HOW THE FIRST
RESTAURANTS CAME TO BE
By John Mariani
NEW YORK CORNER
SUSHI AKIRA
By John Mariani
THE BISON
CHAPTER TWENTY-ONE
By John Mariani
NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
NEW ROSÉ WINES, PART TWO By John Mariani
❖❖❖
HOW
THE FIRST RESTAURANT
CAME TO BE
By
John Mariani
Boulanger's Traiteur
From
the time Roman roads and Arab caravansaries
made trade and travel possible in
Europe and Asia, those who required sustenance
along the route had to rely on
the most basic amenities at waystops and inns.The food was rudimentary, there was no
choice, the price was fixed. In France in
the mid-18th
century, the cooking at such inns was somewhat
better and more varied, for the
cooks were guild members called “traiteurs,”
trained to cater to a
traveling clientele of merchants with money to
spend. The concept of a public
place selling full meals is of
rather recent origins, for although inns and
taverns of one form or another
have long histories, the main business of such
places was either as a dispenser
of spirits or as a travelers’ waystop that
sold food only incidentally.
The word “restaurant” is
French, from the
verb restaurer,
“to restore.” But the
word restaurant
in France referred
specifically to a restorative kind of soup,
according to the guild guidelines
for cookshops called traiteurs.
Therefore, when an upstart Parisian traiteur
named Boulanger in 1765 served a soup of sheep’s
foot in white sauce and called
it a restaurant,
his colleagues took
him to court to refute the service of such a
dish. Boulanger won, and his restaurant
became fashionable. Then, in
1782, a traiteur
named Beauvilliers
began serving guests at separate tables, and the
term restaurant came to describe such
establishments.
At the
aristocrats’ courts, brigades of cooks prepared
lavish meals at great expense,
but neither
king nor his courtiers ever ate at a restaurant
for the simple
reason there was no such thing until Parisian
entrepreneur and financier Mathurin
Roze de Chantoiseau—infamous for a harebrained
scheme to settle the National
Debt--opened up a free-standing dining room in
1766 near the Palais Royal where
patrons could eat when and what they wished to
from a changing menu. Roze de
Chantoiseau’s “Founder’s Statement” insisted his
restaurant would serve
“delicate and healthful foods” that would be
“served not at a table d’hôtel,
but at any hour of the day, by the dish, and at
a fixed price.” In
fact, the early offerings at Roze de
Chantoiseau’s restaurant were largely
restorative bouillons, but the idea of the place
caught on quickly, so that
within a few month’s of its opening, Denis
Diderot wrote that “everybody eats
alone there, each in his own little cabinet.It is truly marvelous, and it seems to me
that everybody sings its
praises.” Other
restaurants followed and drew people to them at
all hours, especially since
traiteurs, by law, had to close by ten or eleven
PM.What
Mathurin Roze de Chantoiseau set in
motion became a fixture of Parisian life and the
model for eating
establishments throughout Europe and America. After the
French Revolution and the persecution of the
aristocracy, including an great number of
beheadings, including King Louis XVI, their
chefs were out of work but presumably happy they
did not have to prepare feast for 500 people at
a time. Instead they opened restaurants in
Paris that, after the Reign of Terror, became
popular with the emerging bourgeoisie. In
his Physiology of Taste (1825),
Brillat-Savarin claimed, "any man who can spend
fifteen or twenty francs , and who sits down in
a first class restaurant , is sure to be treated
at least as well as if he sat at a princess
table." By then cookbooks for the professional
cook were being published, with recipes from
esteemed masters like Marie Antoine Carême.
The traiteurs found they
could turn their simple eateries into
"bistros"––a term purported to be coined by
hungry Russian troops entering Paris after
Napoleon's exile in 1814, shouting "Bistra,
bistra!" (quick, quick!), but this is
myth. The term doesn't even appear in French
print until 1880 when it referred to an
innkeeper.
