MARIANI’S

Virtual Gourmet


  
JANUARY 19, 2025                                                                                                     NEWSLETTER

 

 



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"Two Layer Cake" By Galina Dargery (2018)

        

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THIS WEEK
    O LITTLE TOWN
OF TUCKAHOE

By John Mariani

NEW YORK CORNER
VIA VAI

By John Mariani


THE MAGDALENE LAUNDRIES
CHAPTER FIFTY-TWO

By John Mariani


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O LITTLE TOWN
OF TUCKAHOE,
WHAT GOOD FOOD YOU HAVE

By John Mariani



Mural of Cinco de Mayo at Burrito Poblano
 


         The variety of restaurants in small towns outside of big cities in America is nothing short of amazing, especially when a town is a village only six-tenths of a square mile, with a population of 7,000 people.  This would be Tuckahoe, New York, 35 minutes from Grand Central Terminal and my home town for the past forty-five years.

Though not as wealthy as Bronxville to the south or Scarsdale to the north, Tuckahoe is solidly upper middle class, and been used in several movies and period TV shows as an exemplary American small town.

         When I moved here good places to eat were few and only fair, catering mostly to a  clientele of Italian-Americans whose parents  once worked the marble quarry that provided the pure white raw material for the Washington  Square Arch, St. Patrick’s Cathedral and the Washington Monument.  The quarry closed in 1930 and the ethnic make-up of the village expanded, so today it is a very  rich mix of race, color and creed from everywhere.

         All that has led to a plethora of restaurants as good as any in Westchester County,  with a brand new, excellent Japanese restaurant named Sushi Ume (28 Columbus Avenue; 914-961-1888), whose sushi and sashimi is definitely a cut above so many other places that use  second-rate fish. Here the species are distinctly flavorful and impeccably fresh. I especially recommend their chawanmusihi of steamed egg with snow crab, shrimp mushrooms and salmon roe; the aji-gari horse mackerel with ginger roll; the colorful bento boxes;  and the elaborate “Tuckahoe roll” of eel, shrimp, cream cheese, avocado, white fish, scallion, spicy mayo and eel sauce. They offer an omekase at the counter for $150 per person.

Even newer is Taco Bahama (64 Main Street; 845-501-8132), a jazzy new idea for modern Mex-Asian tapas and a lively bar, serving unusual tapas and rice bowls like Korean shortribs with yumyum sauce; the “Tack-ahoe “with crispy rock shrimp; the “Baja” with grilled cod and chipotle crema; and pork belly with ponzu sauce and pickled onion. The same owner’s first restaurant in just up the street––Buleria Tapas & Wine Bar (106 Main Street; 914-600-8639), a shadowy, seductive room with its own exotic cocktails and delicious charcuterie, paellas, hot and cold tapas and grilled meats. In addition, right across the street is a charming traditional Mexican restaurant, Burrito Poblano (85 Main Street;  914-337-7900), now 25 years in business, offers sumptuous meals made from first-rate ingredients in dishes like flautas, enchiladas, empanadas and  a terrifically rich queso fundido. Owner  Gilberto Garcia, a native of Pueblo, stocks an array of hard-to-find tequilas and mezcals.

         Ask ten Tuckahoans which of the myriad Italian restaurants serving pizza in the area makes the best and you’ll get ten different  answers. Since I’ve eaten at all of them over many decades, my go-to place preference is for the Italian-American style of Neapolitan pizza served at Villagio’s (66 Main  Street;914-961-3200))––here since 1963––whose pies have the perfect, puffy, chewy crust, a richness of toppings and a well-balanced tomato sauce. There’s also an extensive menu of Italian pastas and meats, and, with only half a dozen tables, it’s really a take-out place. Different but equally as good is Zero Otto Nove (16 Depot Square; 914-337-6941) is a branch of the original on Arthur Avenue in the Bronx and serves a softer Sorrento-style pizza. But chef-owner Roberto Paciullo has a full-scale menu and spreads over two floors, with a gleaming bar up front and well decorated rooms evocative of Sorrento to the rear (left).

