MARIANI’S Virtual Gourmet
Founded in 1996 ARCHIVE "Two Layer Cake" By Galina Dargery (2018)
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THIS WEEK O LITTLE TOWN OF TUCKAHOE By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER VIA VAI By John Mariani THE MAGDALENE LAUNDRIES CHAPTER FIFTY-TWO By John Mariani ❖❖❖
OF TUCKAHOE, WHAT GOOD FOOD YOU HAVE By John Mariani Mural of Cinco de Mayo at Burrito Poblano
The
variety of restaurants in small towns outside of
big cities in America is nothing short of
amazing, especially when a town is a village
only six-tenths of a square mile, with a
population of 7,000 people. This
would be Tuckahoe, New York, 35 minutes from
Grand Central Terminal and my home town for the
past forty-five years. Though
not as wealthy as Bronxville to the south or
Scarsdale to the north, Tuckahoe is solidly
upper middle class, and been used in several
movies and period TV shows as an exemplary
American small town.
When I moved here good places to eat were
few and only fair, catering mostly to a clientele
of Italian-Americans whose parents once
worked the marble quarry that provided the pure
white raw material for the Washington Square
Arch, St. Patrick’s Cathedral and the Washington
Monument. The
quarry closed in 1930 and the ethnic make-up of
the village expanded, so today it is a very rich
mix of race, color and creed from everywhere.
All that has led to a plethora of
restaurants as good as any in Westchester
County, with
a brand new, excellent Japanese restaurant named
Sushi Ume (28 Columbus Avenue;
914-961-1888), whose sushi and sashimi is
definitely a cut above so many other places that
use second-rate
fish. Here the species are distinctly flavorful
and impeccably fresh. I especially recommend
their chawanmusihi of steamed egg with
snow crab, shrimp mushrooms and salmon roe; the
aji-gari horse mackerel with ginger roll;
the colorful bento boxes; and
the elaborate “Tuckahoe roll” of eel, shrimp,
cream cheese, avocado, white fish, scallion,
spicy mayo and eel sauce. They offer an omekase
at the counter for $150 per person. Even
newer is Taco Bahama (64 Main Street;
845-501-8132), a jazzy new idea for modern
Mex-Asian tapas and a lively bar, serving
unusual tapas and rice bowls like Korean
shortribs with yumyum sauce; the “Tack-ahoe
“with crispy rock shrimp; the “Baja” with
grilled cod and chipotle crema; and pork belly
with ponzu sauce and pickled onion. The same
owner’s first restaurant in just up the street––Buleria
Tapas & Wine Bar (106 Main Street;
914-600-8639), a shadowy, seductive room
with its own exotic cocktails and delicious
charcuterie, paellas, hot and cold tapas and
grilled meats. In addition, right across the
street is a charming traditional Mexican
restaurant, Burrito Poblano (85 Main
Street; 914-337-7900),
now 25 years in business, offers sumptuous meals
made from first-rate ingredients in dishes like
flautas, enchiladas, empanadas and a
terrifically
rich queso fundido. Owner Gilberto Garcia, a
native of Pueblo, stocks an array of
hard-to-find tequilas and mezcals. Ask
ten Tuckahoans which of the myriad Italian
restaurants serving pizza in the area makes the
best and you’ll get ten different answers.
Since I’ve eaten at all of them over many
decades, my go-to place preference is for the
Italian-American style of Neapolitan pizza
served at Villagio’s (66 Main Street;914-961-3200))––here
since
1963––whose pies have the perfect, puffy, chewy
crust, a richness of toppings and a
well-balanced tomato sauce. There’s also an
extensive menu of Italian pastas and meats, and,
with only half a dozen tables, it’s really a
take-out place. Different
but equally as good is Zero Otto Nove (16
Depot Square; 914-337-6941) is a branch of
the original on Arthur Avenue in the Bronx and
serves a softer Sorrento-style pizza. But
chef-owner Roberto Paciullo has a full-scale
menu and spreads over two floors, with a
gleaming bar up front and well decorated rooms
evocative of Sorrento to the rear (left).
The most exciting Italian
restaurant––unique, really––is the small
storefront ODO
(72 Main
Street; 913-222-9248), which opened
three years ago and is packed every night (left).
It only has a few tables and a tiny counter,
where owner chef Nickolas Odoardi
has poured his heart into his ancestral Abruzzese
cuisine, which includes spuntini bites
of house-cured meats and some fabulous scarpetta
country bread to top with dried figs and porcini
and carpaccio saltimbocca. His pastas are
outstanding, from a pistachio pesto to pata alla
Norma with stracciatella, fresh tomato and fried
eggplant. For a main course go with the lamb
shoulder steak with pumpkin and potato or the
pork braciola roll with potato gnocchi.
The village is also home to two beer
pubs: One, Growler’s Beer Bistro (25
Main Street; 914-793-0608) near the train
station and located within a former sub-station,
features 20 local brews that include those from
Peekskill Brewery, Hudson Valley Brewery and
Industrial Arts Brewery. The other is the
family-owned Broken Bow Brewery (173
Marbledale Road; 913-268-0900), that
proclaims that they make every brew in
house––the steel beer tanks are right inside the
dining room––including Broken Routines Mosaic
& Amarillo IPA and
Small Arms Dealer Pilsner. It also prides
itself on having a garden where guests’ dogs
can scamper about and dine on some nibbles.