The term restaurant in
American English first occurs in 1820, in James
Fenimore Cooper's novel The Prairie as
"the most renowned of Parisian restaurant," and the first true restaurant in
the U.S. was Delmonico's, which opened in New
York in 1831.
❖❖❖
NEW YORK CORNER
SUSHI
AKIRA
317 East 75th Street
917-921-3239
By John Mariani
Nikki
Zheng
How
does one prepare for an 18-course omakase
dinner?
Skipping
lunch is a good first step, which not only leaves
the belly free to enjoy such
a lavish amount of food but also makes you mindful
that omakase is not just
anotherrestaurant
meal. You prepare
yourself, if not in a zen-like trance, then in a
mental attitude that this is a
special evening, one in which a sushi chef will
stand in front of you and
create your meal with a deft use of knives and
fingers.
This, I
have found, can be a bit off-putting,
even intimidating, depending on the demeanor of
the chef, as well as his
proficiency in English.So I
was
delighted to dine at Sushi Akira, because the
chef and owner, Nikki Zheng, is
not just an accomplished and creative itamae but
also a charming, very affable
host.
“Akira” means “sun
shining” or “a new beginning,” and indeed
the room itself is well lighted inorder
to show the beauty of the food and lend an
amiable atmosphere. So, too, Zheng’s
own sunny disposition and
co-chef Jeff’s, sets the mood in which you can
have a rapport and find out what
magic goes into each morsel of the 18-course
meal.
She began in the most humbling way, as a
part-time dishwasher at a French restaurant,
Quintessence inTokyo. Before
opening her own 12-seat restaurant
Zheng worked at top New York sushi places
including Sushi Nakazawa, Masa, Bar
Masa, Sushi of Gari, and Tsukimi, and that
almost every ingredient used at
Akira comes in from Japan. Seasonality guides
all her decisions as to what to
prepare. And it needs mentioning that the price
of $220 is almost half of what
other restaurants of this quality charge.
There is a good choice of sakes at Akira,
along with a selection of beers and wine, and
JOYCE is the one to consult on
the degrees of floweriness, dryness, sweetness
and other characteristics of the
sakes.
It would be tedious if I
tried to
describe every one of the courses I enjoyed, but
one that has become something
of a signature is a departure from
seafood––Hudson Valley foie gras Monaka, a
red wine-infused foie gras set within a
rice waffle and jelly that comes first in the
succession. From there follow
lightly cooked or warm dishes: Dry, aged sea
bream kasugodai
with cucumber sauce with a cucumber
jelly sauce; Hokkaido amaebii sweet
shrimp; shimaaji striped Jack
simply topped with chives; Miyazaki wagyu beef
sandwiched in a kind of waffle
cone bread with onion sauce; owan fish
dumpling in
a clam broth; slowly cooked with abalone
liver sauce, seaweed and shiso flower; kegani
uni and Hokkaido hairy
crab. Then came the nigiri sushi: Isaki
grunt fish with a tart sudachi
citrus fruit; Sayori silver halfbeak
with ginger; Chutoro zuke was
a medium-fatty tuna,
followed by a
marvelous Hagashitoro
fatty tuna
with salt flakes; creamy minced negitoro tuna
with caviar; Uni sea urchins; Anagosea
eel salt-grilled shioyaki style.
Last, two desserts: Hojicha roasted
green tea pudding; Shizuoka
musk melon.
Important
to all omakase meals is the
progression of clean flavors, seasonings,
heavier items and intense flavors,
all of which is part of Zheng’s design.
Balance is what
makes such a meal easy to
ingest and digest, and I left the counter
feeling sated but not full. That in
itself takes talent and precision, which you can
see as Zheng works–she has at
least half a dozen knives for various
ingredients––and to be able to enjoy her
personality and enthusiasm is every bit as
wonderful as the food.