         The most exciting Italian restaurant––unique, really––is the small storefront  ODO (72 Main  Street; 913-222-9248), which opened three years ago and is packed every night (left). It only has a few tables and a tiny counter, where owner chef Nickolas Odoardi has poured his heart into his ancestral  Abruzzese cuisine, which includes spuntini bites of house-cured meats and some fabulous scarpetta country bread to top with dried figs and porcini and carpaccio saltimbocca. His pastas are outstanding, from a pistachio pesto to pata alla Norma with stracciatella, fresh tomato and fried eggplant. For a main course go with the lamb shoulder steak with pumpkin and potato or the pork braciola roll with potato gnocchi.

       The village is also home to two beer pubs: One, Growler’s Beer Bistro  (25 Main Street; 914-793-0608) near the train station and located within a former sub-station, features 20 local brews that include those from Peekskill Brewery, Hudson Valley Brewery and Industrial Arts Brewery. The other is the family-owned Broken Bow Brewery (173 Marbledale Road; 913-268-0900), that proclaims that they make every brew in house––the steel beer tanks are right inside the dining room––including Broken Routines Mosaic & Amarillo IPA  and Small Arms Dealer Pilsner. It also prides itself on having a garden where guests’ dogs can scamper about and dine on some nibbles. The food is largely hefty sandwiches and burgers, along with housemade desserts. We also have a darling French pastry shop, Martine’s (10 Fisher Avenue; 914-346-8650) that makes wonderful rainbow-tinted macaroons, fruit tarts, baba and croissants along with an extensive breakfast and lunch menu of items like omelets, French toast and three quiches.

         For two and six-foot hero sandwiches––the “Calabrese” piled high with  mortadella, asiago and marinated eggplant is a whole lot of goodness––and superb, morning-fresh mozzarella’s Pasquale’s Deli  (26 Columbus Ave.; 914-652-7368) is as good as it gets

         These are the best of Tuckahoe’s bunch, but we also have two  Chinese restaurants  take-out eateries, another Mexican restaurant called Rio Bravo and a pretty good Indian restaurant Spice Village, though they can take an awful long time to get it out of the kitchen. Roma’s, which has been in the village longer than I have, is the family favorite in the village for pizza and big portions of Italian fare.

         With all these––along with a yogurt shop catty corner to a Carvel ice cream store––it almost seems there’s not much room left over for houses, train stations––we have two––police and fire stations, post office and churches, but we’ve managed to maintain the feeling of small town charm that has made Tuckahoe attractive for several movie and TV series locations, including The Good Wife, The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel, The Irishman and The Sopranos.  And nobody ever leaves hungry.










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NEW YORK CORNER


 

VIA VAI
31-09 23rd Avenue

Astoria, Queens, NY

347-612-4334


By John Mariani
Photos By Michael Tulipan


         Roman cuisine seems to be having its moment in New York with new trattorias and older restaurants all featuring dishes like cacio e pepe, penne all’amatriciana and spaghetti alla carbonara, made with varying degrees of success and authenticity. Yet for ten years now one of the most exemplary of chefs, Antonio Morichini, has been doing all these dishes and many more from the Roman repertoire with the deft refinement of someone born and bred in the Eternal City.
         He worked at several of Rome’s top ristoranti, including
Il Convivio Troiani,  Roscioli and  Acquolina, then moved to New York to work as executive and corporate chef in various restaurants in Manhattan, Brooklyn, and Westchester. Via Vai opened on a bustling restaurant row of Queens in 2014.

         And because Via Vai is so small––36 seats––he can handle a full house by making everything himself, from fresh pastas through dessert. He’s proud of saying that if he is not in the kitchen Via Vai is not open, so that consistency has been a given for a decade now. His wife Cynthia is also hands-on.

         The daily menu offers all the classic Roman dishes above but adds more daily that are particularly his, like the wonderful branzino that he bakes within a cartoccio of focaccia dough that steams the fish and makes it enormously succulent with oil and lemon.

         The premises are modest, with dark walls hung with black and white photos, a tile floor and a long tufted banquette. The noise level is just fine, and his manager Stella makes everything hum from  picking up the phone to taking orders, popping wine bottles , telling you specials and serving it all up with gusto from start to finish.

Via Vai’s wine list is very solid and well-priced with many under $80 along with a number of beers (no liquor).

