MARIANI’S

 

Virtual Gourmet

January 18, 2026                                                                                                       NEWSLETTER

                           
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THIS WEEK


WHEN COLUMBUS SAILED WESTWARD
HE CHANGED THE WORLD'S GASTRONOMY
By John Mariani


NEW YORK CORNER
UTSAV

By John Mariani


THE BISON
CHAPTER  THREE
By John Mariani

NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
CHAMPAGNE AND SPARKLERS AT GOOD PRICES

By John Mariani


 

 

WHEN COLUMBUS SAILED WESTWARD HE CHANGED THE WORLD’S GASTRONOMY



By John Mariani


 

 

 

       It is easy enough to prove how Christopher Columbus’s discovery of the New World completely altered the world’s food and gastronomy, but it is also wholly reasonable to claim that his setting foot on the island the natives called Guanahani was the single most transformative event in human history.

       His goal was to sail westward from Spain to find a Spice Route to the Orient—he estimated Japan to be about 3,000 miles from the Canary Islands—and to bring back gold, this, at a time when spices were nearly worth their weight in precious metals.

        As a reward, his Spanish benefactors, Ferdinand and Queen Isabella, said Columbus would be entitled to ten percent of all the revenues from the new lands in perpetuity and the option to buy a one-eighth interest in any commercial venture and receive one-eighth of the profits.

       Driven by easterly winds for two-and-a-half months, Columbus spotted a light at two o’clock in the morning of October 12, and upon landing found a tropical Eden, a place “extremely verdant and fertile, with the air agreeable, and probably containing many things of which I am ignorant, not inclining to stay here, but to visit other islands in search of gold.”      

       In every sense, Columbus failed to find what he’d been sent to find, but within a decade that fertility he found was of far more importance. “The Columbian Exchange,” a term coined in 1972 by historian Alfred W. Crosby, was a radical, headlong transformation of the world’s food, land use, wealth and geopolitics.

       America gave scores of new foods to the rest of the world—corn, tomatoes, potatoes, chile peppers, agave, turkey, cocoa, pineapple, squash, vanilla, wild rice, and more. In exchange, Europeans brought to America cattle, chickens, honey bees, bananas, rice, barley, garlic, oats, rye,  and sugarcane.

       He made four voyages and brought back many foods, while those who followed brought more, especially the Spanish in Central and South America. On such an exchange were built colonies and empires, economies and fortunes, with slavery and war the byproducts.      
       Consider European cuisine with white or sweet potatoes, which Antoine-Augustin Parmentier championed in France, creating dinners featuring 20 dishes made from the tuber. Try to imagine Italian cooking without the tomato and pastries without vanilla, cocoa, raspberries and strawberries. What would Indian and East Asian cooking be without the chile pepper?

        By the same token, what would American food be like without wheat for bread or cattle for beef. No southern fried chicken. No honey or sugar.

        Columbus, who never got rich from his exploits, died in 1506, believing himself a failure.  Yet, as the philosopher Santayana wrote, “He gave the world another world.”

 

 



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NEW YORK CORNER

UTSAV 

1185 Avenue of the Americas

212-575-2525

By John Mariani



 

    Of the 17,600 restaurants in New York only a handful have stayed in business, through thick and thin, boom and bust, pandemics and recessions, for a quarter of a century. One that has, still under the same family ownership and at the same location near Rockefeller Center, is Utsav (“festival”), opened by Emiko Kothari and now run by her granddaughter Nandito Khanna.

    Even so, the tougher-than-ever restaurant business affected Utsav, not least closure during Covid, and Khanna has had to re-think Utsav’s relevance at a time when new Indian restaurants are opening all over the city and garnering attention for regional variety.

For one thing, Khanna canceled the long-running buffet that had become dated. For another she has added Chinese and a whole menu of the specialties of Bengali, whence she comes. In Kolkata the influence of Cantonese immigrants in the 18th century had a notable effect on the food culture so that Utsav’s menu now reflects that influence.

The setting has a pleasant bar-lounge downstairs, while the main dining room , with its wall of glass,  is up a flight, near Rockefeller Center, and the interior now has a great deal of color,      globe chandeliers, fine banquette tweed fabrics and violet plush on the very comfortable chairs. The tables are bare, polished wood. I still wish they would bring up the light in the room, or at least add those small lamps to the tables that give off such a lovely glow.