❖❖❖
THE BISON
By John Mariani
Donald Trump, Melania Knauss,
Jeffrey Epstein and Ghislaine
Maxwell
“Looks like Epstein and Maxwell
are back in town,” Dobell told Katie. “Page
Six says they held a party at his mansion
last night with all the usual gang of pols,
lawyers, actors and so on. Woody Allen was
there.” “With his
wife Soon-Yi?” “Doesn’t say.” “Maybe it’s time to make another call
to Ghislaine.” “You think she’ll talk to you?” “Well, I’m going to tell her about all
I’ve found out since the New York
Magazine sale. See if she or Jeffrey has any
comment. David thinks she’s actually dying to
talk about it. He thinks she has guilt
feelings and wants her side of the story
known.” “That I doubt.” “No comment is always a comment,” said
Katie. “Worth a try.” Katie called the number she had for
Maxwell and got a recording. Katie left a
message that she was looking into the police
investigation about Epstein going on in Palm
Beach, saying, “I hope I can get your side of
the story.” At three o’clock Maxwell called her
back. Without any hello, she said, “You know
very well Jeffrey can’t talk about an ongoing
investigation. His lawyers would never allow
it.” “And what about you?” asked Katie,
seeking to find out if Maxwell herself was
under the same investigation. There was a long pause, then Maxwell
said, “Can we speak off the record?” “I doubt that’s going to work, but we
can try.” “Right. How about coming over to my
townhouse tonight around seven-thirty? You
have the address?” Katie did and closed off the
conversation, saying she’d be there right on
time. Epstein had, supposedly, bought
Maxwell’s five-story 1910 Beaux Arts townhouse
on East 65th Street apartment for
five million dollars in 2002 and it was worth
a great deal more now. Katie rang the doorbell and heard
Maxwell say through the intercom, “Coming down
right now.” Thirty seconds later she opened
the iron grill entrance doors flanked by Ionic
columns and led her into a huge foyer with a
curved staircase to one side and an elevator
to the other, with a red carpet in the middle
and on one wall what Katie thought was a
Pre-Raphaelite painting of musicians. “Come into the drawing room,” said
Maxwell, who was dressed in black jeans and a
red cashmere turtleneck. “There’s no one here
but the two of us.” They sat on opposite couches, near an
ornate marblefireplace, and Katie took out her
recorder and placed it on the glass coffee
table. “I thought we agreed to be off the
record,” said Maxwell. “And I said we’d give it a try. Let’s
see how it goes on the record.” Maxwell nodded and waved her hand. Katie began. “Last time we spoke I kept
my promise to only ask Jeffrey about his
bidding on New York, which he failed
to get.
That story was tanked by my editor because
there wasn’t much beyond the sale to carry it.
But since then I’ve been looking into why the
Palm Beach police are investigating Jeffrey
for sex trafficking. Is that something you can
tell me about now?” Maxwell did not hesitate. “It’s all
rubbish.” Katie said nothing and waited, then
said, “So you never saw any of that sort of
thing going on at Jeffrey’s various homes? You
were in no way involved in any such
activities? And I ask you that question on the
record.” Maxwell made a fist and hit the table.
“Never. You hear all this stuff about
massages, and yes, Jeffrey loved to
get a massage. Sometimes three a day, so he
had professional masseuses come in on a
regular schedule.” “Always young women?” “Not always young. Some had years of
experience.” “And did you arrange that schedule?” “Some of the time, yeah.” “You used agencies I could look up in
Palm Beach or Manhattan that offer massage
therapy?” Maxwell replied, “Okay, this is totally
on the record. I’m sure you did some research
on my background. This beautiful townhouse
you’re sitting in—where I grew up it would fit
into one wing. My family lived in a 52-room
mansion on fourteen acres of beautiful
countryside outside of Oxford (right).
My father was a member of the British
Parliament, owned many newspapers, including
the New York Daily News at one time,
and he named his yacht after me. Do I sound
like someone who would become a social
secretary for Jeffrey or anyone else?” Katie flipped over pages of her
notebook. “As I understand it, after your
father died you had a trust fund that paid you
a hundred thousand dollars a year, which,
obviously, doesn’t go very far in New York.