         Among the antipasti is a platter ($28) of mortadella, soppressata and a savory rustic pie, as well as an unusual salad called rape rosse ($16) of red beets, arugula, melon, pine nuts and goat’s cheese.

         Morichini makes a very good Margherita-style pizza ($17) with a nice, pliable crust, more Neapolitan than Roman.

         I keep being amazed at how well pasta is now being made in New York restaurants (French examples exempted), and I’d most certainly rank Morichini’s among the very best in terms of delicacy, exemplified by a special of sheer ravioli filled with shrimp ($28; left). His tonnarelli cacio e pepe ($23) is first-rate in the creaminess achieved by careful incorporation of simple ingredients, and if you want a textbook version of bucatini all’Amatriciana ($28), his will serve impeccably. The risotto with full-flavored saffron ($32) had the precise “waviness” of the grains pumped through with chicken broth (which he makes himself).

         We tried the branzino cloaked in the focaccia and it was superb. Other main courses are few, from pork fillet with thinly sliced prosciutto ($28) to large shrimp in a katafi crust with sauteed spinach and a dash of balsamico (($34).

         Desserts have the flavor and supple texture of being homemade: Tiramisù ($13), panna cotta ($10) and gelati ($13).

         Via Vai’s prices are, by comparison  with Manhattan and Brooklyn’s (where pastas are running above $30), modest, and if you‘re driving in, you won’t have to pay that obnoxious new nine-dollar fee you would going south of 60th Street in Manhattan. The subway to take is the N or Q to Ditmars Boulevard. Plus, the restaurant is only a few minutes from LaGuardia, so next time my plane has an inevitable three-hour delay, I know exactly where I’ll be relaxing for a great Italian meal.

 

Open Tues.-Sun. for dinner.

 

 

 


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THE MAGDALENE LAUNDRIES
By  John Mariani





CHAPTER FIFTY-TWO


        

         Katie and David returned in Finger’s car to Garda headquarters, where they gave lengthy statements about what had occurred.  By then the police at the scene of the crime had sent specialists down to the shoreline and found the bodies of two men in the Land Rover. A coroner would later report that both men had broken necks and backs from the fall but that the cause of death was drowning.
         Driver’s license I.D.s gave their names as Frank Doyle and Billy Gallagher, but a check of the Land Rover’s registration showed the SUV had been stolen the day before. 
        
“Our files show both men had criminal records,” said Finger, “mostly robbery, stealin’ cars, but nothin’ like attempted murder. Now I guess we’ll never find out who put them up to it, unless your driver Darby knows.”
         “Did you find him yet?” asked Katie.
         “Within minutes. He was running into the village, but we got him before he made it. His real name is Kevin Kearney and he lives here in Dublin, works as a cabbie and other odd jobs. Says he knew nothin’ whatsoever about the attempt on your life. Says he was just hired to drive you out there, and when he got the phone call on the road, the person told him to drop you off and leave you the car.”
         “So his story about his sick kid was just made up,” said David. “You believe he doesn’t know who hired him?
         “We’ll go over his story a dozen more times, but I suspect whoever planned this job wanted as few people as possible to know about the whole scenario. The two lads dragged out of the Bay were probably just hirees, too. It’s hard for me to believe that if this job was ordered by someone in the clergy that they have their own professional hit men on the payroll.”
Well, you know we’re supposed to leave tomorrow for the States, but if you need us, I guess we can stay on for another couple of days.”
         Katie felt a chill run through her. The two muggings and this attempted murder had increased her anxiety to the point where she wanted to be out of Ireland as soon as possible, lest another attempt be made on her life.
       "If you absolutely need us to stay for just a day or two,” she said, “I’ll do so only under police protection, Max. Your surveillance didn’t work well enough to prevent us from almost being killed today.”
         "Granted. We’ll arrange for you two to stay someplace completely safe as soon as you leave this office, and you’ll have twenty-four hour security.”
         Katie and David agreed to stay for another day or two—“I promise it won’t be more than that,” said Finger—and David added, “And what if someone in this department is part of the plan to eliminate us? He or they could still get to us.”
        "I'
ll make sure the men we choose as security have had nothin’ to do with this case so far. You’re good with that, Michael?”
         Horan nodded and said, “I’ll pick them myself, Inspector, with your help, of course.” He then opened a drawer in his desk and took out the handcuffs David had used on the second mugger, handing them over and saying, “Just in case.”
 


