MARIANI’S Virtual
Gourmet
ARCHIVE Pete Hansen, Gertrude Berg and Arlene McQuade in "The Goldbergs" (1951). HAPPY MOTHER'S DAY!
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THIS WEEK PECK OF MILAN By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER TORCELLO RISTORANTE ITALIANO By John Mariani THE MAGDALENE LAUNDRIES CHAPTER NINETEEN By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR SHOWCASE CALIFORNIA CABERNETS WORTH THE BIG BUCKS By John Mariani ❖❖❖
PECK OF MILAN By John Mariani If you’ve
been to Harrods in London,
Fauchon in Paris and KaDeWe in Berlin but
not Peck in Milan, you have missed
one of the grandest food and wine stores in
the world. Located near the Duomo
cathedral, Peck covers three floors and
3,300 square feet, with a wine cellar
stocking 3,500 selections, a “Casa del
Formaggio” offering more than 250 dairy
products, a butcher with the finest
veal and Val di Chiana beef, meats cured
specially by Peck, prepared gourmet
foods, dozens of olive oils, a daunting
array of prosciutto and salami, and a
rotisserie section cooking up suckling pig,
baby lamb and pheasant, with 200
wines offered by the glass. Weekly menus
debut every Thursday. Most of the
items they sell are branded by Peck. ❖❖❖
NEW YORK CORNER TORCELLO
RISTORANTE ITALIANO
2382 Boston Post Road Larchmont NY 914-833-1118 By John
Mariani
Larchmont is
one of those suburban Gold
Coast towns in Westchester County that was an
easy-to-reach summer resort town
for wealthy New Yorkers who built mansions you
can still see amidst the wooded
areas along the Long Island Sound. It has been
home to dramatists Edward Albee
and Moss Hart, film director Ang Lee and
comedian Joan Rivers, and an episode
of “Succession” was filmed in the village’s St.
John’s Episcopal Church. Open for dinner nightly. ❖❖❖
THE MAGDALENE LAUNDRIES By John Mariani CHAPTER NINETEEN
Katie and
David turned to see an
old cleric walking slowly towards them,
slightly stooped, his hands folded
behind the back of his black cassock. His face
and neck were wrinkled, his hair
white, his eyes behind thick spectacles.
*
*
*
When Katie came down to
breakfast in the hotel dining room, David was
already there, looking very grim. © John Mariani, 2018 ❖❖❖ A CHEESE PRESERVER
❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
SHOWCASE CALIFORNIA CABERNETS WORTH THE BIG BUCKS By John Mariani FLORA SPRINGS FLORA’S
LEGACY 2016 ($215). Third-generation
family member
Nat Komes pays homage to his grandmother Flora
Komes, inspiration for Flora
Springs, who was born in Hawaii and
descended from Hawaiian royalty. The 2016
vintage crafted by winemaker
Paul Steineuer combines lots from the producer’s
Oakville, Rutherford and St.
Helena estate vineyards to produce a big bodied
Cab rich in dark fruit and
spice, with its tannins softening, but they could
use more time in the bottle.
It is 100% Cab, aged for 19 months in both French
and American barrels, with
just 320 cases produced, so only three bottles per
consumer may be purchased on
the winery’s website. DOMAINE
CURRY FOUNDERS
BLEND 2021 ($80). This is
the first vintage as part
of The Prisoner Wine Company Portfolio, co-founded
by Ayesha Curry and Sydel Curry Lee. The
inspiration for Domaine Curry occurred over a 2015
dinner with a toast to the
family’s women and the Bible’s Proverbs 31 about
women of “noble character.”