I let Khanna guide our choice of food, mixing a couple of traditional appetizers, then Chinese specialties, then main courses from the Bengali side of the menu. It was feast of color and aroma before even tasting the food.  We began with tandoori-roasted broccoli florets that had been marinated in yogurt and cheese with green chili paste, white pepper powder, black salt and dried fenugreek.  

Butter Chicken (right) is now on every Indian menu, but at Utsav it is stuffed into kulcha buns while another version contained cream cheese.

    Salt and pepper prawns began the Chinese part of the meal,  lightly seasoned and wonderfully meaty.  Dry chili lamb was not in a liquid sauce but highly seasoned with chili sauce. So, too, hot garlic chicken morsels were quickly stir-fried with plenty of spices.

    The Bengali dishes started off with daab chingri, a prawn curry cooked and served inside a green coconut (left). Kosha mangsho was a goat stew, slowly cooked in a spiced gravy with mustard oil, which is a beloved condiment in the region.  But that night the goat’s meat was a bit chewy. Pungent mustard oil called kasundi was the spark for a salad of  cucumber, tomato, and onion.

Creamy indeed was chicken bharta in  a cashew-based sauce with the strong perfume of garam masala, very popular in Kolkata. 

    Barramundi was marinated in mustard, turmeric, green chilies, and mustard oil, then steamed and served in a banana leaf, which seemed to break down the fish’s flesh and made it mushy.

Cholar dal was a quintessential Bengali dish of sweet and savory flavors made from yellow split peas simmered with whole red chilies, coconut and aromatics.  A soothing dish at this point was khichuri, a lentil, and rice porridge fragrant with  garlic, Bengali ghee, coconut and vegetables.

 

    The distinguishing mark of regional Indian food is the way spices are combined to emphasize some and down play others, so that no two sauces ever taste the same, as it too often the case in Indian restaurants where a basic brown gravy seems to be the base for myriad dishes.

India’s breads are always a high point of a meal, puffy, seared, stuffed, or, like the luchi, fried and airy––good for scoping up the gravies.  Garlic naan and rosemary naan were suffused with the garlic and rosemary.

    Rice is also critical to a proper Bengali dinner, and at Utsav it  was ghee-rich bhaat.

    Not everyone cares for Indian dessert as much as I do, and Utsav’s are all freshly made and very good, from gulab jamun in the style of crème brûlée, and misti doi, a traditional very  creamy Bengali yogurt (right) lightly sweetened with caramel.

    Utsav has not stayed in business by remaining always the same, and its menu has evolved as Khanna brings it into its second quarter of a century.

 

Open daily for lunch and dinner.

 












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THE BISON

        By John Mariani


 


CHAPTER SIX



         Katie had a feeling she would not be granted an interview by either Pelts or Wasserstein,  because investment bankers like neither attention nor questions about their dealings unless it was a chance for Jim Kramer to fawn over them on his CNBC show “Mad Money .” After reporting in to Dobell about the Epstein interview, she called the Miramax office in New York to ask about Harvey Weinstein’s availability and was told that he would be back in the city the following day and would respond to Katie’s request then.
         Katie assumed Weinstein wanted to be in New York for the intense bidding war that would soon begin. He’d had a good working relationship with New York’s editors and writers, invited some on press junkets and gave them prime access to visiting actors in his movies, and those actors always followed Weinstein’s directives.
         He had founded Miramax in 1979 with his brother Bob and executive Corky Burger—the name was a combination of the Weinstein’s parents, Miriam and Max—and at first was a film distribution company for foreign producers, then had hits with Quentin Tarantino’s Pulp Fiction,  John Madden’s prestigious Shakespeare in Love, written by British playwright Tom Stoppard, and the movie version of the musical Chicago, which grossed $300 million. Miramax blossomed in the 1990s with independent productions free of Hollywood studios’ interference.
         In June 1993 The Walt Disney Company bought Miramax for $60 million, assuming $40 million in debt, and the contract allowed Weinstein to produce films independently from Disney’s control, while retaining the final say-so on what would be released. Miramax had financial interest in both the highly successful Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit.
        But by the end of the decade relations with Disney had begun to sour, especially after Weinstein, with Disney’s approval,  financed the disastrous Talk Magazine with Tina Brown, which went under in less than two years. Which did not stop him from wanting to buy New York magazine, though that, too, would need investors beyond his own funding. At the same time he was overseeing Martin Scorsese’s movie Gangs of New York for release the following year.
         Like most Hollywood producers, Weinstein could be ruthless when he needed to be and very generous when he needed something or someone. He also had a reputation for using the casting couch as a means to entice young actresses into his extravagant lifestyle. He had met his second wife Eve Chilton, from a wealthy Boston family, 1986, got her a job at Miramax and married within a year. They had three children , having three children. By 2001 the marriage was on the rocks after rumors of his infidelity began., and they’d divorced three years later. 
        