         “I don’t suppose you’d let me carry a service pistol,” said David, already knowing the answer.
         Both H
oran and Finger shook their heads.         

         “Okay,” said Finger, “so let’s get you into your new home for the next couple o’ days.”
         Katie and David left by a rear door and were put into an unmarked car. David knew that there would already be Garda cars stationed along the route to wherever they were going. That turned out to be a two-bedroom apartment in a safe house on the south side of the Liffey, not far from Merrion Park (right). When Finger pulled in front of the building, David noticed two other unmarked cars that were clearly security men parked at either end of the street. Upon entering the building the Americans were greeted by a plainclothesman who would be on an eight-hour shift, one of three throughout the next two days. He said the Americans could order pretty much anything they wanted to eat and drink and it would be brought to the apartment.
         The rooms, which overlooked the street, were sparse but not uncomfortable—a kitchenette with eating space, a living room with a couch, coffee table and TV and two bedrooms with queen-size beds. David noticed immediately that the windows, which had heavy curtains, had double panes of bullet-proof glass.
         “This works for us,” he said. “Katie and I will have plenty of time to go over every detail of the case. So, Max, you’ll come to us if you need information?”
         Finger nodded and said, “I don’t think we’ll be botherin’ you too much. And with those two blokes dead in the water, I doubt very much you’ll be needin’ to come back to Dublin to testify against Darby or whatever his name is.”
          Everyone shook hands, Finger left and David said, “I’m suddenly starving.”
er out for a proper curry and a pint?” asked Katie with a put-on brogue.
         “Bonny idea!” said David. “Do they say that in Ireland?”
         “I haven’t heard anyone say it here. I think you’d better save it for Scotland.”

 

 

                                                                                        *            *            *

 

         While eating the curry and drinking Irish beers, Katie and David went over the day’s events.
         “I’m still trying to figure out if whoever it was who sent those goons after us knew we were leaving Dublin tomorrow or not,” said David. “because that’s what they wanted us to do all along. But the drastic measures they took today seem all out of proportion to an attempt to get us on a plane.”
         “Hey, I didn’t think trying to slice my face up was just a friendly urging,” said Katie. “The thing is, if they didn’t know we had the files, then it seemed they just wanted to make sure we left the country so we wouldn’t get any closer to the Network. And if they had found out we had the files they had to assume we were smart enough to have made copies.”
         “Yeah, but if they had found out,  it was because someone in the Garda offices told them. And if they did, killing us off might serve to keep those files hidden away at police headquarters as well as prevent you from going back home and blowing the lid off the whole operation.”
         “Jesus, then does that mean they might try to kill us when we get back to the States?”
         David did not want to say he thought the killers would probably only be interested in Katie, not him, once back in the States.
         “Anything’s possible, but if you can start writing a first draft, even if it’s incomplete, about what you’ve found out and been through, you can get it to Alan Dobell as soon as we land. You’ve got the next two days and, what?, eight hours on the plane back? Once you write the story, there’s nothing more anyone can do. Plus, hey, gangsters don’t usually kill reporters in the States.”
        "I hope you're right  but I’m not so sure about these renegade priests and their network. They’ve got a whole lot to lose.”
        "You have their names in the files, Alan has them, the police have them, and so does Owen Dugan, maybe Liddy. The Network has its back to the wall and are probably scared shitless at this point.”
            "So you think I need to dig deeper into this whole cesspool?”
         “I do, Katie. I think Max is going to the mat for us and that Horan’s turned a corner.  The intimidation went too far for him to stand aside. Still, he’s got his superiors and the Church hovering above him. Hard to say how far he and Max will get. Want another beer?”
         “No, I better get to work on that first draft.”






©
John Mariani, 2018



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BLOCK THAT SIMILE!

"If I were to make a list, in the manner of the medieval Japanese writer Sei Shonagon, of 'Things That Make One’s Heart Beat Faster' — like a hint of cloud inside a mirror or raindrops chiming against the shutters — cabbage would not be top of mind." –– Ligaya Mishan, NY Times (1/25).

 





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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             








              

MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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