Certainly not enough to buy this little
townhouse.” “I think it’s well known that Jeffrey
helped me out with securing a loan while I
made my way in the New York real estate
industry.” “And you’ve lived here for, what, about
two years?” Maxwell nodded. “My point is, Katie,
Jeffrey came from nothing and achieved a great
deal in his life. I admire him and we’ve had
some very good times together. He’s extremely
generous to his friends” “And did you have a romantic
relationship with him?” “I have no comment on that.” “But it’s safe to say you spend a great
deal of time with him, here and at his other
properties? I can’t seem to find real estate
sales you’ve made in the records over the past
five years.” “Let’s just say my life has taken a
turn for the better. I loved my father very
much, and his death affected me very deeply.” “And I understand you have suggested
that it was not
a suicide but a murder?” Maxwell stood up and walked to the
fireplace to stoke the flames. “I do indeed. But that’s not what
you’re here to ask me, is it?” “No,” said Katie, “I just want to get
all the details straight.” “On the record I have every reason to
believe he was murdered. The press said he was
in dire debt and could not face it. Rubbish!
My father was afraid of nothing and no man. He
had pulled himself out of financial ruin more
times than any of his colleagues, and, unlike
Donald Trump, he did it by using his
tremendous business acumen.” “Do you want to tell me who you think
murdered your father?” “No, I do not. Can we get back to your
questions about Jeffrey?” Katie sensed that Maxwell was trying to
distance herself from Epstein, perhaps trying
to get her side of the story out and fend off
the police. Katie turned more pages of her
notebook. “Do you know who Virginia Giuffre is?” Maxwell placed the fireplace poker back
in its stand and said, “Virginia is an absolute
liar and everything she has said is a lie.
Therefore, based on those lies I cannot
speculate on what anybody else did or didn’t
do.Everything
she
said is false. Everything.” “So she was not one of Jeffrey’s
masseuses?” “She might have been. There were a lot
of them at the various properties. They’d
travel with him, so I might have met one
called Virginia. But I never heard of this
Giuffre girl.” “Well, that’s her married name now. Her
maiden name was Peters.” “I only
know she used the name Giuffre when she
attacked Jeffrey’s reputation and went to the
police.” “And did you ever see Giuffre with
Prince Andrew?” “Andrew is a very good friend of
Jeffrey’s and they travel together often. They
might have had
a masseuse on the plane.” “Giuffre?” “I don’t know, maybe once or twice.” “She also said it was you who
introduced Prince Andrew to her.” Maxwell paused to gather her thoughts,
thinking hard and quickly, then saying, “All I
remember is that this Giuffre, or Peters,
whatever her name was, met Andrew at one of
Jeffrey’s parties. I don’t recall,but
maybe he asked me something like, who is that
girl? And I might have introduced them.” “And you never trained Giuffre as a
masseuse or sent her to Thailand to be
professionally trained?” “Perhaps Jeffrey did. I don’t have any
such connections in Thailand.” Katie now strongly suspected Maxwell
was trying to put space between herself and
Epstein and was
probably well aware of everything Giuffre had
told the police. “So, I just want to make sure,” said
Katie. “Back in 1993—that’s two years after
you moved to New York—someone placed an ad in
a magazine called Yoga Journal
offering a ‛full time position for an Iyengar
Yoga Instructor to
teach a private individual.’ And that the ‛job
includes fantastic perks such as extensive
travel,’ then said interested parties should
call ‛Miss
Maxwell’ at a phone number that was Epstein’s
office number at the time. Was that you?” Maxwell
looked surprised by the questions and
stammered, “When was this? Nineteen
ninety-three? That was twelve years ago. I
don’t remember but it’s possible that Jeffrey
did ask me to place such an ad for experienced
and well-trained masseuses. There was nothing
sexual about it.” “And did some masseuses take you up on
the offer?”
“I just can’t remember
that far back. There might have been some and
if so, they were paid well and did enjoy the
perks of traveling with Jeffrey. I hired a lot
of various people to work at Jeffrey’s houses.