No one Katie spoke with among her colleagues had anything pleasant to say about Weinstein,  and at least two women told her not to do the interview at his hotel, where he was known to appear in nothing but a bathrobe
as his form of seduction.
         He was staying at the Carlyle Hotel on Madison Avenue whose guests often included Hollywood actors and filmmakers.  Weinstein always took the same suite, overlooking the street, where he always asked for a massage bed to be set up. When Katie called his room from the house phone it rang nine times before Weinstein answered, snapping only, “Yeah?”
         Katie identified herself and was told to wait a few minutes in the sedate lobby. Weinstein would call the desk phone when he was ready. It was ten o’clock; Katie’s phone rang at ten-twenty.
         “Come on up,” was all he said.
       Katie rang the bell and waited at least another two minutes before Weinstein opened the door. Katie was only slightly surprised to find that he was, indeed, dressed in a terrycloth bathrobe and had just come from the bathroom wiping his face. He was of average height but, with his thick neck, small eyes, balding bullet head and terribly pock-mocked skin he could not escape comparison to a highly unattractive toad, and at the moment, still oiled from his massage, a rather slimy one at that.
         Beside the massage table a young Asian woman was collecting the sheets. A room service cart with the remains of a continental breakfast was in front of the television screen.
         “Do you want me to have them remove the table?” she asked.
         “No, leave it, I want you back tomorrow, same time. Hey, I’m putting the tip on my hotel bill.”
         The masseuse gathered up the rest of her things while Weinstein tapped his foot, barely recognizing Katie’s presence in the room.
         “Okay, you done?” he asked the masseuse. “I have business to conduct, let yourself out. Thank you.”
         Whatever questionable charm Katie was told Weinstein could turn on was not yet evident, but she could see he was not naked under the robe.
         “Sit down,” he said. “Want coffee? I think there’s some left in the pot.”
         “I’m good,” said Katie, taking a seat on one of the two couches in the room. “Mind if I record the interview.”
         “Long as you turn it off when I say I’m off the record.”
         Katie nodded, opened her notepad and pushed the button on the recorder. She always liked to have her subject make the first response.
         “So, you’re here—I’m sorry, what’s your first name? Cathy?”
         “Katie. Katie Cavuto.”
         McClure’s, right? I almost bought one of your stories, you know.”
         Katie had never heard of that prospect and answered, “No, I didn’t. Mind if I ask which one?”
         “The one about the English spies.”
         Going After Harry Lime?”
         “Yeah,  that was yours? Good story but it was a little too much like The Russia House movie that came out that year. I passed.”
         “The one with Sean Connery.”
         “Right. From one of the Le Carré books. Good director, Fred Schepisi, almost hired him to do Welcome to Sarajevo. You ever seen that?”
         Katie shook her head.
         “Yeah, very few people did. It bombed. Made less than a million bucks worldwide gross. So what are we talking about here?”
         “Your possibly bidding on New York Magazine.”
         Weinstein shrugged. “I may. All depends on where it looks like the bids are headed. It’s not worth more than $35 million.”
         “Why would you want to buy it?”
         “Natural fit with my other companies. Every hand would wash the other.”
         “You didn’t feel you got burned by Talk going under?”
         Weinstein poured himself a half cup of coffee  with cream and sugar and sat down opposite Katie, putting one arm over the couch.
         “Can’t say that was my smartest investment, but I was banking on Tina Brown and her connections to make it work after she left The New Yorker. But the market for magazines was already starting to go soft.”
         “Tell me about it,” said Katie. “There’ll be a lot more going under in the next few years.”
         “How’s McClure’s doing?”