The food is largely hefty sandwiches and
burgers, along with housemade desserts.
We also have a darling French pastry shop, Martine’s
(10 Fisher Avenue; 914-346-8650) that
makes wonderful rainbow-tinted
macaroons, fruit tarts, baba and croissants
along with an extensive breakfast and lunch menu
of items like omelets, French toast and three
quiches.
For two and six-foot hero sandwiches––the
“Calabrese” piled high with mortadella,
asiago and marinated eggplant is a whole lot of
goodness––and superb, morning-fresh mozzarella’s
Pasquale’s Deli (26
Columbus Ave.; 914-652-7368) is as good as
it gets
These are the best of Tuckahoe’s bunch,
but we also have two Chinese
restaurants take-out
eateries, another Mexican restaurant called Rio
Bravo and a pretty good Indian restaurant
Spice Village, though they can take an
awful long time to get it out of the kitchen. Roma’s,
which has been in the village longer than I
have, is the family favorite in the village for
pizza and big portions of Italian fare.
With all these––along with
a yogurt shop catty corner to a Carvel ice cream
store––it almost seems there’s not much room
left over for houses, train stations––we have
two––police and fire stations, post office and
churches, but we’ve managed to maintain the
feeling of small town charm that has made
Tuckahoe attractive for several movie and TV
series locations, including The Good Wife,
The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel, The Irishman and
The Sopranos. And
nobody ever leaves hungry. ❖❖❖
NEW YORK CORNER
VIA VAI Astoria,
Queens, NY 347-612-4334
Roman cuisine seems to be having its
moment in New York with new trattorias and older
restaurants all featuring dishes like cacio
e pepe, penne all’amatriciana and
spaghetti alla carbonara, made with
varying degrees of success and authenticity. Yet
for ten years now one of the most exemplary of
chefs, Antonio Morichini, has been doing all
these dishes and many more from the Roman
repertoire with the deft refinement of someone
born and bred in the Eternal City.
And because Via Vai is so small––36
seats––he can handle a full house by making
everything himself, from fresh pastas through
dessert. He’s proud of saying that if he is not in
the kitchen Via Vai is not open, so that
consistency has been a given for a decade now. His
wife Cynthia is also hands-on.
The daily menu offers all the classic Roman
dishes above but adds more daily that are
particularly his, like the wonderful
branzino that he bakes within a cartoccio
of focaccia dough that steams the fish and makes
it enormously succulent with oil and lemon.
The premises are modest, with dark walls
hung with black and white photos, a tile floor and
a long tufted banquette. The noise level is just
fine, and his manager Stella makes everything hum
from picking
up the phone to taking orders, popping wine
bottles , telling you specials and serving it all
up with gusto from start to finish. Via
Vai’s
wine list is very solid and well-priced with many
under $80 along with a number of beers (no
liquor).
Among the antipasti is a platter ($28) of mortadella,
soppressata
and a savory rustic pie, as well as an unusual
salad called rape rosse ($16) of red
beets, arugula, melon, pine nuts and goat’s
cheese.
Morichini
makes a very good Margherita-style pizza ($17)
with a nice, pliable crust, more Neapolitan than
Roman.
I keep being amazed at how well pasta is
now being made in New York restaurants (French
examples exempted), and I’d most certainly rank
Morichini’s among the very best in terms of
delicacy, exemplified by a special of sheer
ravioli filled with shrimp ($28; left).
His tonnarelli cacio e pepe ($23) is
first-rate in the creaminess achieved by careful
incorporation of simple ingredients, and if you
want a textbook version of bucatini
all’Amatriciana ($28), his will serve impeccably. The
risotto with full-flavored saffron ($32) had the
precise “waviness” of the grains pumped through
with chicken broth (which he makes himself).
We tried the branzino cloaked in the
focaccia and it was superb. Other main courses are
few, from pork fillet with thinly sliced
prosciutto ($28) to large shrimp in a katafi crust
with sauteed spinach and a dash of balsamico
(($34).
Desserts
have the flavor and supple texture of being
homemade: Tiramisù ($13), panna cotta
($10) and gelati ($13).
Via Vai’s prices are, by comparison with
Manhattan and Brooklyn’s (where pastas are running
above $30), modest, and if you‘re driving in, you
won’t have to pay that obnoxious new nine-dollar
fee you would going south of 60th
Street in Manhattan. The subway to take is the N
or Q to Ditmars Boulevard. Plus, the restaurant is
only a few minutes from LaGuardia, so next time my
plane has an inevitable three-hour delay, I know
exactly where I’ll be relaxing for a great Italian
meal. Open Tues.-Sun. for
dinner. ❖❖❖
THE MAGDALENE LAUNDRIES By John Mariani CHAPTER FIFTY-TWO
Katie and David
returned in Finger’s car to Garda
headquarters, where they gave lengthy
statements about what had occurred. By
then the police at the scene of the crime
had sent specialists down to the shoreline
and found the bodies of two men in the
Land Rover. A coroner would later report
that both men had broken necks and backs
from the fall but that the cause of death
was drowning.
“I don’t suppose you’d let me
carry a service pistol,” said David,
already knowing the answer.
“Okay,” said Finger, “so let’s get
you into your new home for the next couple
o’ days.”
While
eating the curry and drinking Irish beers,
Katie and David went over the day’s
events. © John Mariani, 2018 ❖❖❖ BLOCK THAT
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NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
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