. It was opened a quarter century ago by Gaston Rivera, and it still stays open seven days a week. The grill is open to the smart-looking dining room, and it is known for its 40% discount during happy hour. The skirt steak is one of the most popular items ($35), and a three-course meal with a beverage will run about $50. ELENA (The Four
Seasons Buenos Aires, Posadas 1086/88). As
CABAÑA LAS
LILAS (516 Ave. Davila). Among the throng of restaurantes
that line the Puerto Maduro waterfront, none is
more famous or popular than Cabaña Las Lillas, a
big, wide-open parrilla
serving up huge cuts of grilled beef, sausages,
sweetbreads, and lamb cutlets.You must try the typical grilled provolone
cheese in generous portions.
CUCINA PARADISO
(Castañeda 1873).
Italians are by far the largest immigrant
population in ❖❖❖
NEW YORK
CORNER
TAVOLA HELL'S
KITCHEN
488 Ninth Avenue 212-273-1181 By John Mariani
![]() Nick Accardi
I’ve
been to enough restaurants in my lifetime to
be able to read a room. Some of my snooty
colleagues––especially the London restaurant
critics––love nothing better than to classify
the clientele by their clothes, looks or
demeanor, using condescending, shopworn
clichés like “tailored Italian suits” and
“social X-rays,” but I prefer to sense the
ambience of a room by what I hear. And what I
hear at Tavola Hell's Kitchen, way over on the
West Side of Manhattan, is the sound of The room itself helps,
for it is a very old one that was for more than
a century an Italian grocery and eatery, with a
tin ceiling, tile floors and stainless steel
doors. (I remember when truck drivers would come
here to eat before entering the Lincoln Tunnel
Accardi’s daily gnocchi (left)
are light but full of the flavor of potato,
served with various sauces. I do wonder why he
would use Manila clams in spaghetti alle
vongole, because vongole are smaller sweeter and
more tender than the big, chewy Manila variety.
When I see lasagne
on a menu I order it, because it can easily be
rendered as a gooey mess. Accardi’s is more
carefully prepared so that the fresh pasta is
balanced with layers of wild boar and veal ragù,
Buffalo mozzarella, parmigiano, and tomato
sauce, so that every ingredient is
complementary. As in all good Italian
restaurants, main courses are more simply
conceived than what precedes the, like grilled
chicken with field greens, chicken alla
parmigiana (very good, with provolone
rather than mozzarella cheese) and strip steak
in a Tuscan wine reduction.
For dessert the special
item at Tavola is the cannoli, made with
imported biscuit shells filled with ricotta
mixed with chocolate chips and topped with a
pistachio and caramelized orange peel. Or you
could go for the Nutella-topped pizza and a
good, strong espresso. By the time you push back
from the table to admire the old-fashioned
décor, the “GROSSERIA” sign, the shelves with
cans and jars of ingredients and the fiaschi
bottle of Chianti, the families will be leaving
and things quiet down. Nick Accardi has spent the
evening in and out of the kitchen, hugging
incoming regulars, schmoozing Oh, by the way, Hell’s
Kitchen, which more uppity people call Clinton,
stretches from West 34th Street up to
59th (where Lincoln Center
replaced it). It was where West Side Story took
place. Yet after centuries have gone by, no one
remembers why it’s called Hell’s Kitchen, but it
still has a wonderfully raffish ring. ❖❖❖
THE BISON By John Mariani ![]()
Donald Trump, Melania Knauss,
Jeffrey Epstein and Ghislaine
Maxwell
CHAPTER THIRTY-FOUR
“Should
we rent a car to go up to Pierce’s place?”
asked Katie.
“So we can make a quick getaway?”
“The thought had occurred to me.”
“Better than having a taxi with its
motor running outside or a horse-drawn
carriage.”
The next morning Katie asked Greta to
rent a small car and asked if the snow and ice
conditions were.
“All the cars here are well adapted to
the conditions,” she said. “The conditions
change all the time, even during the day. Ice
patches, the occasional avalanche. Just go
slow and you’ll be fine. I assume you do not
need automatic transmission. Those kinds of
cars are rare around here, unless someone
arrives here in a Rolls Royce.”
“How about the Maseratis and Ferraris?”
asked David.
Greta laughed and said, “Oh, they do
very well. They are very wide and close to the
ground and have magnificent ability to hold
the road. My husband has an old Ferrari and we
drive everywhere in it.”
“Well,” said Katie, “I think we’d
better stick to something like a Volvo or
SAAB.”
“You’d be surprised,” said Greta. “The
little Fiat Cinquecentos do well in the snow
and ice because they have the engine in the
rear.”
Katie said that in fact she drove a
Fiat back in the States, and said, “That’s
fine with me.”
Greta said the rental agency would
bring the car to the hotel with the forms to
fill out. By the time Katie and David had
finished breakfast the car was outside.
“Do you think I need insurance?” Katie
asked the agent?
“We think it’s a good idea because of
the weather conditions,” he replied.
Katie said she thought he credit card
company gave her coverage, but wasn’t sure if
it applied in a foreign country, so she agreed
to the personal and collision damage coverage
for two days.
“This way if we drive off a cliff,
we’re covered,” she said to David.
“If we drive off a cliff, we probably
won’t need coverage.”