         “Pretty well, all things considered.” She wasn’t going to allow Weinstein to interview her. “But if that’s true about magazines, why take a chance on New York, which is losing money.”
         Weinstein’s hairy legs were spread a bit now.
         New York’s always been a trophy. It never made much money, not even when Clay Felker (below) ran it. For Murdoch it was just an entrance into New York glamor, which he certainly never got from owning the Post. Did you ever hear how the Post’s ad manager tried to talk the head of Bloomingdale’s into buying space, and the guy told him, ‘You don’t understand: Your readers are my shoplifters.’
         “But Rupert got what he wanted out of New York while he had it. He cares more about TV and movies now. He’s so fuckin’ rich that for him the bottom line for any particular entity isn’t as important as the entry it gives him. Off the record?”
         Katie nodded and shut off the recorder.
         “Murdoch is a schmuck.  A very, very rich schmuck, but he’ll always feel like an intruder from Australia where his ancestors were probably castrating sheep with their teeth for a living.”
         “Back on the record?” asked Katie.
         “Yeah, go ahead.”
         “So you think you could turn New York around financially? It didn’t work with Talk.”
         Talk was new and took a shitload of start-up money,  but it was already dated when it came out, and Tina never succeeded in making it more than an upscale version of People—which we should all be so lucky to own. New York’s established, a sexier version of The New Yorker. And believe me, Bloomingdale’s has never not bought space in  New York, right from the beginning. I’m pretty confident that with a new mix of stories— a lot more tie-in between Hollywood and Broadway, capitalizing on that connection, as well as by creating the next big trend will make it work. Back in the seventies the magazine did it all the time: one of the cover stories became the movie Stayin’ Alive. Huge hit. The fuckin’ magazine made the Hamptons chic simply by declaring it to be the place artists and celebrities would go for the summer. Before long the artists couldn’t afford to live there anymore. These days it doesn’t have that kind of power anymore because there’s nobody in there pushing for such stories. Now they’re publishing shit like this.”
         He held up two copies of New York he had on the coffee table. The cover story was “10 Suburbs You Can Afford,” the other “Nanny Nightmare.”
         “I want to publish stories that Hollywood will want to make into movies.”
         “And you’ll be the one to make them?” said Katie.
         “Either me or someone who’ll pay me for the rights, yeah. There’s all kinds of ways to leverage a property.”
         Katie admitted it made sense, so she turned to asking about the other potential buyers.
         “What about Epstein?”
         “Off the record, he’s a fuckin’ pervert. He never made a dime on his own and owes everything to Les Wexler, who owns Victoria’s Secret, y’know. Talk about one hand jerking off another.”
         “So you think it’s Wexler’s money behind Epstein bidding for New York? Why wouldn’t he bid under his own name?”
         “Les probably thinks Jeffrey has a lot of friends who would be valuable in such a sale. Jefferey is a macher. You know what that means in Yiddish? A fixer. Leslie wants to remain back behind the curtain. Preferably with some fuckin’ Russian model who doesn’t need any body work.
         “You gotta know that Jeffrey’s just a big party giver. And his parties are big. I’ve been to them. You’ve never seen so much flesh peddling going on. Lots of teenagers going in and out of his mansion and his little island in the Caribbean.”
         “You know this from seeing it yourself?” asked Katie.
         “Of course!” laughed Weinstein. “I go to Jeffrey’s parties, he’s been to mine. Mine are a lot more discreet, however. Jeffrey’s have a lot of indiscreet doors that open and shut all night long.”
         Given Weinstein’s own reputation for casting couch seductions, Katie thought he was deliberately trying to set himself up as  a modest voyeur rather than a rampant predator. 
        