The vintage is composed of Cabernet Sauvignon,
Petit Verdot, Merlot, and
Cabernet Franc. After delivery of the grapes to
the winery, they were given a
short cold soak and inoculated with yeast, then
put into 100% new oak. The
alcohol level is a bold 15.2%
FREEMARK
ABBEY
SYCAMORE VINEYARD 2018 ($200). The price gets into
the higher elevations
of California Cabs, and you may have to wait for it
fully to mature (the winery
says it will be good for 20-30 years). The 24-acre
Sycamore Vineyard is near the
Mayacamas Mountains, rich in loam, and
the wine has the flavor of what they call
“Rutherford dust” in the
tannins—reminiscent of the massive Cabs made back in
the 1980s in Napa. DALLE
VALLE
2020 ($250). A fine intensity and lovely aromatics
are the hallmarks of Dalle
Valle Cabs, this one from 78% Cabernet Sauvignon,
21% Cabernet Franc and 1%
Petit Verdot. This has long been the estate’s
flagship wine. There was an early
harvest in 2020, and the terroir’s composition of
iron from volcanic soils
provides a backbone and steeliness, so winemaker
Maya Dalla Valle says that
peak drinking is for the next 10 to 15 years. ELEVEN:ELEVEN
XI 2020
($90). This proprietary Cab is their third vintage
sourced from 11:11 & Destin Vineyards in the
Oak Knoll District of Napa
Valley. It’s a huge 100% Cab at 15.1% alcohol,
aged for 22 months in 100%
French oak and 80% new oak, which provides a
caramel edge. Though the plantings
themselves are not old, this shows
what can be achieved in a very few years to
develop a deep, dark flavor profile
with remarkable nuance. PAUL
HOBBS COOMBSVILLE
2018 ($120). Paul Hobbs winery makes a good point
when they say, “When it
comes to Napa Cabernet, the wines are often
consumed while they are still young. But the best
examples can develop
additional complexity in the cellar, revealing
more nuance and supple tannins.
Finding top aged Cabernet is not always easy
though.” The fact that Paul
Hobbs’s Coombsville 2018 is now into its sixth
year makes it eminently
drinkable now and for years to come. The 2018 was
the first release to carry the
Coombsville appellation from one of Napa’s coolest
climates, near San Pablo
Bay, and it is a blend from Nathan Coombs Estate
and Flat Rock, aged for 20
months in 69 percent new French oak. QUILT 2018
RESERVE ($110). After harvest and fermentation, the
wine was tasted
progressively and only the very best two percent was
set aside for the Reserve,
which underwent further aging in new French oak.
This allowed for elements of
fruit, tannin and acidity to knit and for the oak to
tame down and provide a
pleasing sweet element of richness. The name Quilt
comes from the fact that its
vineyards are a patchwork from which the grapes are
chosen and blended by
winemaker Joe Wagner. They also make a 2021 vintage
for $55.
SULLIVAN
RUTHERFORD COEUR
DE VIGNE 2021 ($100). The name means "Heart of
the Vine," because the Sullivan estate is located in the
"heart" of Napa Valley.
Winemaker Jeff Cole blended 80% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot
in a classic Bordeaux style. A small vintage
coming from a mild
summer—yields were reduced by 30%—it was
nevertheless of very high quality, with 2,600
cases made. The structure is
multi-dimensional, still a bit tannic but
yielding, and will be excellent this
fall for the heartiest of dishes. Twenty months of
aging in new French oak
gives it ballast and a reasonable 14.8% alcohol. ❖❖❖ ADVENTURES IN FOOD WRITING: CHEESE DIVISION Write-ups in Gambero Rosso: Falerio Pecorino
Onirocep 2016 - Pantaleone
What
momentum! The vintage exalts a profile played on
significant acidity tension on which it builds a
register of spices and flowers. It has citrusy grit
and a tense and savory palate, it is not even
halfway through its evolutionary journey.
Impressive. Offida Pecorino
2013 - De Angelis
Rich, full,
muscular. Notes of dried fruit, peach, and toasted
almond anticipate a creamy and well-stretched
palate, fat and satisfying. It manages to find an
unexpected liveliness, with a very inviting soft
fruit. Perfect with well-spiced white meats. Offida Pecorino Io
sono Gaia non sono Lucrezia 2012 - Le Caniette
Gaia loves
spices: white pepper, camphor, even ginger. Then
come the medicinal herbs, the menthol note, and a
mouth that changes abruptly. It leaves behind
linearity, ignites and restarts, with a complex and
deep articulation. ❖❖❖ Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured favorite. The story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish.
Contributing
Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical
Advisor: Gerry
McLoughlin. If you wish to subscribe to this
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