*
* *
“It’s very easy, “ she said, “straight
up Route 27, about twenty minutes, and when
you get to the town of Engaden (left),
turn off onto Ils Muots, then Prazett, and the
Pierce’s chalet will be off the road on the
right with a big entry road leading into the
woods. Katie called
the number Richard Pierce had given her and
said she and David would be leaving their
hotel and should be up to the chalet within a
half hour. It was a very pleasant drive, with
the mountains still heavy with snow and green
pines at their lower level. At four o’clock it
was barely twilight but the roads, with
typical Swiss efficiency, were clearly marked,
and they saw a sign with a leaping gazelle on
it: the springbok, South Africa’s national
animal, which was lettered on the sign.
The drive up to the chalet, which
seemed far too enormous to be considered one,
was at least a mile long, still icy and edged
on both sides by steep pine-riddled ravines.
At the end of the driveway the huge structure
of the Pierce mansion loomed against the last
light on the mountains. There
were several cars in front of the house—all
SUVs, including a Range Rover, two Mercedes G
Class and a Lexus LX.
As Katie and David drove the last
twenty yards of the gravel road, stanchion
lights flashed on, illuminating the entire
frontage of the estate.
“Welcome to our little chalet,” he
said. “My father has been looking forward to
your arrival.” Dressed in casual ski resort
clothes, Pierce pointed to a space where they
could park the car, then came over to greet
the two Americans.
“No trouble finding the place, I
assume?”
“Not in the least,” said David. “Like
you said, everybody seems to know where this
place is.”
“It is pretty big,” said Pierce.
“Bigger than we need, but we get a lot of work
done here and have it outfitted for offices as
well as living quarters. At the moment it’s
just the two of us here.”
Taking Katie’s arm he said, “Careful on
the ice here. It’s very slippery.”
David wondered to himself how come a
rich guy like Pierce wouldn’t have heated the
entire driveway.
Once inside the enormity of the
building became very evident. Katie and David
were standing in a baronial room about
thirty-five feet high, flanked by hallways,
with a central staircase leading to a second
floor that wrapped around the perimeter of the
first, all done in exquisitely polished wood
designed to indicate this was as far from a
cozy log cabin chalet as one could imagine.
Baldassari had told them the place was worth
about $40 million, complete with ten bedrooms,
both a plunge pool and Turkish bath, an
outdoor pool and a Himalayan salt room.
“Come,” said Pierce, “My father’s in his
study. Can I get you anything to drink?”
“Water would be fine,” said Katie, and
David nodded. Katie took her notepad and pen
from her bag and slipped them into her parka.
Pierce led them down a hallway that
opened into an adjacent large room with
windows overlooking a vast expanse of mountain
landscape at the top of which the very last
light of the day was fading from violet to
deep gray. The walls were
lined with books. There was a
fireplace at least five feet high and six feet
wide,
Angus Pierce’s voice boomed in a voice
with a distinct South African accent.
“Welcome, welcome! I’ve been looking forward
to this meeting since Richard told me you were
in town. Everybody knows everybody else’s
doings in this little burg. I hear you had
lunch with Alessandra up at the Coveglia.
She’s quite a gal, isn’t she? Smart as a whip,
very wickedly funny, knows where all
the bones are buried. But, of course, she’s
really just a high-class gossipmonger, isn’t
she? You, however, Miss Cavuto, are
world famous for your investigative journalism.
Even put your life on the line, I’m told.”
“Real derring-do, from what I read.
That business with the Vermeer painting.
Y’know, I thought of bidding on that, too.
Glad I didn’t from how things turned out. I
prefer to keep out of danger when it comes to
art auctions.”
David was looking at the surroundings
and saw a large bronze statue of a bison
on Pierce’s desk.
“Oh, that,” said Pierce. “You may have
heard that Robert Maxwell, Rubert Murdoch and
I were called the ‛Three Bison’ of the
publishing world by Time magazine.
After that, my wife had that rather heavy
paperweight made for me. I think it says
‛Number One Bison’ or something. Pick it up
and look, on the bottom. Good-looking piece,
don’t you think?”
David picked it up and found it was
indeed heavy. He turned it over and it said
what Pierce said it would, with the addition
of what David assumed was the Number One
Bison’s wife’s name.
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NOTES FROM THE
WINE CELLAR
AUGUST GRAB BAG
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The Dog Days of summer are upon
us, so the livin’ should be easy. Time to pluck some
bottles from the shelf and try something new.
Avignonesi
Desiderio Toscana I.G.T. Merlot 2021 ($57).
As
pictured on the label, Desiderio was a prized Chianina
bull on the estate Capezzine farm a century ago. The
wine is 100% Merlot, from terroir rich in clay and
spring frost and mild
summer, which allowed the grapes to ripen to ideal sugar
levels, emerging, after 24 months in oak, at 14% alcohol.
Roederer Estate
Sparking Wine 2021 ($55). The grapes for this
California sparkler come from an Anderson Valley former
apple orchard named Apple Alley. It was a tough vintage
year, still in drought conditions and missing the usual
summer fog, so that yields were very low and berries
were small but concentrated, with high sugars and good
acids. The blend is 80.3% Chardonnay and 19.7% Pinot
Noir, so that the fruit is forward and underlined by
velvety, aromatic notes and lovely alcohol level of
12.9%. ❖❖❖ ![]() WHAT THE WORLD NEEDS NOW "The Hands Down Cheapest
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MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish.
Contributing
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