“Epstein agreed to be interviewed if I only asked about the New York deal and nothing else.”
         “Of course. Y’know he’s being investigated down in Palm Beach for sex trafficking.”
         “Is that true?”
         Rather than go off the record, Weinstein just snickered and shook his right hand.
         “You think he’ll be convicted?”
         Weinstein flicked his fingers at Katie’s recorder, and she shut it off.
         “Never. Jeremy has more shit in his files on anybody who’s ever been associated with him than the Mafia. He’ll get rapped on the knuckles.”
         “Does he have such material on you?”
         Weinstein shook his head, then laughed. “Hell, I hope not. I’ve got three beautiful young children. Katie, we done here?”
         She followed up with a few New York-related questions, closed her notebook and shut off the recorder.
         “I guess that’s it for now,” she said. “Since this sale will probably be over soon, I’d like to call you back after the winning bidder is announced.”
         “Suit yourself. If I do bid I’m not going to get suckered into a deal way above what the magazine’s worth. I don’t do business out of ego.”
         “What exactly does drive you, Mr. Weinstein?”    
        
“I wanna grow up to be Walt Disney. Make a lotta great movies a lotta people wanna see. Simple as that. Buying New York could be very helpful.”
         Katie thought to herself, “This guy’s full of it” and left with a somewhat sweaty handshake.

 

 


 © John Mariani, 2024



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NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR


                                        Fine Sparkling Wines Are More Affordable Than Ever

By John Mariani

 

    Champagne makers always appear as bubbly as their bottlings, but over the last two years they have had to admit that all is not well in Reims and Epernay where Champagne is produced.
    “Champagne is a true barometer of consumer mood,” admits Maxime Toubart, president of the Champagne growers and co-president of the Comté Champagne. “And this is no time for celebration, with inflation conflicts around the world, economic, certainty, and a political wait-and-see attitude in some of champagne’s biggest markets, such as France and the United States of America.”
    Indeed, Champagne sales in 2024 saw a significant decline, with total shipments dropping about 9.2% to around 271.4 million bottles––the second consecutive year of falling volumes. In France sales are down 7.2% to 118.2 million bottles, its lowest level since 1985, while exports are down 10.8% to 153.2 million bottles.
    The principal reasons are those cited by Toubart, but there is another wrinkle in the market: Increased competition in some markets like the UK  and US has shifted towards other sparkling wines like Italian Prosecco, American sparkling wine, English sparkling wine and  France’s own Crémant.
    As ever, when supply exceeds demand, prices come down and competitive products make their push into broad and niche markets. The result is that there are now more than ever a slew of sparkling wines, some of them Champagnes, that are now selling at bargain prices.

Non-vintage Champagnes are always less expensive yet they manifest the house style year after year. Pommery Apanage Brut is a flagship bottling from Maison Pommery, a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Meunier from top crus, aged for six months in chalk cellars. The name "Apanage" signifies a special allocation or prerogative, reflecting this cuvée's dedication to quality and gastronomy within the Pommery range, celebrating their historic crus like the famous Clos Pompadour. Its Blanc de Blancs Apanage is a lighter single varietal, Chardonnay, with lovely floral aroma, while the Blanc de Noirs Apanage has a rich Pinot  Noir and Pinot Meunier with a bit more spice.



Champagne Mandois Blanc de Blancs 2020 ($58)
is the marque’s very first certified organic bottling of  vintage 100% Chardonnay that reveals a terroir whose vines are deeply rooted.  Fermentation and maturation of 70% of the wine is done in stainless steel, 20% in oak and 10% in concrete vats.






Champagne de Saint-Gall is made by the
Union Champagne, with 2,300 growers and winemakers from the Côte des Blancs.  Its De Saint-Gall Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut Champagne ($48) is 100% Chardonnay Champagne and has a delicacy ideal for an apéritif with canapes, while the De Saint-Gall “Le Tradition” Premier Cru Brut Champagne ($46) blends in Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, with a toasty element and autumn fruit.

Albert Bichot Crémant de Bourgogne Brut Rosé ($26) is made from 80% Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Gamay grown in Burgundy’s Cote Chalonnaise and Auxerrois, and it is a very lively rosé sparkler with lovely fruit flavors.

This Life ($25) from Maison Wessman  is another crémant, this one from Limoux in the Pyrenées, made from 57% Chardonnay and 27% Chenin Blanc that adds a fresh spring grass element, as well as 7% Mauza and 9% Pinot Noir. 

J Vineyards Brut Rosé ($50) is made with Pinot Noir from California’s Russian River Valley, which gives it an underpinning and richness and peach-like flavor that makes it a good sparkler to serve with appetizers and seafood.


Rex Hill Grande 2018
($60) is a vintage sparkler made in the méthode champenoise from Oregon’s Willamette Valley, now with eight years of age on it that gives it a fine complexity and shows off Oregon’s viniculture at its best.






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WHICH IS BETTER
THAN REDHEADED KIDS
WITH RED TEETH


"Drive the Pacific Coast Highway south from Los Angeles and you’ll pass plenty of other towns with beach in their name: Venice, Redondo, Manhattan, Hermosa, Huntington and so on. Some are pretty. Others grungy. Some are perfect for raising blond kids with blond teeth. Others offer the ideal place to park the end-of-life RV and await the final sunset. All, though, have a beach, singular."––Chris Haslam, "California's Coolest Surf Town, with artists, eccentrics and 32 beaches," London Times (1/6/26)

 

 





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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             








              

MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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© copyright John Mariani 2025




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