They need a lot of upkeep. But only avery
small part of my job from time to time was to
find adult professional massage therapists for
him, and as far as I knew, everyone who came
to his house was an adult professional
therapist. Jeffrey has serious back problems.”
Katie felt that if Maxwell
had any knowledge of Epstein’s financial
dealings she would play dumb, so it was not
worth taking up time in the interview.
“Okay,” she said, “can you
just confirm that the following men have, for
whatever reason, attended Epstein’s parties?”
“Go
ahead.”
Katie
reeled off the names and Maxwell either said
yes or she couldn’t recall. Then, to Katie’s
surprise, she gave her other names of other
prominent men. Katie realized Maxwell was
trying to gather as many of such men into
Epstein’s world so that, if they came under
scrutiny, they’d be willing to help Epstein in
any way they could. Make some calls, write
some letters. Maxwell knew very well that
Katie was going to be in contact with every
name on the now long list. All of it on the
record.
“Last
question,” said Katie. “Do you believe that
Jeffrey will be indicted, either for sex
trafficking or financial misconduct?”
"I don’t see them
getting anywhere with his financials. I
imagine you know that men like Jeffrey keep
their assets well out of reach. As for the sex
trafficking, I find it impossible to believe
that anyone’s going to take the word of some
girl or a bunch of whores trying to extort
Jeffrey.”
Katie said, “Why do you
call them whores?”
Maxwell
stuttered, “Well, I, I, mean that as a figure
of speech. Some of them may well have been
prostitutes or been offered money by these men
to, to, go beyond massage.”
“Do the
names Ramona Sanchez and Vargas mean anything
to you?”
`Maxwell
just shook her head, thensaid,
“Katie, it’s getting late. I’ve been very open
with you, and I hope you take my side of the
story seriously. You’re not going to get
Jeffrey to speak with you. And, I should tell
you that he knows about your working on this
story and is very distressed.”
“Meaning
what?”
“Meaning
he can be vindictive.”
“Meaning
what?”
“That’s
all
I’ll say. Let me show you out.”
Anyone who contends rosés are not among his favorite
wines may well not have tasted the wide range of
varietals and styles now in the market. Here is Part
Two of what I've been enjoying.
Domaine Serene
Multi-Vintage ‘r’ Rosé v. XV($44).
The “XV” indicates the number of years Domaine
Serene has been making rosé in
Oregon, in a dry style with a pleasing 13.5%
alcohol. It has a brilliant rose
color and makes a fine apéritif or be perfect with
a cold chicken salad.
McCullum
Heritage 91 Willamette 2022
($33).Age
counts in rosés, if not as much in red
wines, the extra time can bring out nuances, as in
this 2023 rose made from
100% Pinot Noir in the Chehalem Mountains, as a
combination of both pressed and saignéed juices, fermented for 30 days
entirely in stainless at cool
temperatures, then, the majority of the wine (76%)
was
aged in stainless steel tanks and (24%) in
neutral oak barrels for two months. It
goes very well with pork.
Willamette Valley Vineyards
Estate Rosé 2024.
Among the first distinguished Willamette Valley
wineries, founded in 1983, Owner Jim Bernau knew
how well Pinot Noir would grow
there. So he can make informed decisions about how
well the varietal will
translate into a rose. He makes three: A very pink
Orange Blossom Sparkling Rosé
($26); a delicious 2021 Brut Rosé; and a still
Estate of Pinot Noir ($35). Each
has its own flavor profile you should
try.
La Marca Prosecco DOC Rosé 2024($17),Described
as a “playfully pink Italian
prosecco,” this is an unusual departure for the
best-known Italian sparklers, made
from the traditional Glera (89%) with Pinot Noir
(11%) with a light 11%
alcohol. Made on the prime terroir along the Piave
River, the moderate climate
keeps it fresh and fruited with a good tang of
acid. Very good with Italian
seafood, from branzino to cuttlefish.
Gerard
Bertrand Côtes
des Rosés 2024 ($18). This lovely, well priced wine from
the Languedoc is a traditional
blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault with 13%
alcohol, so it is of medium body
with a longer finish on the palate than most
roses. It is also quintessentially
French, dry with only a hint of pleasing
sweetness. Its bottle is shaped like a
rose. Drink it with foods of the region like brandade
de morue or tielle
sétoise with octopus and tomato.
❖❖❖
"Cocktails
aren’t just drinks but `timeless masterpieces,'
pictured on the menu sitting in
cooling fountains, simmering in volcanoes.
Everything is rich, exotic,
voluptuous and paradisaical, and arranged not in
courses but, as in life, in 'chapters.' 'Be
transported to the mystical Grecian isles,' it coos,
'through a
Greek-Mediterranean dining experience like no
other.'"—"Fenix: A Review" by Camilla Long, The
Times
(5/3/26)
❖❖❖
Any of John Mariani's
books below may be ordered from amazon.com.
The Hound in Heaven
(21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and
for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance,
inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find
this to be a treasured favorite. The story
concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and
their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their
barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise.
But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and
the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring
his master back from the edge of despair.
“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was
completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its
message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw
“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight,
soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani
pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing.
Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James
Dalessandro, author of Bohemian
Heart and 1906.
“John Mariani’s Hound in
Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an
American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise
event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a
voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A
page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote
for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann
Pearlman, author of The
Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.
“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a
literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and
the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas
tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children,
read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly
recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling
author of Pinkerton’s War,
The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To
Woodbury.
“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an
animal. The Hound in
Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that
is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and
his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can
enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara
Royal, author of The
Royal Treatment.
Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but
let me proudly say that it is an extensive
revision of the 4th edition that appeared more
than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular
cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and
so much more, now included. Word origins have been
completely updated, as have per capita consumption
and production stats. Most important, for the
first time since publication in the 1980s, the
book includes more than 100 biographies of
Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat
and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to
Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.
"This book is amazing! It has entries for
everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more
than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and
drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.
"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.
Now in Paperback,
too--How Italian Food Conquered the
World (Palgrave Macmillan) has won top prize from the
Gourmand
World Cookbook Awards. It is
a rollicking history of the food culture of
Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st
century by the entire world. From ancient Rome
to la dolce
vita of post-war Italy, from Italian
immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from
pizzerias to high-class ristoranti,
this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as
much about the world's changing tastes,
prejudices, and dietary fads as about
our obsessions with culinary fashion and
style.--John Mariani
"Eating Italian will
never be the same after reading
John Mariani's entertaining and
savory gastronomical history of
the cuisine of Italy and how it
won over appetites worldwide. . .
. This book is such a tasteful
narrative that it will literally
make you hungry for Italian food
and arouse your appetite for
gastronomical history."--Don
Oldenburg, USA Today.
"Italian
restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far
outnumber their French rivals. Many of
these establishments are zestfully described
in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an
entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by
food-and-wine correspondent John F.
Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street
Journal.
"Mariani
admirably dishes out the story of
Italy’s remarkable global ascent
to virtual culinary
hegemony....Like a chef gladly
divulging a cherished family
recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the
secret sauce about how Italy’s
cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David
Lincoln Ross,
thedailybeast.com
"Equal parts
history, sociology, gastronomy, and just
plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the
World tells the captivating and delicious
story of the (let's face it) everybody's
favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and
more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews,
editorial director of The Daily
Meal.com.
"A fantastic and fascinating
read, covering everything from the influence
of Venice's spice trade to the impact of
Italian immigrants in America and the
evolution of alta cucina. This book will
serve as a terrific resource to anyone
interested in the real story of Italian
food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's
Ciao
Italia.
"John Mariani has written the
definitive history of how Italians won their
way into our hearts, minds, and
stomachs. It's a story of pleasure over
pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer,
owner of NYC restaurants Union Square
Cafe, The Modern, and Maialino.
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish.
Contributing
Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical
Advisor: Gerry
McLoughlin.